That batt. are 100% full but LCD shows low batt. when start invertion
I connect the ups to 4 lead acid cells . each 150 amp 12V and the output. one to house ground other to main hose changeover "changes between UPS and regular power ,without interference" and at the mid way a fuse with 6 amp so it will cut power from UPS if exceed limit
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Hi, Roy before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing or printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Electric Starter Battery Problems on Pulsar 150 Help NeededHow to diagnose and repair motorcycle charging problems Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTSi Workshop Manual Shop At Bajaj Pulsar 150 Classic Bike Parts And Accessories Online Store... Bajaj Pulsar 150 Maintenance Manual
Hi, I bought a new Black & Decker one of these and when I got it home and charged it, it acted the same way. I assume it has an internal battery. These gel-cell spill-proof lead acid batteries will dry out and one cell will loose power for a load, but will indicate "full". 99% of these batteries have replacements available on line under S L A (spill-proof lead acid) batteries, or if you have a friend with a WW GRAINGER account, they stock them.
Sounds like a battery problem.
Lead acid batteries should to be charged every 3 or 4 months even if they are not being used, or they can slowly self-discharge and will start to deteriorate if the voltage drops below about 12.2v (for a 12v batt.)
They can then be difficult or impossible to charge. The charger can see this as fully charged and show green.
You can test for this if you have a voltmeter. You should be able to work out if it's the battery or a connection (or the charger).
Measure the battery voltage (use a DC voltage range greater than 12V). The normal voltages you should see:
A) Key off, no charger: >12v, <14
B) Key off, charger connected: >12, <14.2, but higher than A)
C) Key on, no charger: >12, <14, but lower than A)
If voltage A) is low and immediately goes high when the charger is connected then the battery needs replacing.
If A) and B) are exactly the same then it could be the charger is not connecting or is faulty. Measure the charger output, should be >13.8v (unless it's an "intelligent" charger in which case it might need some voltage applied to its output before it starts charging).
Note: If A) and B) are low, say <8v it's possible that an "intelligent" charger will refuse to start charging. In this case it's probably worth jumping the battery to a good 12v battery (e.g. car). Be very careful to connect the batteries (+) to (+) and (-) to (-). Leave connected for 10 - 20min or even overnight and then disconnect jumper leads and check A) and B) again. Sometimes a battery can be recovered by this method (it's unlikely to regain full capacity though).
The 14 amps you read is the alternator output. The battery should show 12V at full charge, you can
have a batt. load test and specific gravity test done at sears-walmart or any of the chain parts stores autozone etc. for free. Your problem sounds more like a bad connection, clean the battery
terminal connections first before buying any parts, and if you happen by walmart or an autozone
stop in and have the battery tested, can't hurt this time of year. Hope this helps.
What does the inverter over 600 Watt.
By what type of battery is the inverter supplied? How many Ah? What is its state?
In order to achieve 1000 Watt for 1 hour you need a fully charged 12 V / 100 Ah lead-acid battery. If your battery is less then 100 Ah and is not very well charged or old (bad) you may not have over 600 W, but not bacause of the inverter, but the battery.
If your inverter stops due to low input voltage (you can see it in the digital display during operation).
If you want to check the real output power of the inverter you should connect it to a big (more than 200 Ah) well charged battery.
You may be able to do this but it may NOT charge the external battery, you will have to see.... Anyway simply connect the battery up to the inside terminals Red- Red Black - Black.. with suitable wire & fittings make sure you have no shorts etc. ya good to go.