Question about Washing Machines
Rinse not working, no water comes out. just cleaned filter as cold water was trickling in during wash cycle, so now water coming into wash cycle fine, but now rinse isn't working. if click to spin, works fine, back to wash works fine, but hangs up at rinse - no water comes out
When the washer goes into rinse cycle it only uses cold water so clothes don't rinkle,so most likey you have a problem with your cold water,do this,shut down the water to the washer,remove the water lines from the back of washer and mark them so you know how they came off,stick the hoses into the washer if they reach or a bucket,turn on the cold water to see if water is coming out of hose,if water does come out of hose good then stick the cold water hose back on the washer and run it only on cold,if it doesn't fill then you know you have a problem with the water valve on the washer and it's not the house water valve that's bad,and usually if you have a problem with the washer water valve it will just hum and no water will enter the washer so if you hear a humming sound it will be the water valve.tried looking up the model number you sent but it doesn't come up on the parts lookup
Posted on Apr 25, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You write that the water flows fine during the wash cycle; if you mean while the machine is washing, then it is the pump making the water flow.
You need to watch the water flow while filling for any cycle since it could be slow filling and not running.
Since the same valve(s) control the water intake during washing and rinsing, what you describe doesn't make sense. I suggest your remove both ends of both hoses and inspect them and the mating connectors on the machine for clogged screens.
If these are clear of any sediment, then the flow control valve is failing. This is located on the rear of the machine and the screw connections for your hoses are part of the valve body. This assembly is pretty easy to remove and replace, is a common and not very expensive failure.
If you are in the US, check to see if you have a Johnstone Supply in your area. They sell mostly wholesale to tradesmen but have never turned a private sale away and are far less expensive than dealers with pricing ranging from 30-50% of dealer price.
Posted on Oct 12, 2008
It sounds like you have some buildup in the cold water valve screen. Where the hose connects to the washer there should be a screen inside the valve. Remove the cold water hose from the washer and clear any debri on the valve screen.
If this doesn't fix the slow cold water flow then you will have to replace the whole water valve assembly. The water valve is the piece that the hoses connect too and supply water to the washer.
If you have anymore questions about this please ask. I will be more than happy to help you out.
Posted on Jan 12, 2009
When the washer initially fills for the wash, is it only hot water entering the drum? Try switching the water temperature between hot and cold as it fills. If any of them show little or no water getting through, it sounds too easy but check to make sure water supply taps are on, and that the cold/hot fill hoses aren't reversed. Remove the fill hoses and check any of the screen filters for blockage (in the hoses and in the inlet water valve). When the machine stops and waits to fill but all you hear is a hum, it sounds like there is power going to the valve but water is not able to get through it.
Posted on Mar 03, 2009
Sounds like cold water solenoid is not opening all the way, its easy to replace, and is found inside the wash machine where the hose connects
Posted on Apr 25, 2009
If your washer is overfilling, check these:
Water-inlet valve A defect in the water-inlet valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it. If this occurs, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. In time, the water may accumulate substantially. If this happens, you need to replace the valve.
Water-level switch A defect--or an obstruction--in the water-level switch may mean that it can't tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch senses the water level in the clothes tub. It's usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level switch.
It's underfilling The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.
The water temperature is incorrect The temperature of the incoming water determines the temperature of the water in your washer. You get either hot, cold, or a mix of the hot and cold water that's currently available to the machine. So if the cold water that enters the machine is very cold--or if the hot water entering the machine is very hot--the warm water is affected.
If you live in a Northern climate, unless you adjust the hot and cold water taps that supply water to your washer, the warm water supplied to your washer is usually hotter during the summer months and colder during the winter months.
Posted on May 08, 2009
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