Our Bosch Silence Plus 50 dBA shuts off and turns back on by itself.
Often it gets stuck with one minute left. We've tried adjusting the balancing. The only thing that works it to give it a hard shove closed. I'm ready to throw it out. Please help!
I have to push it in so that it starts again. No need to open it, just give it a hard shove and it restarts.I have to push it in so that it starts again. No need to open it, just give it a hard shove and it restarts.
so I am assuming (I am not at home to check right now) that this switch can be tightened with a screwdriver? Do you know how to tighten it?so I am assuming (I am not at home to check right now) that this switch can be tightened with a screwdriver? Do you know how to tighten it?
It might not be loose, it might be bad. Judging from the parts availability for that machine. That switch is a common failure. You have to back order it. Not that expensive though. However that machine has a 5 year warranty! Can you make a claim for free or is it too old?It might not be loose, it might be bad. Judging from the parts availability for that machine. That switch is a common failure. You have to back order it. Not that expensive though. However that machine has a 5 year warranty! Can you make a claim for free or is it too old?
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I believe this is a filling or water flow error. Make sure all the plumbing stuff is OK look at the valve under the sink that feeds the dishwasher. make sure it has not gotten turned off. Sometimes with hot water and cold also a chunk of crud will break off somewhere and get lodged blocking or restricting the flow. You may also have a filter somewhere on the DW to prevent junk from getting in. If there is a piece of crud a likely spot for it to be is at the valve connection under the sink where the DW hose connects to the hot water line. You can try unhooking the DW supply hose from the shut off(turn the shut off OFF first) and seeing if there is any junk in it. Shake the hose about 8" back from the end to try and send any junk in it flying across the kitchen. Also open the valve a bit with a bowl under it to blast any junk out. also see if it seems like a decent amount of water comes out to rule out any upstream plumbing issues.
The SHU4326 and 4326 models use "Regular Wash" and "Rinse Hold" to begin the test while the other three series in this section use "Scrub Wash" and "Delicate/Econo," but all use the same set of fault codes, shown not as lights but as numbers on the Cycle Countdown display. Here, 1 is an aqua sensor fault, 2 is a heating fault, 4 is a filling fault, 8 is an NTC fault and 0 means that everything is working as it ought. During an actual wash, when you aren't testing, the Cycle Countdown display may show the letter "F," which also signifies a filling fault.
You've done the required first-step troubleshooting and maintenance. If thermal cutout keeps tripping, and unit is actually reaching 185, then something is wrong with wiring, temperature sensor, gas valve, or PC board. Or combination of factors. Call service technician, and open following link for some Bosch tankless resources including Bosch contact information: http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Bosch-Tankless-water-heater.html
The problem with all that type of water heater is that once the hot tap is turned on sufficient flow must be maintained through the water heater to keep the main gas burner alight. If the heat adjuster is turned up to high, then the person using the hot water will turn it down to a low rate which means the main burner will turn off and result in cold water. Try setting the heat control to the lowest setting that still gives hot enough water. If you have a thermometer adjust control for a temperature of around 50 to 55 degrees Celcius. You may have to fiddle with fine adjustments to get the temperature and flow rates to maintain a constant output of hot water. You may still have intermittent problems. If the heater only supplies baths or showers you could set the temperatuer even lower (45 to 50) to ensure that the hot tap is used more than the cold which will maintain flow and therefore heat.
Not sure but check the inlet water at the heater, the filter may be clog up a little that restrict the flow. Did u use the heater at all during the winter? If not, the heat exchanger may be clogged with built up in there. U need to descale it. Good luck. Chinhcu
One of the problems with these has been that you must be using at least 1/2 gallon per minute for the burners to ignite. In the summer when the incoming water is already warm, we tend to not use enough hot water to keep it lit. Try turning on the hot water faucet in the sink and 'wasting' some hot water during the shower. If that fixes the problem you can find some other adjustments on the Aquastar website to help lower the temp some.
I have to push it in so that it starts again. No need to open it, just give it a hard shove and it restarts.
There is a switch on the door that this loose.
so I am assuming (I am not at home to check right now) that this switch can be tightened with a screwdriver? Do you know how to tighten it?
It might not be loose, it might be bad. Judging from the parts availability for that machine. That switch is a common failure. You have to back order it. Not that expensive though. However that machine has a 5 year warranty! Can you make a claim for free or is it too old?
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