Question about Microwave Ovens

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Is a service manual available?

Lights but no fans and no microwave. Convection/broiler not known if they work now. May need to replace the power supply cap after all that time. Model MQ 8797 made in 1988 USA.

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  • Microwave Ovens Master
  • 9,085 Answers

I would check door switches first. That's any easy fix. See my help file here.
The service manual reprint would be either SM-MQ8797BW or SM-MQ8797BH. They may be close enough to troubleshoot electrical trouble, with the only real difference being trim or color, etc.
You can order Quasar parts from Encompass here or you can call them toll-free at 866-779-5835.

Posted on May 04, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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MicrowaveSvc
  • 9085 Answers

SOURCE: sanyo microwave EM-S1065S stopped working completely

Does the inside light come on when the door is opened?

If not, then I'd say the internal fuse or thermal cutout / thermostat has failed.

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Jun 08, 2008

  • 25 Answers

SOURCE: Daewoo WM1010CC convection/ microwave combo unit issues

Likely takes a torx wrench or some other special star tool to open it.

Could be a bad relay a bad mag tube or a bad timmer or a bad door switch. Needs to be trouble shooted. You have to get it open and check the fuses and test the voltage on the pri transformer first.


Posted on Jan 14, 2009

MicrowaveSvc
  • 9085 Answers

SOURCE: have a Whirlpool microwave oven, model MH3185XP. Just stopped wor

In some Whirlpool models, there are more than one fuse, and two or more thermal devices which can interrupt power to the oven.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.


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At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you don't find yours, or if you want to look at it without disassembling the oven, you can download it here.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

Please write back with more details if you need further help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Mar 02, 2009

MicrowaveSvc
  • 9085 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Advantium 120, model # 363.63693301,

You probably just have a bad primary interlock (upper door switch) or its mount is loose or broken.

Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

If the switch mount is broken, it's usually more economical and safer to add a dab or two of hot glue to the mount to secure the switch. Let it cool for about 30 minutes before using.

We have the service / repair manual for this model and have uploaded it to our site here to help you.

It will give you safety info, step by step help in disassembly, troubleshooting tips, and part numbers.

Most computers will open this document automatically, but you may need the free Adobe Reader.

For more on door switches & mounts, see:
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/doorsw.txt

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

If a switch is all you need, we offer a universal type for only $5 postpaid which you can order here.

But if you need any cosmetic parts,
enter your full model number at the Sears parts site.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Jul 13, 2009

MicrowaveSvc
  • 9085 Answers

SOURCE: I need a manual for Sharp Microwave/ Convection R7A85

You can download that here free.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Aug 30, 2009

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1 Answer

I have a GE Advantium Microwave Model # SCA1000HWW, where the lights stays on, the fan is on and the turn table is spinning when you shut the door.


Main relay RY1 on your main PCB is shorted.

You can order a new board (part number WB27X10776) for $167.20 from the Pros here. They're our favorite supplier.

Or we can repair your circuit board with our $39.95 service.

The service manual will help you with disassembly. It's here.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

Feel free to contact me directly if you need further help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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The service manual with installation instructions is here:
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/advantium_sca1000_sca1001_sm.pdf

You may have an open hood TCO (aka thermal cutout / thermostat). It should read normally zero ohms when measured.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

But if you recently had trouble with your cooktop lights, the control circuit board may be damaged.

We regularly repair these control units for customers nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid with a one-year guarantee.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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Built-in Sharp Carousel II Microwave Convection Oven died.


There are a couple of safety thermostats in the oven to shut down power if something overheats. One is on the magnetron tube (the microwave source), the other is on the cooking cavity. These sometimes go bad. There's also a power line fuse that may have failed, or become loose in its mounting clips. These can be tested with an ohmmeter; they should all measure very close to zero ohms if they're good.

Another possibility is that the control circuit board in the oven may have failed. I have worked on several Sharp ovens where the power transformer for the board has gone bad for no good reason. If the board goes bad the oven may appear to be dead as well.

Microwave servicing is best left to professionals. If you're thinking of keeping this one, take it to a service shop (or call for home service) and get an estimate. Then decide whether to repair or replace.

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Okay I'm familiar with that model.

We see (and repair) this a lot. The problem is on the control panel, which we regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week.

At our Web site, you can get details of our service, plus we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller.

Sometimes this will also affect the exhaust fan operation, too. The lights and fan can be inoperable or stuck on too.

Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your full model number) for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
prototech@usa.net
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

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