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Fuse?

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My rear wiper, defroster and licence plate lights stopped working on my 2007 suzuki swift but when I open the rear hatch the licence plate lights come on . Any ideas what's wrong?bad ground?


[PDF]Wiring Diagram.pdf - Ken Gilbert

ken-gilbert.com/wrx/mans/99.../Wiring%20Diagram.pdf
Each connector number shown in the wiring dia- ... Rear defogger cord (Ground). Fuel tank cord,. Roof cord, ... circuit. Then check the switch, relay, fuse, ground, etc. 4. .....Rear wiper motor. Rear wiper ... License plate light RH. Tail light LH.

#? license plate light - Circuit Wiring Diagrams

circuitswiring.com/tag/license-plate-light/
2008 Volkswagen Newbeetle Main Fuse Box Diagram 2008 Volkswagen Newbeetle ...Parts: rear window defogger, shift lock, battery positive voltage, interior light, A/C clutch, ... brake light, daytime driving light, wiper and washer system, vacan, fuel pump, central ... 1997 Suzuki Geo Tracker Left Dash Fuse Box Diagram.

#? license plate light - Circuit Wiring Diagrams - Page 3

circuitswiring.com/tag/license-plate-light/page/3/
Audi A4 Engine Fuse Box Diagram Audi A4 Engine Fuse Box Map Fuse Panel ... mirror control, wiper, washer, horn, brake light, cruise control, heated rear window, ... 2003Suzuki Aerio Dash Fuse Box Diagram 2003 Suzuki Aerio Dash Fuse Box ... rear defroster, fuel injection controller, radio, A/T controller, hazard light, ...

Jan 05, 2016 | Suzuki Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2005 ford focus zx4 fuze diagram/ fuze diagram


No fuse? Or no slots? If 53 has little metal terminals inside the slots to accept a fuse, then fuse it! Someone pulled it out and put it into 52. If there was a previous owner who blew his heated seat fuse, maybe he traded his back-up lights for a cozy heated seat!
If, however, #53 has nothing there, like just an empty place of the fuse box-not wired, then indeed, strange. Is that the owner's manual you referred to? That should be accurate, if it's the owner's manual. Look closely at that #53
Good luck..

Jun 27, 2012 | 2005 Ford Focus ZX4

1 Answer

On a 1988 Mercury Grand M. I have a fuse on the fuse panel that is a 30 amp metal covered fuse. It is about 1/4 inch thick by about 1" by 1/2 inch it is located on the top of the panel. I have no fuse...


You may find the diagram on the link in a forum who's address is listed below:

http://www.fordforums.com/f102/fuse-chart-1988-grand-marquis-160848/

Please check if you can access it. As for the heating problem you will have to inspect the socket for corrosion or loose parts. You may also have to trace the wire for wiring issue. Other than that you may need to check the components using the fuse to check if it is overloaded. It may be weakening or assembly connected to it may be bad or is simply overworked.

Sep 14, 2011 | Mercury Grand Marquis Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Kenmore 500 series gas dryer has no heat and no glow. Thermostat fuse has continuity. Replaced ignitor and coils. bypassed flame sensor and still have the same problem.


Hello,

Having checked or replaced what you have thus far here a few things still to check

Cycling thermostat in blower housing,in addition to thermal fuse it must have continuty to be good

Timer check wiring diagram in control panel and check for continuty that are supposed to be closed when set to a normal heat cycle

Motor switch heat circuit check again with wiring diagram and see which wires on motor switch must be closed when running so dryer will heat.This a built curcuit asurring the dryer will never heat when motor is off

If your model has it check heat relay in control panel for continuty on heating circuit for relay(not the circuit that closes relay)

as far as power to the ignitor the hot side comes from timer to and through the thermal fuse and cycling t-stat, to ignitor.the neutral comes from neutral wire on cord to and through motor when motor is running and motor switch is closed

so on ignotor plug check hot wire to ground(not neutral) if has 120 vac to it timer/t. fuse/ cycling t-stat and flame switch are all good and its the motor switch is the problem.The motor switch can not replaced seperatly and must replace entire motor

Gene

Aug 09, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

My dryer is no longer heating up and it does not time out, what parts would i need to fix the problems?


Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug
Whirlpool style dryer - no heat problems:

Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Feb 27, 2010 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer is not heating up electric dryer vent is clean and lint trap is clean no heat at all just cool air


First make sure the heat setting is set for heat. If you dryer is connected to a fuse panel, Check to make sure that BOTH 30 amp fuses are good. If both fuses are good (check with a multi meter not just visual) you will have to check the electrical circuite for the heating system. I'm not really sure what make or model you have so if its a Inglis,Roper,Kenmore or Whirlpool you will have to remove the rear panel and first visually check all the wires to make sure non are burnt off, If wireing looks ok check the resistance of the element and all the thermostats to make sure the complete the curcuite. On some models there is a thermal fuse (white plastic with 2 wires going to it) attached to the heating box, make sure the circuite through the thermal fuse is closed. If everything checks out ok you may have to take the panel off behind the timer and selector switch and inspect the wireing there. If you check the wireing diagram you can see what switched are sopose to close when you select different temperatures and check the switches in the timer and selector switch.
If you check everything on the wireing diagram you will be sure to locate where the problem exists.

Jan 09, 2010 | Dryers

2 Answers

My kenmore electric dryer is not heating I checked the heating coil and it seems ok could it be one of the thermostats?


Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.


Jul 11, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My whirl pool dryer does not dry?


coil never gets power usually a sign that you have a blown thermal fuse , small white 2in' fuse located behind rear panel, there should be a wire diagram behind the console, few screws acrosss the back

Oct 30, 2008 | Dryers

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