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Troy Bilt TB25CS New, but old, won't start

I inherited a TB25CS that seems to never been used. There are still tags on the shaft, tape on the string to hold it in place, and I'm told it was just started once, but was too heavy for its previous owner. The S/N indicates is from 2004, so if there was any gas in it, its all gummed up. So far, I've replaced the plug, replaced the fuel lines, removed and drowned the carb with cleaner, tried quick start spray, put new gas/oil mix with stabil, and while it pulls fine, it doesn't want to start. I'd like to test the plug for spark, but nearly everything close by is plastic and not sure how i'd secure the plug to metal and pull the cord at the same time. fuel is flowing fine. i'm also suspicious of the instructions to prime it 10 times...seems like way too much fuel, but who knows. these models have a switch that stays in the on position unless you press it to off to shut down, but then it springs back to on. could switch be faulty? Help!

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 279 Answers

SOURCE: Will cleaning my Troy-Bilt TB25CS carburetor heal it?

Since the air from the air filter does not go through the carb, the carb cleaner will not either. If you remove the carb and spry all of it that you can get to, you may get the plug. If you were to open the carb and go through it and clean it you would need to get new gaskets and maybe that will do the job. You may be able to adjust the carb. There is a "hi" and "low" setting. Try adjusting the "hi"...Lee

Posted on Aug 24, 2009

Testimonial: "Thank you for getting me started! Hope I can get a little more info on the process! "

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  • 10865 Answers

SOURCE: Troy-Bilt TB70SS will not start

Hi. Go to any auto parts store and get a can of starter fluid. Have a helper squirt a little into the air cleaner while u start it up. Then continue to squirt the starter fluid to keep it running until the engine sounds good again. J.

Posted on Jul 07, 2010

hunter19_46m
  • 7482 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Troy-Bilt string

Hi rskeller...

Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your carburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
NOTE: Before you dissemble the carburetor:
Make sure you mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you dissemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Also check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting fire at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and pulling the crank rope, if you are getting spark then:
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Also make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the mower/weedeater is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
Sounds like you will need to clean the carburetor or replace your carburetor internal rubber parts like the diaphgram and O rings.
I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use compressed air to blow out all the fuel and air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Once you have your carburetor rebuilt that should solve your problem.
This is a FREE answer,Please take time to rate me

Posted on Jun 25, 2011

rycgl
  • 1545 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2 cycle Troy-Bilt TB90BC line trimmer.

One of three things is occuring here. The IDLE SPEED SCREW (Phillips head) on the throttle plate is screwed in way too far. The L and H mixture screws are open way too much allowing the carb to use excessive fuel, even on startup. Those 2 screws may need adjusting. The metering lever in your carb is not adjusted flush with the carb body flange and is holding the gas needle open constantly. Check these things and post back.

Posted on Sep 09, 2011

rycgl
  • 1545 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2 cycle Troy-Bilt line trimmer. I've had

Sometimes, unfortunately, the chemicals and solvents used in a "dip" and/or cleaning solution are too harsh. They tend to "swell" the very sensitive check valves inside the carb. The idle fuel circuit has one, the high speed main nozzle has one, and there are one or two inside the primer pase assembly on top of the carb. You state that it won't idle, but does it run otherwise. If it does, some carb adjustments may be required on the L and H screws to get it to idle.

Posted on Sep 09, 2011

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Since the air from the air filter does not go through the carb, the carb cleaner will not either. If you remove the carb and spry all of it that you can get to, you may get the plug. If you were to open the carb and go through it and clean it you would need to get new gaskets and maybe that will do the job. You may be able to adjust the carb. There is a "hi" and "low" setting. Try adjusting the "hi"...Lee

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