JBL PRX18s Fuse Replacement

Hi,
Wanted to clarify , if the you plug in a headphone are you are able to get the sound from them . If yes than , you might need to check the connection on the speakers. If the headphones are also not working through the audio jack . You would have to check the following

1. Check if there is any external damage to the audio jacks both on the MAC and the JBL connector
2. Check if the sound properties on the MAC are configured correctly
3. Check if the sound card drivers are installed correctly.


Thanks for using fixya
Proton

The location of the fuses are in a diagram in the owners manual.Should also be under/on the fuse block cover.There might be a AC relay fuse under the hood

Hello
its power supply section has failed. you have to look into it for further trouble. Replacing fuse or line chord won't give you any result. you have to check wit whether the transformer faulure has occured or not. If it is fitted with a mains transformer, it will have a thermal fuse in it imbeded in between its primary and secondary windings placed inside the transformer and can be accessable if it is taken out. It is meant for to block the transformer woring, if it does overheats due to long run at high volume. Check from this and proceed. you must have a sound knoledge in electroncis and have a concept of soldering to do this work. OK.

Service manuals: http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Service%20Manual/PB10%20sm.pdf
http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Service%20Manual/PB12%20sm.pdf

My ClassD module shorted out (buzzing sound/blown fuse) and not availabled any more so this is what I did: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/JBL%20PB-12%20mod/
I would suggest to buy new one.

N450AD transistor is busted,no available!!! does anyone have any idea for "replacement/subtitutions" for this Transistor?
Please help!!!!!

Fuses are located in the junction box below the instrument panel to the left of the steering column. The turn signal flasher and hazard warning flasher also plug into the fuse block. Each fuse receptacle is marked as to the circuit it protects and the correct amperage of the fuse. In line fuses are also used. Refer to the Fuse Chart at the end of the information for their location. The fuse block on some models is a swing-down unit located in the underside of the instrument panel adjacent to the steering column. Access to the fuse block on some models is gained through the glove box opening. The Convenience Center on some models is a swing-down unit located on the underside of the instrument panel. The swing-down feature provides central location and easy access to buzzers, relays and flasher units. All units are serviced by plug-in replacement. Location of Convenience Center on specific models may vary.

yes, there's 2 fusen inside near the power supply.

The fuse is designed to protect the circuit and prevent fire. When a fuse blows it is because it is getting to much current through it.
In some cases it could be because you replaced the fuse with one that did not meet the specs of the required fuse, there are different types of fuses and you should always replace with exactly the same type of fuse.

Do not replace with a higher Amp fuse, you could end up frying the amp at least. It's not a safe thing to do since there is an off chance of fire from using the wrong fuse.

If you have the right type of fuse installed and it is still blowing, then refer the unit to a qualified service center for repair, or look for a new replacement Amp.

john

The fuse is accessible by removing the amp module from the back. The fuse location will be obvious. Replace it with the same type of fuse and you should be OK.
Dan

Hi,

Generally, if a fuse blows it is indicative of a fault with any of the components. If the fuse is on the AC side, then chances are it is the power supply, if it is on the DC side, then it is the amplifiers side.

I tend to suspect that you cannot find a replacement board. And if ever available from the manufacturer would probably cost just slightly less than buying a new set.

Your alternative is to seek the services of qualified audio technician who is willing to do component level repair. Circuit design would not differ much from basic amplifier hence replacement parts would reasonably be available versus entire PCB.

But then again, you must consider the cost/time of repair. If cost of repair plus downtime would not be to your liking, perhaps your best bet would be to purchase a new unit.

The cheapest alternative would be to do a DIY (do-it-yourself) which would require that you be familiar with basic electronics circuitry & components, use of & access to a DVM and use of a soldering iron.

Hope that this be of some help/idea. Pls post back how things turned out or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.