Question about Frigidaire Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: washing machine maytag performa
This problem is normally attributed to a combination of two things: A worn out snubber ring, and a worn brake assembly.
The snubber ring assembly is a white teflon ring that sits under the wash tub at the base (called the milk stool, because it looks like an upside down milk stool). The entire wash tub assembly will rest on the snubber as it helps get rid of vibration while the tub agitates and spins. When the snubber starts to wear down, you will notice an increase in tub vibration during the spin cycle and it will sometimes begin to squeak. NOTE: YOU CANNOT OIL THE SNUBBER! DOING SO CAN CAUSE MORE DAMAGE.
The brake assembly is mounted between the pulley wheel and transmission under the washer. As the brake assembly ages, the pad (which is mounted along the rim of a metal disc) begins to glaze over. As it glazes, it will also squeak and cause the sudden "slamming" to a stop. The glazing, coupled with humidity in the air can make this condition worse.
Both problems occur normally with this model washer and can be attributed to normal wear and tear. I recommend replacing the brake assembly and snubber at the same time. You will need, however, a special Maytag brake removal tool and spring removal tool if you decide to attempt this repair yourself (it is possible to accomplish this without the aid of a repairman). Let me know if you need further assistance. CAUTION: THERE IS A 200 LB COMPRESSED SPRING UNDER THE BRAKE HOUSING. ATTEMPTING TO REMOVE THE COVER WITHOUT THE BRAKE REMOVAL TOOL CAN BE DANGEROUS.
Posted on Oct 30, 2007
its either the upper spin bearing or lower spin bearing. the upper can be replaced by itself but the lower requires the transmission the be replaced
Posted on Nov 20, 2007
If the washer will fill and drain, but won't agitate or spin, you, indeed, may have a broken motor coupling. The noise of the motor engaging, lack of agitation and ability to still drain are the usual symptoms. This is a common fail item with this model washer through normal wear and tear. Newer versions of the coupler are more resilient and resist breaking. The following link explains how to replace one:
The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the transmission and takes the place of a drive belt. They do wear out and can break. The replacement part number is included in the link I provided and is an improved upgraded coupling that is more resilient. It should last longer. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
A replacement coupling can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com for about $11. Just use the part number in the link and "Search by Part Number" for your search criteria. Let me know if you have any questions. I hope you find this information helpful. NOTE: There are other problems that can cause the washer symptoms as you describe, but the motor coupling is the least expensive and easiest solution to try first. If the motor coupling is still intact, please let me know.
Posted on May 27, 2009
sounds like motor brushes have worn out will need to remove motor to replace they are inexpensive.the clicking is the relay telling motor to rotate clockwise or anticlockwise.
Posted on Oct 28, 2009
"UL" means "Unbalanced Load" - make sure the washer isn't overloaded first or if you are doing rugs, blankets, or lots of jeans, split the load. You can also try running an empty or light load and see how the machine behaves.
If you still have the problem, you may have some issues with the drum bumpers, etc., but try the easy things first.
Posted on Jul 12, 2010
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