Question about Maytag Atlantis MDE7400AY Electric Dryer

15 Answers

Maytag dryer wont shut off

My daughter has a maytag MDE8400ayw electric dryer. The dryer runs constantly in all cycles. The WET light on the intellidry board was also always on. I replaced the timer and had the same problem. I pulled the intellidry board and found that Q2 was blown and cracked as well as the trace to the 14 pin molex connector that goes to the brown wire (PIN 4). I replaced the intellidry board and the lights appeared to workd for about a minute and then it was damaged exactly the same as the first board. I did open up the original timer and found that the motor winding was open. It is possible that the second timer was bad as i bought it from chicago liquidators who bought out a lot of maytag parts. (they had sent me the wrong timer the first time but then sent me the supposedly correct one). I have tried to get a schematic of the intellidry board so i could study the circuit but cannot seem to find anyone who has it available. I am EE so normally i can fix stuff but this one has me puzzled.

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  • 9 more comments 
  • Tom Clifford Mar 13, 2009

    I have checked wiring on timer cable and intellidry cable for shorts to ground or nuetral but nothing was shorted. This answer is way too vague and not really helpful.

  • Tom Clifford Mar 13, 2009

    here are some more details. the timer does not move at all, in any settings. Vent is not blocked. Remember, intellidry board gets damaged, probably due to some type of improper voltage coming into it.

  • Tom Clifford Mar 13, 2009

    i have the wiring diagram for the dryer but do not have the detailed schematic for the intellidry board.

  • Tom Clifford Mar 13, 2009

    Also, the dryer heats and dries clothes just fine. the dryer is not on the recall list

  • Tom Clifford Mar 27, 2010

    Hello to anyone reading this post. First off let me say that I have FINALLY found the problem with this POS dryer. I had quit working on it for a year or so and my daughter just used another means to keep track of when to shut off the dryer. Not a good idea as i am sure she dried some loads of clothes for extra hours.

    First the facts, This is a MAYTAG MDE8400AYW dryer, not MDE7400AYW.

    The S/N is 24375054EN. (VERY IMPORTANT AND MISLEADING INFORMATION)

    As mentioned before the orginal problem was the dryer would not stop running in any postion. the dampness sensor had been ruled out. After ordering a new timer, i found that i had the same problem and that the intellidry circuit board, ( the small board with the 3 lights and buzzer) was bad. I could see that a part had actually exploded apart and that a copper trace was burned off the board. I put in another timer (same part number as first) and another circuit board blew out exactly the same way.

    After waiting a year i went back and found another posting on another site that described my exact problem.

    What i learned was that there are 3 series of these dryers and that the first two digits of the serial number are supposed to determine what series dryer you have. the series numbers are 10,16, and 24 to the best of my knowledge. I supposedly have a series 24 dryer which maytag will tell you that you need a 33002855 timer. This is not necessarily true. Maytag manufactured some dryers with a series 16 cable assmebly and a series 16 timer under serial numbers that start with 24. My dryer was in this category and needed the 33002808 timer that goes with the Series 16 dryer. You may also know that the number 3300xxxx number is NOT on the timer. If you put the 33002855 in a dryer with a series 16 cable assembly you WILL blowout the intellidry circuit board!!!

    Here are some details that may help you determine which dryer series you really have.

    there should be a wiring assembly drawing that came with your dryer. The number on my wiring assembly drawing is 63406750.

    what about the actual numbers on the timer?? Well the best i can guess from looking at 4 of them now is that there is a number after the word "Kingston".

    71020 = 33002808 timer

    70770 = 33002855 timer.

    Caution! this is my observation based on the original timer and the replacement timers that I worked or blew out the intellidry board. In my dryer the original timer was 71020 and that is what the number was on the timer that worked.

    ALSO, BE WARY OF THE SERVICE PERSONNEL THAT WORK ON YOUR DRYER IF YOU SO CHOOSE TO TAKE THIS PATH.



    If you have ever fought this problem you might have found that the maytag timer part number

  • Tom Clifford Mar 27, 2010

    oops sorry about that ending as i hit the wrong key on my computer. What i was going to say about the service companies is that many times it is an inexperienced tech that comes out charges you $50 for a service call, then call the MAYTAG tech line for advise. At the other end of the phone is a slightly more educated ******* who asks for the serial number and tells the tech to order a timer that turns out to be the wrong one. Then the tech comes out and puts in the wrong and of course, has no F***ing clue as to what is wrong. Does he care, maybe not so much. He doesn't have shell out for blown parts, because they come with a 90 day warranty. In my case, you only need about a 30 second warranty as the circuit board fries pretty darn quick with the wrong timer. I hope this helps anyone who gives or needs help with this problem. If someone actually reads this please leave me a comment as i would love to know if i helped anyone else.

    Best of luck

  • Marcelo Fernandes Oct 04, 2012

    In addition to Tom's comments, I also have a Maytag dryer mde8400ay. It seems my timer is bad and it also is model number 71020. All I can find available to purchase is a timer number 33002803. Tom suggests it should be the 33002808 but none to be found. I will order what is available and hope my board does not fry. If anyone is familiar with this this dryer, let me know where the secondary ground wire (green wire with pressue clip end) attaches to.

  • Tom Clifford Oct 04, 2012

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  • Tom Clifford Oct 04, 2012

    Marcelo, the key to which timer you need is really the wiring assembly that is in your dryer. if it matcehes the number that i posted earlier then you need a 33002808 timer If your dryer was make later on you will have a different wiring assembly number and you will need the 33002855 timer. I dont think i would put in a xxxx2803 as i dont know what that would do. i have seen the 33002808 on ebay so i think you should be able to find it. Make sure you check the intellidry board for damage as well.

  • Marcelo Fernandes Oct 06, 2012

    I just received the 33002808 and will try it today. Thanks

  • Marcelo Fernandes Oct 06, 2012

    Tom, I installed it and it works. Thanks for the help.

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15 Answers

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Hi!

Please see the wiring diagram for your maytag MDE8400ayw electric dryer from these links---

Maytag MDE8400ayw electric dryer Link 1

Maytag MDE8400ayw electric dryer Link 2

Maytag wiring link 3

Please ask for any clarifications.

Thanks
Rylee

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

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Hello my name is Tim Ehrhart, have you made sure the intellidry board does not have a faulty moistier sensor? if it is constantly saying clothers are wet then it is a sensor problem, I hope this helps.

Posted on Mar 18, 2009

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Just a logical conclusion from my standing on the side lines while everyone works this one out.

How about the original diagnosis the timer being bad. Check it was because it worked for a few moments when you powered it up and seemed like it was working. BUT the original problem is still there because the new timer went out too. I suggest that the intell dry sensor was bad causing the original timer to go out. The sensor was replaced 2nd time right? but the 2nd timer was not? Well if both timers were wired onto the origonal sensor ... and it was the problem causer .... its now been replaced but the 2nd timmer is out because of the 1st sensor...
Does this all amke sence or am I on the wrong track? please let me know how this comes out. Thanks and good luck.

Posted on Mar 14, 2009

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Hi  If your dryer seems to run forever, it could be because of a clogged vent or internal ductwork. Your dryer may have an automatic cycle that turns off the dryer when the clothes are dry. It does this with a special thermostat or moisture-sensing system. 

Normally, this is what happens during an automatic cycle:

  • The thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a pre-set temperature--say 135 degrees.


  • When the dryer reaches the pre-set temperature, the thermostat tells the timer to begin advancing. (If there's a moisture sensor, the timer advances only if the moisture content of the clothing is low enough.)


  • The timer advances until the interior cools, then the thermostat tells the timer to stop advancing, and tells the dryer to start heating again.


This cycle continues until the clothes are dry. But…if the vent is clogged, the dryer may never reach the proper operating temperature, so it doesn't send the signal to the timer and the dryer continues to run indefinitely, even if the clothes are completely dry. To fix the problem, clean the vent and/or internal ductwork.
thank u......

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Mar 14, 2009

    hi then its definitely a timer or control knob problem either you have to buy a new timer or try that there is any short circuit on timer or whether the controler has full function..

    (better to change timer thats the best i think)
    thank u.......


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Maybe there is some moisture on the main board or perhaps a warped board.

check the boards :/

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

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The whole production run may possibly be bad on this specific timer. i would try to get another timer on the aftermarket side of trade. seems to be defective.

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

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  • Maytag Master
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The new board had probably blown again either because it was faulty, or because it was wired in the wrong way, or because of a contact in wirings.


If it can help , here is the wiring diagram:

Maytag dryer wont shut off - bba7dd4.gif


Inspect the wirings to dryness sensor and control panel, I do not think that a shorted dryness sensor can damage teh board, but also have a look at the dryness sensor, just in case.

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

  • Ginko
    Ginko Mar 18, 2009

    The board is connected to the timer, timer motor and dryness sensor.

    Replace the dryness sensor, just in case, and if the board has blown and is in bad conditions is not worth attempting repair.
    It looks like the problem is a bad voltage, either a wrong wring, a contact shorting somewhere, check the connectors to the board and timer.
    All voltages from timer shold be tested.
    correct ,

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If the connection are done check it properly cuz it probably a short ciruit on it,, because that can cause dthe malfunctioning on it

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

  • Antonio Buenafe Jr.
    Antonio Buenafe Jr. Mar 14, 2009

    again pls check the wiring schematic line,, cuz if you do not flow it properly it can cause SHORT CIRCUIT,, then thats the reason it will not on

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Have a look here to make sure your machine is not covered in the major maytag recall
https://repair.maytag.com/prjjck/default.jsp

please be patient as the page takes abit to open

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

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I can't help you much here, but it might be worth checking the power cable connections at the dryer and receptacle - without a schematic I can't say much, but it's possible a floating neutral might cause the 120v components to fry. You may have already checked voltages, so this is just my 2 cents worth.

Good luck!

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

  • John Aman
    John Aman Mar 13, 2009

    Unfortunately I'm having problems seeing the schematics, but I'd still definitely check at the L1/L2/N of the machine for 120v between both hot legs and neutral, and continuity between ground and neutral

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Posted on Mar 13, 2009

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It seems to run forever If your dryer seems to run forever, it could be because of a clogged vent or internal ductwork. Your dryer may have an automatic cycle that turns off the dryer when the clothes are dry. It does this with a special thermostat or moisture-sensing system.

Normally, this is what happens during an automatic cycle:

  • The thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a pre-set temperature--say 135 degrees.


  • When the dryer reaches the pre-set temperature, the thermostat tells the timer to begin advancing. (If there's a moisture sensor, the timer advances only if the moisture content of the clothing is low enough.)


  • The timer advances until the interior cools, then the thermostat tells the timer to stop advancing, and tells the dryer to start heating again.


This cycle continues until the clothes are dry. But…if the vent is clogged, the dryer may never reach the proper operating temperature, so it doesn't send the signal to the timer and the dryer continues to run indefinitely, even if the clothes are completely dry. To fix the problem, clean the vent and/or internal ductwork.

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

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Hi

please check for shorted parts this may cause the problem..

Thanks!

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

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I would replace both timers and the entire board. If that board is fried, it probably shorted out both timers.
Sorry, don't have a schematic, but i'll keep looking.

Posted on Mar 14, 2009

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  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Mar 31, 2009

    I would use a tester and see if you are getting power to all components. Also make sure you are not getting too much power. It does sound like that would be the problem but I am yet to find a reason why. I would also check both timers. The elements may have overheated or shorted out. I will do my best to find a schematic.

    I found a schematic in a repair guide at repairclinic.com
    It cost $12.95 for the manual


  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Apr 23, 2009

    Here are some wiring diagrams....


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  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Apr 23, 2009
  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Apr 23, 2009



    OK we have no L1 as long as you are sure the timer was pulled out in
    the run position and the door switch was either jumped or closed.
    Progress. We want to trace it back to see where we have lost the L1.
    With the timer in the same run position you can do a voltage check at
    the timer block from (your going to have to help here because I can not
    make out the wire numbers) the yellow wire that comes to your timer
    straight from the L1 post of the terminal block to the purple that
    comes out of your timer and goes through your thermal fuses, and
    changes to the Gray wire that feeds your motor. If you have 120VAC from
    yellow to purple and your timer is in the correct position you have a
    open timer cam 4 and your timer is as we say in Georgia, "Slap tore
    up". If you do not have your 120VAC there we want to start tracing it
    to see where we loose the L1. Start at the yellow wire entering the
    timer from the L1 post to chassis, then the purple, then the purple at
    the first thermal fuse, then the gray out of that fuse and so on.

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Mar 28, 2010

    If timer, door switch and relays are all good, then you are looking at a faulty control panel.

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