Question about Kenmore HE2 Plus Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Stator rubs against rotor

I just replaced the upper and lower bearings, shaft, and tub seal. I have everything back together, but when I move the shaft, the rotor is rubbing against the stator. I have taken off the stator and put it back on 3 times, and cannot figure out why it is making that noise. I've tried reseating the bearings, nuts are tightened as much as possible, GRRRRR!!! Anyone got any ideas on what to try, before this hugely expensive washer becomes a new yard ornament?!?!

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  • Jon Sailors Apr 25, 2013

    I don't know why, but I put the model number for this question, and it put in that it is a front load washer, when in fact it is a TOP LOAD WASHER!!! It is a KENMORE HE OASIS TOP LOAD WASHER.

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  • Kenmore Master
  • 662 Answers

Go to YouTube with your model number,make,bearings change.

Posted on Apr 25, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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aborcass
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SOURCE: KENMORE HE3T BASKET RUBBING ON THE PLASTIC FRONT TUB

if ripped obvioussly youl need to replace the front rubber bellow, i would remove the bottom panel and have a look inside sounds like you have a broken shock aborber or 2 not properly supporting tub assy

Posted on Feb 28, 2008

jgwhomeequip
  • 1902 Answers

SOURCE: Washer making rubing noise while turning

On the back of your machine you can remove the back panel think it is about 8 screws. Once you get the back panel off look closely at the motor. Motor mounts, gears, clutch, brake, and if need be take the bottom apart and look at the main bearing on the bottom of the drum to make sure that hasnt gone bad

Posted on Feb 14, 2009

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: I have a kenmore elite washer mod.#110-27062602

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.27062602&pathTaken=partSearch

Assuming that this is the Oasis type washer, see the Whirlpool Service Manual for their Cabrio washer which is basically the same as the Oasis.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/409753510a90c8be852571e90073421b/$FILE/8178583.pdf

It has troubleshooting and teardown procedures.

Posted on May 08, 2010

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: my washer is making a metal to metal rubbing noise

bearings or coins stuck between drum and tub

Posted on Aug 11, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: Front load washer makes grinding noise when in spin cycle

Rear Tub Bearing Replacement Whirlpool Frigidaire Kenmore Front Loar Washers



This advice is for replacing the rear wash tub shell of most Kenmore Elite HE model FRONT LOADERS, along with Whirlpool Duet, and some Frigidaire FRONT LOADER models. This is a repair that would be rated as difficult due to the extensive disassembly and reassembly of components.

The requirement to replace the rear wash tub shell is usually attributed to the rear tub bearing failure in which the bearings are molded into the tub and cannot be replaced otherwise. In some situations the replacement of the inner spinner basket (stainless steel tub) may also be required due to the corrosion and breakage of the spider arms in the back of the basket that support the basket.

SYMPTOMS: Washer exhibits excessively loud “rumbling” type noise during the spin cycle, excessively vibrates, or won’t spin at all.

DETERMINING IF THE BEARING AND SPIN BASKET ARE BAD: With the washer door open, place your hand inside the basket and push straight up. If there is excessive play in the tub (wobbles up and down) the bearing is probably bad. If the spinner basket scrapes against the outer tub shell when you give it a spin, you will have to replace the inner spin basket as well. Unfortunately, you cannot see the condition of spinner basket supports until it is removed from the outer tub shells. In some cases, a brownish colored stain my show up on clothing as the bearing seal has been breached and leaks into the spinner basket.

Before starting this repair, make sure you read through all instructions thoroughly and place the washer is in an area that gives you plenty of space to work.






DISASSEMBLY:

1. Unplug washer and turn off water supply.
2. Disconnect washer inlet supply lines and remove drain hose from standpipe.
3. Using a shop vac, pull a vacuum on the drain hose to remove all residual water from the drain lines, tub and drain pump. If you do not own a shop vac, remove the lower panel under the door and locate the drain pump. If the drain pump has a clean out trap, lay out some old towels, and open the trap to allow water to drain. If the pump does not have a drain trap, disconnect one of the drain pump hoses.
4. Remove the lower panel under the door (if you haven’t done so in the previous step) and remove the washer top and back panels.
5. Disconnect the dispenser hose from the top of the wash tub and disconnect the hose on the side of the tub going to the pressure switch.
6. Remove the hose that leads from the bottom of the wash tub to the drain pump and remove the drain hose that leads to the standpipe.
7. Remove the door bellow (rubber door boot) from the door frame ONLY and push inside the tub. Leave the other end of the door boot attached to the tub shell. If this is a small front loader, the bellow is cemented to the washer door frame. Use a putty knife to slowly peel the rubber from the door facing. If this is a large HE or Duet model, the bellow is held in place by a small hoop spring. It is located in the seam of the bellow along the door frame at the six o’clock position. Pull the spring out and carefully stretch it apart to remove the hoop from the seam. With the hoop removed, the bellow can be pushed inside the wash tub. Remember to remove the bellow from the water inlet tube that leads from the dispenser.
8. Remove the washer support shocks from the wash tub. The large HE model and Duet models are removed by grasping the upper portion of the shock and turning counter-clockwise. The shock will snap loose and can be pushed aside. Leave the lower portion installed in the bottom of the washer. If this is a small front loader, the shocks are held in place by plastic pins. The pins have a locking tab that needs to be compressed while pushing the pin out of the hole. This is NOT any easy task and it will take some effort. HINT: If you use a long socket that fits snugly over the pointed end of the plastic pins, it will compress the locking tab and enable you to use a hammer to carefully tap them free. NOTE: Large HE models and Duets have 4 shocks, while the smaller models may only have 2.
9. Remove the Drive Motor belt by grasping it near the top and pulling towards you while rotating the large pulley. The belt should slip off.
10. Remove the Drive Motor and Motor Control Board. Carefully label all connections, so you know here the go when have to re-install them.
11. Remove the back casing brackets so the entire back of the washer is open.
12. Remove the rear counter weight from the wash tub to minimize some of the weight.
13. This next step may require two persons: With the tub still suspended by the upper support springs, slowly lay the washer all the way on its back while supporting the wash tub. NOTE: Place something under the washer to support the tub shaft as you lay the washer back (i.e., old blankets, cardboard boxes, etc.) Once the washer is lying down, remove the upper support springs and set the cabinet upright. The wash tub should be now free from the washer cabinet.
14. Set the wash tub assembly upright and remove all the screws around the perimeter of the tub shell halves. NOTE: An electric screw driver with socket attachment works wonders and will speed up this process. If the tub is held together with clips, use a screwdriver along the tub edge under each clip and pry up to remove.
15. NOTE: If you plan on reusing the door bellow, use care not to damage any of the rubber. Place some old towels down and lay the wash tub assembly with the front opening face down. Lift the rear shell off the inner wash basket shaft. You can now inspect the spider arm supports of the spin basket. If the supports are cracked or broken, or if the shaft is worn, you will need to replace the spinner basket.
16. Remove the spinner basket assembly and inspect the front tub shell. In most cases the front shell can be reused and will not require replacement. If the inside of the front shell is damaged, however, it will require replacement.




REASSEMBLY:


1. Reassembling the tub shell parts and inner spin basket is self-explanatory. Just make sure you tighten all screws evenly in a crossing pattern as you tighten the tub shells. If the tub is held together with clips, they can be tapped back into place with a hammer. Use the same crossing pattern to ensure the shells are tightened evenly.
2. Lay the assembled tub shell with the opening face up. Make sure you support the spin basket shaft.
3. Lay the washer casing down over top the washer tub shell.
4. Insert the upper shell support springs into the wash tub and support spring brackets.
5. Raise the washer casing to the upright position, making sure the tub does not swing forward into the washer front. Re-install the rear counter-weight and washer back brackets.
6. Re-install the washer support shocks.
7. Re-install the drain line hose.
8. Re-install the Motor Control Unit and Drive Motor.
9. Re-install the Drive Belt pulley and belt. The belt is installed by placing it into the Drive Motor shaft, first. Make sure there is a one-groove gap between the belt and the end of the drive shaft. With your left hand hold the belt on the drive pulley and guide it around as you turn the pulley with your right hand in a clockwise direction. This can take some effort.
10. Re-install the hoses that lead from the bottom of the wash tub to the drain pump, and pressure switch.
11. Re-insert the water inlet tube into the rubber door bellow, ensuring the rubber is seated past the flange on the tube.
12. Pull the door bellow through the door frame opening and reseat it. If this is a small model front loader the door bellow will have to be cemented back in place with appliance door gasket adhesive. If this is a larger model front loader that has a hoop spring to hold the bellow in place, insert as follows:


- Place the hoop into the groove of the door bellow along the facing of the door frame with the spring in the 6 o’clock position.
- With both hands gradually work your way around to the 4 and 8 o’clock positions and stretch the spring apart.
- Push the spring and hoop into the groove.

NOTE: It may require a second person to get the door bellow back in place.

1. Re-install the rubber dispenser hose to the top of the wash tub.
2. Re-install back panel and top panel and hook washer back up to water source. Make sure the drain hose is placed back in the standpipe.
3. Leave the bottom washer panel off and plug unit back in. Test operate and check for leaks. If no leaks are present, re-install bottom panel.


Some other parts that may have to be considered when performing a rear tub shell replacement:
- Rubber Door Bellow
- Spinner Basket (if arm supports are damaged)
- Front Tub Shell (if signs of internal damage)
- Drive Pulley (can sometimes become damaged trying to remove old one)
- Drive Belt (check belt during parts removal for wear)
- Wash Tub Support Shocks (The shocks can sometimes break when trying to remove)

NOTE: 1. If you replace the front tub shell you will need to remove the door bellow and front counter-weights and install them on the new shell. 2. If you replace the spinner basket, some do not come with the wash tub fins. Make sure you remove and re-install the old ones in the new tub if required.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Sep 13, 2010

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1 Answer

Elite model #11027087603. How do I remove tubseal nut on bottom of washer that holds motor rotor on shaft?


that should have an inset, hex-headed screw/bolt. You will have to hold the rotor with one hand and use your other hand to loosen that screw. they use thread lock on that screw, so it will be difficult. but, that's only half the battle. You will have to remove the tub cover, agitator (7/16 agitator nut size), and the spin basket to access the tub seal. the seal has to go on from the inside of the tub assembly. Make sure you don't use anything against the outer lip of where the seal seats inside the tub, or you will have to replace the outer tub because it will still leak. Push the seal all the way down. then before you put everything back together, pour a small amount of water in the tub and see if you see any leaks. anything major will show then, but if there is a small leak, you will not know it till you try to wash with it. You shouldn't have to remove the stator screw or do anything from the bottom side of this unit. You should be able to replace that seal from the top side. good luck.

Nov 28, 2015 | Kenmore Washing Machines

Tip

Maytag Washer Squeaking Problem


This advice is for certain Maytag TOP LOADING washers equipped with a vertical transmission and drive belt system.

Loud squeaking noises during the wash cycle or, at the end of the spin cycle, can be attributed to a worn snubber ring and/or brake assembly. The snubber is a plastic ring located under the tub support. It helps to reduce vibration as the tub agitates and spins. You cannot lubricate the snubber to get rid of the noise. In fact, you may damage the washer if you do. A small amount of corn starch can be sprinkled under the bottom tub support where the snubber ring is located to get rid of some noise related problems (this will be the round metal plate where the tub support meets the bottom casing of the machine). A worn snubber will also cause some vibration or out of balance problems. The brake tends to glaze over after it has become worn and will squeak or cause sudden jerking of the washer when the spin cycle stops. If the corn starch tip does not get rid of the squeaks, I would recommend replacing the following parts:

Brake Stator
Brake Rotor and Lining
Snubber:


You will need: Brake Removal Kit*

*Brake removal tool is required in order to remove the brake assembly and/or to replace the snubber. There is a 200lbs brake spring located under the Brake Stator that must be compressed PRIOR to removal or you could cause injury to yourself.

The parts required to make the repairs aren't very expensive, but the tool required to do it can cost about $100. This repair I would rate as DIFFICULT for the average do-it-yourselfer. If you've never worked on this type of washer before, this is not a job that I would recommend. However, Maytag DOES provide informative how-to instructions with all their parts.

To replace the snubber and brake assembly:

1. Remove the front case of the washer to access the washer interior.
2. Tilt the washer towards the back and remove the drive belt. Slide the drive motor towards the center pulley to relieve belt tension.
3. Remove the drive pulley by removing the center cap and retaining ring from the drive shaft. Remember how these components go back together. There should be a couple of plastic drive bearing pieces and some metal washers above the pulley on the shaft.
3. Lower washer and remove hoses from the wash tub.
4. Remove the suspension springs. NOTE: Pulling the wash tub towards the spring you are removing will release some of the tension on it.
5. I usually remove the entire wash tub with transmission still installed at this point and place it upside down outside the washer for ease of accessing everything. (There are other methods, but I find this one easier).
6. This is where the brake compression tool will be required to remove the brake rotor, stator and snubber ring. (Instructions come with the tool). Basically, it involves compressing the spring by turning the compression tool CW with a wrench, loosening all the bolts on the brake stator housing, and then slowly turning the compression tool CCW.
7. The brake compression tool is removed at this point and the snubber, brake rotor, brake stator and brake spring can be accessed.
8. Replace any worn parts, and reassemble the brake assembly. DO NOT forget to place the brake spring back in place before putting the brake rotor back on.
9. Place the tub assembly right side up and lower back into washer.
10. Reconnect all hoses back to wash tub.
11. Reinstall all tub suspension springs. NOTE: It’s easier to start in the back of the washer and work your way towards the front.
12. Tilt washer back and reinstall drive pulley. NOTE: When placing drive pulley back on shaft turn pulley slightly to ensure it is seated all the way on the shaft. NOTE: If the shaft had multiple metal washers, you may only need ONE after replacing the snubber ring. Retain the extra washer for later use if needed. If the drive pulley is reinstalled correctly, a groove will be visible at the end of the drive shaft for the retaining ring to go back in place.
13. Reinstall drive belt.

NOTE: The following link lists the recommended tools to complete this repair:

Spring Removal Tool (item #455570)
Brake/Bearing/Seal Removal Tool Kit (item #997909)

http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SmartSearch.aspx

Just go to these fields and select the following:

Brand: Maytag
Appliance Type: Washing Machine
Part Type: Tool

The list of all Maytag tools will appear.

NOTE: To save a few extra dollars, you can remove the 6 10-24 machine bolts, that hold the brake stator housing, one at a time and replace them with 10-24 x 2" machine bolts. Once all the original bolts are removed, back out the 2" machine bolts evenly, keeping the brake stator housing aligned but slowly releasing the pressure from the 200 lb spring.

After replacing the snubber ring, the brake and the brake stator housing, use the 2" long machine screws again to pull the unit together. Once all assembled, replace the 2" bolts with the original 10-24 X 1/2" machine bolts.

I hope this information is helpful.

on Dec 04, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Basket rubs on door boot seal.


Be sure both lower and upper halves are correctly connect together

May 01, 2017 | Frigidaire Washing Machines

1 Answer

Daewoo DWD L142kc wont spin


Dwd-L142KC has a direct drive motor. A very common fault on this machine is that the drum shaft seal fails, letting water into the bearings which then starts to rust and then develope severe play between the drum and the tub. As the stator is mounted onto the tub and the rotor is mounted onto the drum shaft the rotor can then, due to the worn bearing, move too far away from the stator. Because the sensor that detects the actual speed of the motor is mounted onto the stator assembly, the control PCB then no longer gets the feedback signal from the sensor hence the motor not running correct. You'll most probably see the motor only moving in short bursts, a the missing feedback prevents it from accelerating further. A bearing and seal repair will in this case resolve this problem. It did on my machine. If the shaft is heavily worn below the shaft seal, this will need sorted in order to prevent the new seal from getting damaged or wearing out to soon.

Jun 08, 2012 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Had a problem with my machine and figured out it was the bearings and the shaft. have replaced those and put the machine back together. Is now running better than ever BUT now have I leak!! any help/s


What was the condition of the bearing surface of the shaft where the seals rubs against in. Did you replace the shaft? To replace seals and bearings needs to be done properly. the bearing surface where the neoprene rubs against the shaft must be the correct size and bearing surface must be polished, otherwise the shaft's pitted surface will quickly grind away the neoprene seal's surface which comes in contact with the shaft. To replace the shaft you will need a hydraulic press to press the shaft out, as well as a good quality bearing puller. For these reasons I advise the DIY expert to avoid doing this kind of work. When the seals go, its cheaper to buy a new machine then undergo other problems associated with rebuilding a machine. Never use washing powder which accumulates and can be very abrasive to the seals. Use something like Cold Power, Green Earth or etc as a liquid detergent

Dec 17, 2011 | Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines

2 Answers

Maytag washer wont agitate, tub just spins during wash cycle


you have a bad bad break package which is mounted above pulley located on bottom of machine.special tool required.Hope this helps .pleases rate my answer:)

Dec 09, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

How to change the snuber ring on a Maytag MAV9750


To replace the snubber and brake assembly on your Maytag washer, just follow these steps:

1. Remove the front case of the washer to access the washer interior.
2. Tilt the washer towards the back and remove the drive belt. Slide the drive motor towards the center pulley to relieve belt tension.
3. Remove the drive pulley by removing the center cap and retaining ring from the drive shaft. Remember how these components go back together. There should be a couple of plastic drive bearing pieces and some metal washers above the pulley on the shaft.
3. Lower washer and remove hoses from the wash tub.
4. Remove the suspension springs. NOTE: Pulling the wash tub towards the spring you are removing will release some of the tension on it.
5. I usually remove the entire wash tub with transmission still installed at this point and place it upside down outside the washer for ease of accessing everything. (There are other methods, but I find this one easier).
6. This is where a brake compression tool will be required to remove the brake rotor, stator and snubber ring. (Instructions come with the tool). Basically, it involves compressing the spring by turning the compression tool CW with a wrench, loosening all the bolts on the brake stator housing, and then slowly turning the compression tool CCW.
7. The brake compression tool is removed at this point and the snubber, brake rotor, brake stator and brake spring can be accessed.
8. Replace any worn parts, and reassemble the brake assembly. DO NOT forget to place the brake spring back in place before putting the brake rotor back on.
9. Place the tub assembly right side up and lower back into washer.
10. Reconnect all hoses back to wash tub.
11. Reinstall all tub suspension springs. NOTE: It’s easier to start in the back of the washer and work your way towards the front.
12. Tilt washer back and reinstall drive pulley. NOTE: When placing drive pulley back on shaft turn pulley slightly to ensure it is seated all the way on the shaft. NOTE: If the shaft had multiple metal washers, you may only need ONE after replacing the snubber ring. Retain the extra washer for later use if needed. If the drive pulley is reinstalled correctly, a groove will be visible at the end of the drive shaft for the retaining ring to go back in place.
13. Reinstall drive belt.

NOTE: The following link lists the recommended tools to complete this repair:

Spring Removal Tool (item #455570)
Brake/Bearing/Seal Removal Tool Kit (item #997909)

http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SmartSearch.aspx

However, I had a suggestion from someone I had helped in the past that provided this brilliant idea to save money instead of purchasing the brake release tool:

"I removed the 6 10-24 machine bolts, that hold the brake stator housing, one at a time and replaced them with 10-24 x 2" machine bolts. Once all the original bolts were removed, I backed out the 2" machine bolts evenly, keeping the brake stator housing aligned but slowly releasing the pressure from the 200 lb spring.

After replacing the snubber ring, the break and the break stator housing, I again use the 2" long machine screws to pull the unit together. Once all assembled, I replaced the 2" bolts with the original 10-24 X 1/2" machine bolts." Tip courtesy of rrdumas53.

If you have questions about this repair, please let me know. I hope you find these instructions helpful.

Sep 24, 2009 | Maytag Atlantis MAV9750A Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Theres a banging noise when the machine is spinning


Most noises from a washing machine occur during the spin cycle. If you hear loud thumping during the spin, the load of clothes may have become unbalanced. Stop the washer and redistribute the clothes, then re-start it. Repeat these steps if necessary. 
------------------------ The problem is the brake. The odd time what happens is moisture gets on thebrake rotor and the squealing is heard when the brake stator is applied to stop the tub from spinning. This moisture, may drip down from the tub onto the brake rotor which could indicate a leaky tub seal. If you can't see any dripping when you fill the tub with water, don't worry about the tub seal. Many times than not the brake is just going sour on it's own. 
Sometimes you can fix the squealing by cleaning the rotor and stator with a light sandpaper, such as emery/sand cloth. If that doesn't work you will need to replace the brake stator and rotor. If you need to replace them replace both parts together, don't just change the stator without also replacing the rotor, or vice versa. And here's a bonus tip: the brake spring exerts 200 pounds of force. If you try to remove the six 5/16" screws without using this brake removal tool, serious injury can/could happen!! The splined part in the middle of the brake needs to be greased really good before putting the brake back on!
The drive/motor pulley on these washers is plastic. It can wear and start to slip on the drive belt, might be best to replace the belt at the same time if you find a worn/ground up motor pulley. The motor pulley presses onto the motor shaft, cutting or breaking the old one is common when changing it.
---------------
noises also comes from bad wheel bearing would make.]
If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly  and the outer shell with the tub bearing. 
Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.

Mar 14, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

My maytag washer won't turn or spin..


This advice is for certain Maytag TOP LOADING washers equipped with a vertical transmission and drive belt system.

Loud squeaking noises during the wash cycle or, at the end of the spin cycle, can be attributed to a worn snubber ring and/or brake assembly. The snubber is a plastic ring located under the tub support. It helps to reduce vibration as the tub agitates and spins. You cannot lubricate the snubber to get rid of the noise. In fact, you may damage the washer if you do. A small amount of corn starch can be sprinkled under the bottom tub support where the snubber ring is located to get rid of some noise related problems (this will be the round metal plate where the tub support meets the bottom casing of the machine). A worn snubber will also cause some vibration or out of balance problems. The brake tends to glaze over after it has become worn and will squeak or cause sudden jerking of the washer when the spin cycle stops. If the corn starch tip does not get rid of the squeaks, I would recommend replacing the following parts:

Brake Stator
Brake Rotor and Lining
Snubber:


You will need: Brake Removal Kit*

*Brake removal tool is required in order to remove the brake assembly and/or to replace the snubber. There is a 200lbs brake spring located under the Brake Stator that must be compressed PRIOR to removal or you could cause injury to yourself.

The parts required to make the repairs aren't very expensive, but the tool required to do it can cost about $100. This repair I would rate as DIFFICULT for the average do-it-yourselfer. If you've never worked on this type of washer before, this is not a job that I would recommend. However, Maytag DOES provide informative how-to instructions with all their parts.

To replace the snubber and brake assembly:

1. Remove the front case of the washer to access the washer interior.
2. Tilt the washer towards the back and remove the drive belt. Slide the drive motor towards the center pulley to relieve belt tension.
3. Remove the drive pulley by removing the center cap and retaining ring from the drive shaft. Remember how these components go back together. There should be a couple of plastic drive bearing pieces and some metal washers above the pulley on the shaft.
3. Lower washer and remove hoses from the wash tub.
4. Remove the suspension springs. NOTE: Pulling the wash tub towards the spring you are removing will release some of the tension on it.
5. I usually remove the entire wash tub with transmission still installed at this point and place it upside down outside the washer for ease of accessing everything. (There are other methods, but I find this one easier).
6. This is where the brake compression tool will be required to remove the brake rotor, stator and snubber ring. (Instructions come with the tool). Basically, it involves compressing the spring by turning the compression tool CW with a wrench, loosening all the bolts on the brake stator housing, and then slowly turning the compression tool CCW.
7. The brake compression tool is removed at this point and the snubber, brake rotor, brake stator and brake spring can be accessed.
8. Replace any worn parts, and reassemble the brake assembly. DO NOT forget to place the brake spring back in place before putting the brake rotor back on.
9. Place the tub assembly right side up and lower back into washer.
10. Reconnect all hoses back to wash tub.
11. Reinstall all tub suspension springs. NOTE: It’s easier to start in the back of the washer and work your way towards the front.
12. Tilt washer back and reinstall drive pulley. NOTE: When placing drive pulley back on shaft turn pulley slightly to ensure it is seated all the way on the shaft. NOTE: If the shaft had multiple metal washers, you may only need ONE after replacing the snubber ring. Retain the extra washer for later use if needed. If the drive pulley is reinstalled correctly, a groove will be visible at the end of the drive shaft for the retaining ring to go back in place.
13. Reinstall drive belt.

NOTE: The following link lists the recommended tools to complete this repair:

Spring Removal Tool (item #455570)
Brake/Bearing/Seal Removal Tool Kit (item #997909)

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Jan 03, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Ball Bearing Replacement


when spinning , it is noisy. How to overcome it.

May 30, 2008 | Washing Machines

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