I was replacing the thermal fuse and saw that there were no wires attached to the thermal cut off. (it's right behind the thermostat, and wires ARE attached to the thermostat). I see no wires available, but posts were scratched like there were at some time. Does it matter that there are no wires there? I've had this dryer since it was new. Kenmore #61062 Electric
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Re: No wires attached to thermal cut-off WHY?
I'd need to see the schematic for this dryer to be sure, but if what you are talking about is a thermal FUSE, it's a safety device, and would be inline with the thermostat. Considering that you say it's close to the thermostat, if the fuse blew, the serviceman could have just removed the wire from between the thermostat and fuse (say thermostat out to fuse in) taken the wire that was on the other side of the fuse (fuse out) and put it on the thermostat out instead - completing the circuit, and removing the fuse from the circuit altogether. A quick fix, but not a safe one. The fuse should be replaced.
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It sounds like your thermal fuse blew which is very cheap and easy to replace. Unplug your dryer and gain access to the back panel. Remove the panel and locate the thermal fuse. It is usually a white piece of plastic about 1/2" wide and 1 1/2" long with two wires attached to it. (Generally located near the bottom left as your looking at it) Unplug the two wires and unscrew the screw holding it in place. Replace it with the new one and reassemble everything. Good luck!
test by placing the end of ur meter prongs on the ends of the thermal fuse prong, 2 prongs with wires attached remove the wires and attach the meter prong, you should get a reading of continuity or OHMS NOT INFINITY the circuit must be closed not open
well replacing the thermal switch wouldn't cause the element to continue to work. Some timers continue to work til they've run out. Why do you think that the thermal cut off went out in the first place? Obviously it overheated, but it could've been a short that fed to the element and would continuously be on. I would check my wiring to find the initial source of the problem. Be careful
On a 4000 there is a thermal fuse at the base of the motor from the brush housing. They are cheap to replace. these are replacing fuses on alot of electronic devices. the fuse is a microtemp g7f01 110c.
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.(Thermal cut-off)
heres how i did it for anyone who experiences the same problem
1.) open back of unit(6 screws and pop tabs)
2.) with back cover open youll have access to compressor and fan-locate the blower assembly and remove the nut on it i used a 3/8 wrench from dollartree and rotated the blower fan while turning-its plastic be careful and remember righty tighty lefty loosey)
3.) with fan assembly off youll see the motor with 2 phillips head screws-taking these screws out with a power screwdriver allows the bearing assembly closest to the fan assembly,shaft,armeture and motor assembly to come out leaving rear bearing assembly attached to chassis
4.) once the motor assembly is completely out gently rest it against the fan hole and cut the silver tape being careful to ONLY cut the silver tape and the first white tape strip.
5.) youll see 3 wires and some insulator sleeves covering them leave everything alone except the ORANGE wire this wire attaches to the thermal fuse than to the windings
CAREFULLY heat up your soldering iron and remove the orange to thermal fuse connection than carefully thermal fuse to windings its a bit of a pain but can be done with patience
6.) remove original thermal fuse noting EXACTLY where original is placed on windings-it will have a small tape strip on it. replace it with one of EXACT OR NEAR THERMAL RATINGS a good choice is radioshack 270-1322. this thermal fuse is ratyed 10 amps max. but remember thermal fuses go by degree of heat and not by amp rating unless the amperage is in excess to melt the thermal material inside-my original fuse was 2 amps and 130 degrees celcius new fuse was 129degrees but plus minus 2 degrees so its a good choice and costs under 2 dollars
7.) place a heatsink clip or needlenose pliers between thermal fuse and solder connections BEFORE YOU SOLDER IT IN PLACE this prevents your 700 degree f iron from melting the fuse(remember its thermal not amperage were talking about here)
solder orange to thermal fuse with plastic extension than flat end to winding wire exactly opposite of how removed
8.) tape fuse in ORIGINAL LOCATION AS OLD FUSE i used scotch tape,place the thermal white protector piece on orange to fuse wire and push everything back down in original places-there should be no contact with any other wires etc. it will cause a fire
9.) once fuse is in place push tape you cut earlier back on and put 2 or 3 small scotch tape pieces of good length to secure the innards, lube the rear bearing of motor using vasoline- a few dollups will do it do the same for front slide motor winding assembly holding it in place than replace armeture with front bearing attaches as they came out secure the 2 screws back in place, put fan blade assembly back on(its keyed) secure nut and reassemble back
if you did everything correctly it will work like new just remember this time CLEAN YOUR FILTER SCREEN REGULARILY lol its critical for proper fan cooling
If im looking at my papers right, this unit is a stacker, correct? The element is directly behind the drum on Frigidaire units. You can I believe remove the top, then remove the front cover by removing two screws on the inside the hold it to the cabinet. I believe the element and thermal fuse should be able to be tested from the top. After you remove the top, the wiring should be on the right rear side. The thermal fuse is round, and has two wires going to it. It can be located on the element housing itself, or on the rear bulkhead. To test this fuse, you will need a meter that reads continuity (ohms). Just attach the leads and see if you get a reading (be sure to remove one of the wires). The element wiring should also be in the element housing. You will see the wires coming off the top (all by themselves, not attached to a thermostat). Testing will be the same way. If you have to replace the element you will need some help more than likely. The drums in Frigidaires pop out. You will have to remove the belt, then (with towels wrapped around your hands to keep all your skin) lift the rear of the drum up to pop it out of the bearing holder (like a ball joint). Then you just unscrew the element, and replace. Its not uncommon anymore for anything to break on these new units, in fact, 90% of my business is in warranty call, usually within 3 months of purchase. Sorry, but would rather be truthful than blow smoke. Good luck, and let me know if there is any other questions you may have.