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From the manual that came with it, the bearings are non-serviceable, and the whole brush roller needs to be replaced... Originally part 61445-1 was $15.89 + $5.50 postage & handling in the USA only. I don't know what it would be now.
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Hi Liz, if your brushes are still in good shape and do not need replacing then I would see if something else isn't broken or busted. You can always check for an obstruction in the brushes or remove the brush assembly & then reseat the brush assembly. Before doing so you should remove both Tanks from your Hoover. Then there are two buttons on top of the Nozzle Assembly that holds the brushes. You will need to release these two buttons on top, then tilt the handle of the unit backwards and this should let the brush assemble fall out of place. Inspect the brush assembly for any obstruction and even check to see if all the brushes still spin okay. If all looks good then align the post on top of the brush assembly with the hole on the bottom of the nozzle assembly and then snap the brush assembly back into place. I know this might sound crazy but did you first check to make sure that you did not have the switch set to "Wet\Dry Pickup." This will stop the brushes from turning as the switch needs to be in the other position to turn.
Hi! If you've replaced the turbine & gear assembly and the brushes are still not spinning, a replacement brush-block assembly may be needed. The brushes counter rotate and need each other to spin. If a single brush is falling out, the brush assembly is broken. If the whole brush assembly keeps falling out, the drive pin shaft may be damaged. To order a replacement brush-block follow the link below.
1. remove w/s wiper arms2. pull top cover from the wiper motor house, be sure to disconnect the w/s washer hoses.3. remove the 5 or 6, 8mm head bolts holding assembly to fire wall4. remove the sensor that is attached to assmembly on passenger side (2ea 8mm nuts)5. lift assembly and diconnect wires from motor and remove assembly.6. remove 3ea 10mm head bolts that hold motor to assembly.7. install new motor and reverse operation.
not good! if one holder is melting you most likley had a sticking or worn out brush. if both are sparking heavily id have to say the armature and or fields are bad. if only one is sparking im sure you can get a new brush holder assembly. try ereplacement.com they have a decent sight . hope this helps.
The brushes are usually replaceable from outside the drill. Make sure each spring is properly tensioned. Make sure the electrical outlet is live by trying a working lamp or other item. Pull the trigger full on and wiggle the cord where it goes into the plug--if the tool turns on intermittently, suspect a bad cord connection at the plug. Just replace the plug after cutting the cord back an inch or so. You can test the speed control by a temporary jumper across the module which should allow the tool to run full speed. Make sure the reversing switch is ok. Hope this helps!
The end of the brush assembly is a clip. You disconnect the wire that is attached, and then the clip will move sideways- when you get it over enough, the far side of the clip will come free because of the notches in the flat part of the clip. It takes patience and good lighting to get the new ones in.
It should be either just above the air conditioning compressor, or on the opposite side. It will have two wires coming out - a red wire ( 12 volt plus) and a black ground wire. The a/c compressor has metal fittings and rubber hoses as well as a clutch. No need to touch the a/c compressor.
I changed alternators on my 300D models and 300 SD. They are very much the same.
You will need to loosen the adjustment slider and physically slide the alternator to loosen the belt. Remove the wires from the alternator - probably a plug at the rear. If the car has a single serpentine belt the problem is more complex because so many units run off the same belt, including the water pump, fan and a/c compressor. Restoring proper tension is critical.
The alternator swings in a vertical arc on a long bolt on the bottom or side that runs from front to rear.
Replacement is not difficult - hold the new unit in place while you insert and tighten the long bolt, then reposition the tension slider and tighten that bolt. The tension needs to be correct or else the belt will slip and squeal and your battery will not charge properly.
You may need a crowbar the achieve the right tension while you tighten the tension slide.
Instead of replacing the alternator altogether, why not just replace the brush on a round plate at the rear. Most alternator failures involve worn brushes. The rebuilders simply replace them and sell a "rebuilt" unit.
Make sure you can get brushes and/or a brush assembly before you start.. Loosen the tension but do not remove the alternator. Remove the two small nuts that hold the brush assembly at the rear and slide it off. Replace with the new one.
Be sure you retract the brushes so they will slip back over the armature, and align with the retaining screws. Tighten them. Re-tension the belt and you're home free. I have done this on the road when necessary.
Easier and cheaper than changing the entire alternator.
Dear Xana,I have had problems like yours before. More times then not the roller brush "belt" got damaged and needed to be replaced. You should also check your roller brush and make sure it was not knocked out of alignment.
If neither of these solutions help,then it could be, your roller brush "Bearing Assembly"got damaged which would mean you need to either replace the "Bearing Assembly" if it is removable and if you can find that part.Or else you would need to replace the whole "Roller Brush".
You can normally tell if the "Bearing Assembly" is damaged by trying to turn the roller brush with your hands,if it takes a lot of force to make it turn,then theirs a good chance it was damaged!
These repairs are fairly easy to do, just read your Vacuum manual on replacing parts,also make sure you always have the vacuum unplugged while replacing parts or doing repairs.