Question about Fostex PM-1 MKII Main / Stereo Speaker

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Can't take the amplifier board from cabinet

Hi, My Fostex doesn't work recently. When I turn the power on, I can see the woofer was pushed back immediately, and the speaker gave low frequencies hum.

I want to take the amplifier board out. I loose all the screw on the board, but it looks the amplifier was sticked to the cabinet by glue. What is the trick to take the amplifier board out?

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The reason the woofer is pushed back is the power amplifier is sending DC voltage to it. This means that you have some kind of failure in the amp and need to have it serviced before you burn up the woofer, if you haven't already.

Posted on Apr 29, 2009

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Bose 321 power woofer buzzes but produces no audio sound


I assume the other two speakers are working fine. Contact Bose and ask them. Could be a simple fuse. Sounds like a fried speaker driver, but do this first. Take the back off and check the power amplifier for a blown fuse. If none, disconnect the power amplifier. Reconnect the speaker cabinet w/o the built-in power amplifier to a known good amplifier to see if the speaker works. If it works then you know its the built-in power amp that's fried. Contact Bose for a replacement or better yet buy a another one with a higher RMS watt capacity. Wattage ratings in other than RMS are worthless. JBL and Cerwin Vega produce high wattage units. You need to keep the volume lower to avoid the problem in the future.

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hi,
if ur amplifier have a pre out, then u can connect that to ur L/R input of ur sub woofer.

if not the only way is, connect ur amplifiers speaker output to sub woofers speaker input and then connect ur speaker to sub woofer speaker output terminal. remember don't inter change positive and negative wires.

if ur amplifier have speaker A,B connection then it is very easy. connect the speaker A to ur left and right speaker. then connect speaker B to ur sub woofer's left and right speaker input. be sure to make that speaker A and B switch is in on position. the power on both and check it. ( use good quality speaker cable to connect the sub woofer)

your sub woofer is designed to work , both at low level and high level input.
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I have a 200w Paradigm subwoofer that recently started a nasty feed back that sounds like an automatic machine gun. Is it a connetion problem or a something else


Do you have a habbit of turning your woofer up louder than listening to "clean" music? As you turn up the volume almost to the maximum, you should notice when the "clean" sounding music turns to "not clean" sounding music. Also known as "distortion". That "distortion" is actually your amplifiers inability to play louder than that point. When you turn up the volume past the point when the music sounds like it is "unclean" sounding music, your amplifier is pushing instructions to your woofer, but the woofer can't handle all the extra instructions and is damaging your woofer. And hense, over time, you can damage your woofer beyond repair.

If you can't find a loose connection, there are only 2 other possibilities. You wore out your amp. Or, more likely, you wore out your woofer. Or......Please, no......not that.......possibly both. Amps can be sent to the manufaturer for repair, but check craigslist before you spend on repair. I would focus on the woofer possibly being the worn piece. A high end audio shop will gladly take $15-30 from you to test your woofer and amp for you.Just tell them what you hear. They can also check all your connections for you.

Good luck.

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1 Answer

Mirage LF 150 Sub Woofer. sub not working


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Clipping occurs when an amplifier is pushed to create a signal with more power than its power supply can produce. The red light flashing is warning you that your are overdriving the amplifier located in your speaker cabinets. This can cause damage to your amplifier and or your speakers. You should not allow the volume level to exceed clipping.
For more information on clipping CLICK HERE
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I just finished repairing one of my VR960 units with a similar problem. My problem was that the sub would crackle no matter what input level. After changing a few of the active components, I finally discovered it to be a capacitor which was faulty. Anyway, I replaced the three 100uf 25V capacitors on the main board and all was well.

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The problem are worsen that before. It is wisely to replace both left and right amplifier
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I'm not familiar with your specific model, but some of these have fuses for the woofers. Check for a blown safety fuse. Also, verify that the connections to the crossover board are in good shape. These crossovers are not that complex and don't usually fail. Keep us posted on what you find.
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