An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: How do I align beds on Jet jointer?
I found on some jointer/planers that this problem, is the way its designed. you can adjust the two feeds close but not close enough. what your supposed to do is push the wood thru one side with pressure on top and side(right hand), then when it touches blade slowly but steadily switch pressure part on the outfeed side. when you think anout it you are cutting an L shaped notch(until the end) so you dont want the side to be exactly parallel. table top jointers are tricky to use.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
With any of these portable planers, the sniping can be a problem that you can minimize. Of course you can use a board longer than you need... but more practically: 1. Take light cuts 2. Make sure your infeed and outfeed tables are at the same height and are parallel to the suface of the machine below the cutter. 3. Provide additional in-feed and out-feed support beyond the little in-feed and out-feed tables to keep your material moving consistently in the same plane from start to finish. you might use support rollers. Take care to get the whole setup adjusted all in one plane. Good luck.
The most important part of the jointer is that the cutting edge is perfectly level with the out feed table, then, bring up the infeed table, with straight edge on rear, make all adj necessary to get these things lined up flat, not level, but flat, straight, even. Then it will cut perfectly flat and even. no snipes,. Hope this helps.
Lower the in feed table to keep it clear of your work, hold a straight edge on the out feed table, both sides, adj the knives to just touch the straight edge, both sides the same, all knives set the same, should work like a charm, do not answer the phone while you are doing this. check all jib screws twice to make sure they are tight. Hope this helps.
Adjusting a jointer to relieve snipe can be trickey but here are a few procedures that will help.
-The two tables on the jointer are adjustable, the front (infeed) is what you adjust for cut depth.
- The back (outfeed) needs to be the exact hieght as your knives
The outfeed needs to be adjusted first
-using a straight edge on the outfeed table adjust it so that when you turn the head (counter clockwise) the knives just touch the staight edge (NOTE** all the knives should touch the straight edge the same, if not your knives are not set correctly) This is your most important adjustment, if the outfeed is to high or to low it will cause inconsistant jointing.
-Now that the outfeed is trued up to the head you can adjust the infeed table, using the straight edge align it so that it is perfectly lined up with the outfeed table (not touching the kinives) Your jointer is now at ZERO
You can now adjust the infeed for depth of cut, Start by lowering the infeed a very small amount (1/16 of a inch to start)
The biggest problem I have seen is that people try to cut to much at one time, it will work alot better if you take several small cuts instead of one deep cut.
Also- getting the knives set perfectly in the head is a key to success, if this is not happening you WILL have jointing problems. ALSO if the knives are not sharp they will pull the material down causing snipe.
I really hope this helps and if you need a visual aid try looking it up on you tube.
I have used my jointer for numerous different projects, Here is a cool one for tapered table legs.
Take a piece of square stock (like 2x2 ) about 3 feet long, make a mark about 2 foot up and wrap a piece of tape around it at the mark.
now make a mark (we will call it a stop mark) on the fence of the jointer by the head.
with a pencil and number the edges on the 2x2 (above the tape so you dont joint them off)
turn on jointer and run side 1 until your tape is at the fence mark, carefully lift 2x2 and do the same to the 2 side.
only joint the #1 & #2 sides, run several more times and you will have a perfect tapered leg.
The majority of jointers even cheap chinese imports have 3" or 4" hand cranks for both infeed and outfeed adjustments. The gibs can usually be adjusted when needed even on cheap jointer planers.
The rigid website has a support page and product parts and manual download.
If the download doesnt work call them and insist that they e-mail or mail a paper copy.
Most jointer planers are somewhat similiar in design and appearance.
Some power tool instruction manuals from competitors may have more complete step by step instructions.
The problem you are describing is called "snipe" and it can be caused by alot of different things. Even the best woodworkers have to fight this problem.
- you did the right thing by making sure that the matrial is supported, but if the oppisite side of the board is'nt true it will carry over onto the face. The only way to "true" a board is to use a jointer.
-when jointing a board you only want to do one side(face or back) and one edge,then it is ready for the planner.
-Now for solutions other than jointing-
1) Make sure that the infeed table and bed plate are clean, and wax or lube so that the board moves freely.
2) Try taking a lighter cut.
3) try a different piece of wood to see if it is only affecting that material (wood that is bowed is more likely to snipe) If it is bowed try feeding the material with the bow down..
4) make sure material is supported
Also your machine may have a bedplate adjustment to help with snipe you will have to look at the manual to find out.
If you take a close look at your machine you will notice that the length of the snipe is also the distance from your rollers to your knives, This means that the board is not laying flat and is being pushed up into the head until it can be supported by the next feed roll.
First off, the stripped screw may be a major problem. If it is just the screw threads that are stripped, you are in luck. Try getting something under the screw head as you turn it out and pry at the same time (a putty knife maybe). Once out you can check both sets of threads (male & female).
You should not have needed to adjust the tables unless they were out of alignment from the factory or had been in use a long time. The first thing to re-do, is align the tables properly. Once that is done you can then go back to re-setting the knives.
My other suggestion is to ask someone who has knowledge in this to give you a hand. Maybe a local woodworker or woodshop or high school shop teacher.
a jointer includes infeed and outfeed tables. A set of rotating blades is positioned between these two blades. A fence is set on one side of the jointer to serve as a guide. The infeed table and outfeed table are adjusted so that they are parallel, but the infeed table is slightly lower thereby exposing a small amount of the cutting blades. The woodworker then presses the lumber against the infeed table and pushes it onto the outfeed table; the rapidly spinning blades remove a small amount of material. If the wood is particularly warped, several passes on the jointer may be required.