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There are several possible causes of this problem, aside from a loose or damaged wire, which is uncommon. The cause in about 95% of the cases is a thermopile that has gone bad. The thermopile is the small cylinder that is attached to the pilot assembly where part of the pilot flame can contact it. It has a cable or wire going to the gas valve, high limit switch, or both. When hot enough, it produces and electrical current that keep the pilot on and allows the main gas valve to open. Be sure that you have a good pilot flame. The pilot may need to be cleaned or adjusted. The thermopile is not hard to replace in most gas fryers and not too expensive. This often starts as an intermittent problem. The second possible cause is a defective high limit. The high limit is a small rectangular device with wires going to the gas valve and a tiny stainless tube that goes through the bottom of the kettle to a sensor bulb, like the thermostat has. These are usually self resetting, but may have a small red reset button. If present check the reset. If no reset, jump the two wires and see if the fryer will now light. If so, the high limit is defective, assuming the fryer is not over temperature. If defective, replace. Do not operate the fryer in this condition as there is no over temperature protection. The next cause is if the oil is too hot, in which case the high limit will shut off both the main burner and the pilot. The pilot cannot be relit until the fryer cools down and the high limit resets. If the oil is too hot, usually over 425F, replace the thermostat. If the high limit trips when the oil is in the normal operating range, replace the high limit. The final cause is a bad gas valve. This is not too common, but the gas valve is expensive and a bit difficult to replace. Check all of the other causes first.
This symptom indicates something wrong with the millivolt system. Start by checking the wires from the thermopile to the gas valve, insuring they are all tight and in place. Check the hi limit thermostat, if you have an ohm meter it should read .1 or .2 across it. With you meter set to dc millivolts, and flame present on the pilot, read across the thermocouple wires (red and white) to see the millivolts generated, with the thermostat off and the gas valve in pilot position you should get approx 600 millivolt plus minus 50. The pilot will have to be on for a minute or so to get maximum millivolts. If the millivolts are correct, hi-limit closed, and all wiring is connected, you likely have a faulty gas valve. If the hi limit reads more than .1 or .2 replace the limit, if you are not getting the millivolts from the thermopile, replace it.
Check if the gas pressure is of rated pressure as stated on unit's nameplate. Make sure that the thermopile is free of soot or any form of dirt, a clean thermopile will absorb as much heat from pilot flame as it needs to generate small amount of voltage to energize pilot and main valve coils of the gas valve. The pilot flame quality must be good. Hi limit must have continuity across its terminals when tested with an ohm meter.
Check if there is 500 to 750 millivolts across the thermopile wires; thermopile generates 500 to 750 millivolts if properly heated to energize pilot and main valve solenoids of the gas valve for pilot and main burner operation. If the voltage across the thermopile is good and all wiring connections are ok, I think you have to replace the gas valve. Regards.
I would guess about 120-150F for the oil. There is a screw under a cap on the gas valve that you can use to regulate the pilot, but this is not recommended. The flame must be high enough to heat the thermopile sufficiently so that the pilot will stay on and the main valve actuate. For better or worse, most gas fryers are designed to keep solid shortning in a liquid state when off and to safely melt it overnight. If you need the oiler cooler, say for filtering, I suggest just turning off the pilot.
This problem could be caused by a few different things. You should check the condition of your pilot and the thermocouple, if the pilot is weak due to being dirty you will not generate the optimum Millivolts to run the fryer, you may need to dissassemble and clean the pilot. The thermocouple needs to be correctly placed in the pilot assembly, if it has dropped down to where it is not in the flame it will not work correctly. You may need a new thermopile as it may not be generating millivolts as needed. Gas pressure can cause this as well, if the pilot goes out then the main burners come on you should check the gas pressure. One more thing to check is the hi-limit thermostat, if this is cutting out early your pilot will go out. Imperial uses a self-resetting limit, after a few minutes your fryer will relight and work until if cuts out again. If your fryer pilot stay on with the thermostat off for long periods of time and does not go out immediately when the burners come on and the pilot is clean, you may need a hi limit. This is a lot of info, I hope it helps.
Hi, Probably the thermocouple. It will be right at the pilot light and hooks to the gas valve. The pilot heats it up to tell the gas valve that the pilot is working. If this is an electronic ignition, It will be the flame sensor still close to the pilot and will need cleaned or replaced. Hope this helps.