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917.28745 jumps in/out of high speed while mowing. I have changed everything in fuel line including carburator. Could it be in exhaust system or maybe in the linkage????? please help

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: high idle/low idle pattern

This issue is caused by the egr valve being stuck open, more than likely. Just remove it and clean the plunger on it. Also clean out the two ports that are in the intake. Check out saturnfans.com for more information. I hope this helps.

Posted on Dec 09, 2008

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SOURCE: 1992 Chrysler LeBaron 3.0 L.

the owner probably rerouted the fuel line because like my 92 chrysler lebaron v6 3.0 the fuel lines keep seeming to come off and the clamps always break. I have replaced the clamps 5 times in a month and replaced filters 2 times in 2 months. The only thing i could think of is that your fuel is being cut off possibly because there is no filter to clean all the junk out. Try putting a fuel filter on and see if that will work

Posted on Feb 09, 2009

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SOURCE: Have YTH 150 motor turns not starting.

If I understand, you were mowing and it just stopped running. The motor didn't sieze up, it turns over. Okay and you have spark, and you have gas, have you checked the safety switches. there is one under the seat, the blades, the brake pedal when starting. Make sure that these safety switches are working properly. that is the next step I would take.

Posted on Aug 08, 2009

dontbother10
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SOURCE: Echo pole saw boggs aand wont reach high rpm. I

If you must choke it for it to run it is lean. Have you attempted a carburetor adjustment? Start with "H" and "L" at 1.5 CCW from lightly seated. Then try this:
Carburetor Adjustment by Madsens.com
http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm
CW is leaner; to lean will destroy the saw. If over tightened closed (CW) the adjustment screw faces are easily marred; marred adjustments are difficult to impossible to set properly.
Clean the air filter; adjusting with a dirty filter can cause a run lean condition once cleaned and the saw run.

There are 2 wav (sound - idle & full – not highlighted) files that I find most helpful, I think you will too.

An air leak where the carburetor bolts to the engine or the intake manifold can also cause this. If an adjustment does not or has not fixed this I suggest you try your friendly neighborhood Stihl shop. Explain everything you have done to a mechanic there. Good saw shops pressure test the crankcase, fuel lines, and intakes. They have test equipment homeowners do not. Explain what you have already done and ask for a repair estimate. I think you will be pleasantly surprised. Not all small engine mechanics are created equal... why I recommend Stihl. The odds of finding a good mechanic at a certified Stihl shop are in your favor. If not already using 50:1 fuel mix, please ask the Stihl shop what they recommend. Echo on their site has a statement equivalent to "regardless of what your manual says use 50:1". HTH
Lou

Posted on Jan 03, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks for the advice. I dont see any adjustment screws for high or low on this carb. Its on a ppf 210- Echo power pruner"

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SOURCE: echo shred n vac starts,idles, runs to about half power then bogs

Check the grommet that sits on top of tank where lines from go carb. Grommet may be rotten and crack. Try that. Have you ever replace the carb repair kit? The diaphram may be torn, defoam or have holes in them. Carb kit cost arount $10, but don't mess with the welch plug or screen in carb.

Posted on Feb 22, 2010

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Runs well for a shot tims then stalls at high arpiems itnis not the carbs or fuel pumps could it be the coil


Not the carbs, not the fuel pumps, maybe the fuel delivery volumes to the carbs by the fuel pumps. A restriction can cause the engine to suck the carburators fuel bowls dry if not enough volume of fuel is delivered. Do a fuel volume test

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Sears troubleshooting


Sounds as if the Carb is "leaning out", I would clean carb with carb cleaner and compressed air while opening / closing throttle use fresh fuel then start engine. If you still have problems, make sure you don't have an air leak between the gaskets-- always use new gaskets on reassembly. Your problem should be solved

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Already changed coil, plugs,plug wires,distributor cap and roto, still skips when really hot outside


Check the following:
Cooling system working properly including fans.
Under hood fuel lines touching coolant or heater hoses.
Fuel lines under vehicle close to or not shielded from exhaust pipe, converter, muffler.
Fuel filter changed recently.
Fuel pump pressure.
Cheap gas.

I assume you are running the A/C. Which makes underhood temps higher. So what are your volts at the battery with everything running when this "skipping" occurs. Could be the alternator volts and/or amp output has decreased with age. This would cause the fuel pump to run a bit slower, reducing fuel pressure. Which could lead to fuel boiling somewhere in high heat areas. Do you have any other electrical loads like large stereo amps, fog/driving lights etc.

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guarantee exhaust is clogged maybe not muffler but exhaust port pull muffler off check screen and muffler then look into exhaust port usually rectangular port is closed down with carbon pull starter slowly to lower piston then scrape out carbon with screwdriver clean as good as possible then blow cylinder out make sure to get all pieces of carbon out reassemble should run fine

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The bike peaks at around 90 have problems passing its a bit sluggish want to bump up top end speed and take off speed


If it's a stock bike, you can change the air breather, carburator, camshafts, and exhaust systems. Lots of High Performanc parts available if legal in your area.

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Wehn I'm riding at speeds of 55 to 60 mph, my


This is a typical fuel stravation at tht speed,time for a tune up and carburator cleaning, fuel line and the fuel pump check and prolly overhauls.

Good luck.
Knight (Yamaha Seca XJ750A 1981)

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