Question about Water Heaters
There is a slow leak at the top of my gas water heater. It seems to be filling the areas around the out line and the pressure relief valve.
Presumably you are referring to a water leak - not gas. The pooled water could be condensate from a "sweating" pipe but, depending upon the age of the heater, it may be time to replace it
Posted on Apr 24, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Most likely only one of the pipes is leaking but weaping enough to cover the top and indented places near both inlet and outlet. This leak has most likely penetrated all the insulation and is a problem throughout the tank wrap insulation...If you are able to blow air continuously long enough to determine which connection is leaking then fix it. It will likely to take quite a while to dry out all the insulation if the water has migrated down into the tank wrap... If you determine that the insulation is waterlogged, you may be able to drill several small holes in the external cover.
Posted on Jan 06, 2009
Turn off the electric and drain the tank. Completely remove the exit valve that is leaking and clean up the threads on the valve and in the hole. Get some plumbers dope and dope up the fitting threads and the threads in the hole and then reattach the exit valve. As a real precaution you may consider taking the plastic valve to the hardware store and getting a replacement one. Also dope that one up good.
Posted on Apr 27, 2009
It's gas operation only, but has electronic ignition for propane. ( just to confirm, if you look at back of water heater, it would have a metal or black plastic cover and hydro cable going in side or top of it.)
There are usually 3 things that may cause pressure relief to leak. 1) Faulty,corroded pressure relief valve, which usually needs to be replaced if it goes faulty. 2) water temperature is getting too hot, which could indicate a faulty thermostat. 3) If your hooked up to city water, the pressure may be too high, causing excess pressure build up in hot water tank, thus pressure relief opens. If your running off your on board pump, this is probably not the cause, as they are usually set at 40 psi.
Ist, - try pulling lever on relief valve slightly open ( careful it's hot !!) to clean out any calcium that may be logged on seal thus causing leak. If that doesn't do it, and the hot water isn't running out steady and appear to be under extreme pressure while leaking, then I'd change the pressure relief valve. Remember when you do, shut off water to system, and relieve pressure by opening a tap, and pressure relief as well after that. New one shouldn't be too expensive, just make sure you get same thread, 1/2"NPT or 3/4"NPT. Use a little teflon tape, or pipe dope whatever you prefer when re-installing as well as clean threads a little before.
If it really starts gushing out pressure relief when heating or heated, and water seems hotter than normal, it's more than likely a faulty thermostat. I'll wait for your reply on what condition your experiencing before I go in to how to change the thermostat.
Posted on Nov 17, 2010
12 year old water heater is getting near the end.
Some tanks last 20 years, but that's the exception.
To find exact age of your brand water heater:
Leaking TP valve:
1) Lift TP lever and gently lower back into position to see if that stops leak.
Occasionally something gets stuck in the valve.
2) Sometimes water heater temperature gets turned up because heater is not producing as much hot water as before, and higher temps cause TP to release pressure because of overheating.
Dial temperature down to 120 degrees.
3) If steps above don't fix problem, replace TP valve >> TP valves have 125 or 150 degrees rating >>> older tank shouldn't be running above 125 because higher temps cause more pressure on tank, so thermostat should be lower than 125 degrees TP rating.
Buy replacement TP at any hardware store + a roll of teflon tape to seal pipe threads.
Turn gas control to pilot ... this will keep pilot lit but burner will not fire.
Let water cool, and then drain some water out of tank.
If TP valve is on side of tank, then open drain on side of tank and drain water until it is lower than valve level. Open bathtub spigot to let air into line.
Be careful around water that is higher than 120 degrees F >> you can get burned quickly >> apply cold water to any burn.
Use pipe wrench and unscrew TP valve counterclock-wise.
Install new TP and put teflon tape on threads.
Re-fill tank completely and open tub valve on hot side until water is running >> then turn gas control back to original position.
Do not fire up any water heater before tank is completely full of water or this could damage tank.
To read more preventative information about water heater leaks and age problems:
Posted on Nov 25, 2010
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Hot water pressure relief valves serve two functions. The first is to remove high-pressure water from the hot water tank. The second function is to act as a high temperature valve to remove water that exceeds a predetermined point for the valve. Both of these relief settings are preset at the valve factory. Many pressure relief valves will come with a metal tag that identifies these release points. If you're attempting to remove the hot water heater pressure relief valve, pay careful attention to ensure that you replace with the correct valve.
Your hot water heater has a pressure relief valve safety mechanism. When pressure inside the water tank exceeds certain limitations, the valve opens up to allow the pressure to be released. A faulty pressure relief valve will not release excess pressure, which could cause extensive damage to your home. You should test the hot water heater pressure relief valve once every six months to ensure proper operation. If the pressure relief valve fails the test, replace the valve with a new one immediately
Locate the pressure relief valve on your hot water heater. The pressure relief valve has a lever handle on top with a drain pipe attached to it. The pressure relief valve is most often on the side of the water tank toward the top. Newer models of hot water heaters have the pressure relief valve on top of the water tank.
Inspect the area around the pressure relief valve for signs of leaking water. If there is leaking water near the relief valve connection, replace the relief valve. If no leaking is evident, proceed with testing the pressure valve.
Examine the area below the pressure relief valve drain pipe. Most water heater closets either have a drain in the floor below the pipe or the pipe is inserted into another pipe to direct the water out of the home. If the end of your drain pipe is not in another pipe or there is no drain in the floor, place a bucket under the drain pipe to catch water when you test the pressure relief valve.
Pull the lever handle on the top of the pressure relief valve up with your fingers. A working lever will lift up without difficulty.You should begin to hear water going through the drain pipe. Slowly release the lever to shut off the pressure relief valve. The pressure relief valve is good. If you did not hear water running through the drain pipe, lower the lever on the pressure relief valve and replace the valve. If the lever is difficult to raise, do not force the lever. Replace the pressure relief valve.
Feb 04, 2011 | Whirlpool Water Heaters
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