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Can not tighten the chain because the screw is bent.

The chain guard adjusting screw is bent so that I can not adjust the chain. This is a plastic piece that holds the chain in place. I tried to buy the part and can not find a dealer. The screw is attached to plastic and I am afraid that I will break the piece if I try to straigthen the screw.

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  • Anonymous Apr 10, 2009

    The plastic "lip" that holds the adjusting screw in BROKE! Now I find out that Remington has gone out of business. How can I get the chain guard (since that has the screw in it). I assume I need to replace that entire plastic cover - there's no way to fix the plastic lip. I have the 16" Model M30016AS - it's less than 6 months old!

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6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Poulan Farmhand chainsaw chain tightens too tight for motor to move chain

Make sure the chain is not over tightened. When adjusting the tightness, ensure there is at least 1/8" of looseness by pulling up on the chain in the middle of the bar and releasing it. If a chain becomes overheated because of leaning on the saw when the chain is dull, or lack of oil on the chain, it may expand in the track and not turn freely.
Marlyn, Mountain, Ont. Canada

Posted on Oct 03, 2008

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: poulan pro with tooless chain tightening - chain will not stay on

i have a 4620 poulan that had the same problem. use it for 10 minutes, spend 15 minutes reinstalling the chain. i sent poulan an email threatening to sue them and they decided to send me the parts to change it over to the old style for free. try poulan.com

Posted on Apr 27, 2009

steve_lima
  • 181 Answers

SOURCE: Is it possible to adjust the chain break & how to do it.

hate to say this,but,there is no way to adjust the tension on the brake band.either the spring is weak or the brake band is broken.either can be changed but it's not easy.spring is under a lot of tension and can fly out when taking it apart or installing,you can get the entire cover as a unit if so desired...hope this helps,let me know

Posted on May 13, 2009

  • 323 Answers

SOURCE: The chain on my chain saw is slack.

The adjusting screw is usually found on the right side of the saw close to the bar, near the bottom. You will need to loosen the two nuts on the side that hold the bar tight. Loosen them until the bar lifts up and down (about 1/2") with your finger.

There should be a combination spark plug wrench and screwdriver that came with your saw. If not, use a slot screwdriverto tighten the chain while you hold the bar up with two fingers.

When adjusted properly, there should be no hanging slack in the chain when it is warm. It should rest just against the bar so that you can grasp it with gloves on and pull it toward you.

When it is tightened thusly, tighten the two side nuts while holding the bar up with two fingers. If you don't tighten the two nuts enough, it will loosen and the chain will have slack again shortly.

Remember that the hotter the chain gets, the looser it will be. Make sure your chains is getting plenty of bar oil. Never use regular motor oil.

Posted on Jun 08, 2009

  • 10865 Answers

SOURCE: Chain moves while idle

Hello there. Regarding the bar oil, many loggers plan their work so that they are out of bar oil at the same time that they quit for the day because bar oil has a tendency to leak. Another method that has some success is to mix your bar oil with a heavier oil but the trade off might be less lube getting to the chain when you need it.

Regarding the chain moving in idle, this is another common problem. You can usually slow the idle down until the chain stops, as you indicated, but I too have had chain saws where I finally just decided to live with it and be extra attentive to what was going on.

Posted on Jun 11, 2009

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Hi Mr. Martin:
Not quite sure what kind of adjustments you want to do.
All the chain saws that I've experience with have two slotted screws, one high speed, and one low speed. There may also be an idle stop adjustment screw.
Adjustments typically consist of:
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2) with the engine running, increase throttle to maximum rpm and then adjust high speed by leaning (screw in) until maximum rpm starts to drop off, then back out 1/3 turn.
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There is typically an adjustment on the chain that allows you to tighten the chain as it stretches with time.

The adjuster should look like a piece of threaded rod that is in-line with the chain. It should have a nut on it that takes a 7/16" or 1/2" open-end wrench to tighten or loosen the chain.

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Because thus is a chain with a sprocket at the motor end and another sprocket at the door end, sometimes more slack in the chain is required to get it seated properly in both sprockets. A helper may be required to help you get the chain in both sprockets simultaneously without too much slack in the chain between sprockets, but with just enough slack to prevent binding.

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