Question about Frigidaire FPHB2899LF
After a power outage panel shows IC small e and E3
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Of necessity, this is going to be a very LONG answer, BUT... it COULD save you from buying another fridge. There could be several causes for your issue, but the most likely is a blockage [usually a buildup of "frost"] of/in the duct that carries cold air from the freezer compartment to the fridge compartment.
Not all, but MOST refrigerators work by having two controls for the two zones [freezer and fridge sections]. The first control [an actual thermostat] is for the freezer, and is what actually turns the compressor on and off. The other control is for a "damper" in the duct [or, SOMETIMES controls an in-duct FAN] from the freezer to the fridge section.
The compressor system cools the freezer, and the refrigerator section is cooled by transferring colder air from the freezer.
The freezer control should be set to keep the freezer at about minus 10 degrees Fahrenheit to about zero degrees. Then the fridge damper control [usually the control with the letters A, B, C, and D] is usually set to about the MIDDLE position, hopefully to keep the fridge section about 34 or 35 degrees to a max of about 38 degrees.
SINCE you say that the FREEZER IS operating PROPERLY, I suspect that the DUCT that is supposed to supply cold freezer air to the fridge is somehow blocked, and this is usually caused by an accumulation of FROST [frozen water VAPOR] in the duct. Note, and write down the "settings" for BOTH controls. You'll need these later to restart the fridge.
Although the "fix" is a pain in the ____ it is not that difficult. Here are the steps to correct:
1. Get one or more ice chests/coolers.
2. Remove ALL contents from the freezer and place together in one, or if necessary two of the coolers well covered by bag ice to preserve the contents. Put a couple of bowls, or anything, in the bottom first to keep the frozen stuff above water from the melting ice. Then pack the frozen stuff very tightly with as little open space as possible. Then pour crushed ice on top. Several times a day, drain the melt water from the drain on all the ice chests, and as necessary, add ice to replace that which melted.
3. Do the same thing with everything from the fridge section.
4. Then turn OFF the refrigerator, and CLEAN both the fridge and freezer VERY WELL. IF you don't clean both the freezer and fridge WELL you will get mold, mildew, and probably an offensive odor!
5. Then PROP the freezer AND fridge doors open AT LEAST a couple of inches, or MORE if possible. This will allow warmer household air inside. IF you have a portable fan to blow house air into the fridge section that will cause the frost to melt faster.
In a house with no air conditioning, in the summer, the blocked duct should thaw in well less than 24 hours. If you have air conditioning and no fan circulating air into/through the fridge it could take 2 or 3 days, but in any case, after 3 days, you should be ready to test the fridge.
6. Plug the fridge back into the wall outlet, set both the freezer thermostat and the fridge control back to their original settings when the fridge was cooling properly. [AGAIN I remind you that, at the very beginning, make note of, and write down the settings for both the freezer thermostatic control, and the fridge duct control]
7. Place a thermometer on a middle shelf of the fridge [and if possible, one in the freezer also] and check it/them after about 4 to 8 hours.
IF a frost blockage was the cause of the failure, the fridge should now be cooling properly again and when the fridge temperature gets down to below 36 or 37 degrees [F], then you can replace all the stuff into the fridge. IF none of the freezer stuff has thawed, then that can be replaced in the freezer. IF any has thawed, then cook it properly, and you can freeze it again if you want.
I know this is a lot of work, BUT... it sure is A WHOLE LOT LESS EXPENSIVE than replacing a refrigerator that DOESN'T NEED REPLACING!!!!!
Posted on Jun 30, 2011
Did you go to diagnostic mode yet
Posted on Jul 04, 2015
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Nov 07, 2017 | Frigidaire Refrigerators
Dec 22, 2015 | Samsung Refrigerators
Good Morning friend, thank you for your post!
I see that your Frigidaire refrigerator is displaying an "OP" error code and you want to know what it means. An "OP" could stand for open thermistor. This could be a possible problem with your thermistor or control panel. In any case that it is a false error code I would recommend performing a reset on your refrigerator and you can do that by unplugging the power cord for roughly ten minutes. If that does not help resolve your issue I would suggest consulting with a professional technician for proper diagnosis. Hopefully this is helpful information. -Matt
Feb 12, 2015 | Frigidaire Refrigerators
Hello friend, thank you for your post!
I understand that your Electrolux refrigerator is showing an "E3" error code. However, it appears "E3" is an invalid error code. May I have you model number please? Typically you can locate your serial tag (which lists your model number) on the inside cabinet of the fresh food compartment on the right hand side. With this information I can better assist you with pinpointing the issue. I look for forward to assisting you. -Matt
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