I'm not familiar with your exact product, but Parts Express sells all sorts of replacement in-speaker amplifiers. I've replaced several powered subwoofer amplifiers with their products, and the customers usually report-back that it sounds better than when new. You might want to check them out, and see if they have one that will fit.
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You will have to try to find the damaged component(s), which means disassembling the speaker. Once you find what parts need to be replaced, you can order them from an electronics supplier such as Digi Key or Mouser. Replace the components and continue from there, as additional troubleshooting may be required.
is the difference between bi-wiring and bi-amping?
Bi-wiring is using the same power source (amplifier) but
connecting that power source to a woofer and a
midrange/tweeter on a
Bi-amping is using two separate power sources (amplifiers)
connecting one amplifier to a woofer and the other amplifier
midrange/tweeter on a speaker.
How do I bi-wire?
Your speaker must have two separate positive and negative
connections (one set for the woofer and one set for the
midrange/tweeter). Connect one wire between the positive
the amplifier/receiver the positive terminal on the speaker.
the other wire from the negative terminal on the
to the corresponding negative terminal on the speaker.
jumper straps connecting the two sets of speaker inputs.
process for the second set of terminals on the speaker,
them to the same positive and negative terminals on the
receiver/amplifier. Repeat the steps for each speaker you
Bi-Wire, connecting them to the appropriate terminals on
How do I bi-amp? Bi-amping is similar to bi-wiring, but involves
amplifiers: one for the woofer and one for the
Passive bi-amping involves a direct hookup between each
and the speaker terminals. True bi-amping involves hooking
preamp to an electronic crossover that replaces the passive
crossover network in the speaker. The active crossover then
to multiple power amplifiers.
Check the speaker first. If found OK, the internal amplifier stage circuit to the set is faulty. If the speaker is found damaged, here too the internal amplifier circuit fault; a direct short circuit. If so, without rectifying that fault; never connect a speaker in place, as there is chance to the speaker that you connect too will get burned.
It will be best to contact any service technician in this case; I suggest.
If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Pull up older posts. Surf the site with patience. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
Unfortunately it does sounds like there has been a system overload. Your speaker is an active system meaning it has its own power unit inside. Somewhere in the internal amplifier there has been a circuit burned. I have copied the link to the contact page for the stereo repair search website. If you will do a search for your state information, this site will locate a repair service near you.
On the sound pcb attached to main pcb in the seperate box are two 1uf, 50 volt surface mounted elec caps. These go leaky, and sometimes take the chip with them. You will need the right gear to do this job. £12 .00 for parts including chip.
You don't say anything about your passive speaker, only thing that I understand you have a Yamaha AX-396 witch have an Power output of 60 watts per channel into 8 ohms (stereo)! That means working great with your passive speaker!!!
If your volume is down and there's a hum, then it could be that your capacitors in the power supply are blown. Also there could be a problem with the bridge rectifier, possible that there's 1 or more diode's defect. Any technician can reapir that.