Question about Kitchen Ranges
My gas range will periodically flash the F30 on the screen and shut the stove down. I have to unplug in order to reset the alarm. What does this code mean? How do I fix it? Thank
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Your f30 problem may be a bad sensor circuit. It may have an open connection or just plain defective sensor. Check the connection between the clock and the sensor as well as disconnect and measure the resistance of the sensor - should be about 1090ohms at room temp (75F)
Posted on Sep 04, 2008
I was baking and the stove suddenly changed to Maxi Broil and then to ERR F2EO Stuck Key. I cannot seem to change it by start or off or even turning the unit off and then back on. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Posted on May 29, 2009
The problem seems related to the sensor switch. The immediate solution was such a simple fix, I couldn't believe it.
Turn power breaker OFF for the range. This is a step you shouldn't NEVER skip, or you could DIE.
Gently pull range out of the slide in area into the kitchen
Unscrew the metal back panel of the range.
Facing the back of the range, you should press the red button between two wire mounts until it clicks. Be careful, and try not to touch ANY wires when you do this.
Turn breaker back ON.
If you didn't unplug the stove, the oven should still be locked, but will unlock immediately when you hit the CLEAR/OFF button on the control panel on the fron of the range.
Keep in mind that this is only a TEMPORARY solution and would probably occur again the next time you clean the oven. Try replacing the sensor switch for a longer term solution. You can order one for less than $20. I will buy it from the website that includes the most comprehensive instructions for replacing the item for this range type. Any suggestions?
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
replace the entire range: Jennair does not know how to design, make, or program electronics. It makes steel boxes that provide heat but electronics - that's not within their ability. Buy a Kenmore or a GE and your beeping problem will go away.
Posted on Aug 31, 2009
SOURCE: i have a f30 error
OK - here's a little tip that might save you a bundle of cash:
The Frigidaire glasstop slide-in Range model # PLES389ECH has a habit of triggering a F30 error, which according to the NEW table of error codes (http://www.applianceaid.com/faultcodes3.html), implies an issue with either the Electronic Oven Control (EOC) panel (located beneath the Control Panel Assembly), or the temperature probe itself (located within the main oven cavity, back wall, upper-left corner). However, a quick glance at page 12 of the Factory Parts Catalog's wiring diagram (http://www.youserguide.com/wiki/Frigidaire_PLES389ECH or http://www.serviexcell.com.mx/manuales/PLES389ECH.pdf) shows two thermal breakers wired into the circuit as well.
To check the probe, disconnect power and either pull the probe from the cavity of the oven (two screws, and a disconnect plug) and measure resistance across the probe, or take the Control Panel Assembly off the front (remove 4 cooktop control knobs and 4 teflon mounting nuts) and measure resistance at the EOC P5 quick-disconnect plug (violet wires - see wiring diagram)...it should read approx. 1091 Ohms at room temperature per ApplianceAid's table. If you measured at the probe, an open (infinite resistance) or short (zero resistance) indicates a bad probe. Replace for about $40.00 (per http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5160618).
If you get an open or short by measuring at the P5 plug, the issue is either the probe OR the thermal breakers. Also called a Thermal Cutout Switch (item #141 on p.8 of your parts catalog), one of these buggers is located near the electronic control module for the right rear stovetop burner (#54A, follow the violet wires from EOC to locate it) - since you already have the Control Panel Assembly pulled, reach over and push the button on the breaker to reset it. This may have just solved your error code! For FREE!! If it doesn't reset, you may have to replace the breaker itself (around $16.00).
However, if you measured at the plug and get the appropriate resistance for the entire circuit it's likely that your breakers, probe and wiring harness (always check for disconnected wiring) are fine, and that the problem lies with the EOC itself. This pricey gizmo runs a little over $200. My sympathies.
Good luck! Feel free to mail me any contributions should you save yourself a $350+ service call. :)
Posted on Sep 01, 2010
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