Question about LG WM2455HG XL Front Load Stackable Washing Machine with 9 Washing Programs
Makes noise when draining or circulating
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: I have a LG TROMM 4.0 WM2277HW
Thanks to other info gathered from this site and
a few quality hours with the washer, I solved this problem for myself.
I experienced exactly the same problem. Did the same things. OE error Drain pump would not drain. Sounded like it was grinding a bit. Just not draining. Checked the strainer. Nothing. I found this link to the service repair manual which has easy to follow instructions on how to disassemble the washer and get to the pump. Removing the door and the pumps is really not that hard.
Don't be scared. I'm a novice and it was easy. Wear gloves. Lots of sharp edges. All you really need is a screwdriver and pliers to remove hose clamps.
Anyway, I got the the top cover off, removed the front door panel section and could easily access the drain pump. I first pulled off all the hoses. All clear. Disconnected the pumps (easy once I figured out the clip the pump unit slides into). Note there are 2 pumps - a circulation pump and drain pump (larger one). All clear. Reassembled. Still nothing.
Ran a few loads of wash manually draining after each cycle (to keep the wife happy with clean laundry). Yes, you can do laundry while waiting on the part to be delivered. Just get a bucket and drain the washer after each cycle - easier if you pull off the main drain hose and drain it that way versus the little emergency drain slow (slow!).
Became convinced it must be the drain pump so I ordered a new one for $50 here. repairclinic.com
Installed new pump and reassembled machine in about 20 minutes. Worked great. NOW HERE IS SOME ADVICE THAT MIGHT SAVE YOU THE $50 for a PUMP:
After replacing the pump, I was banging on the old one to see why the heck it stopped working. During the process, I figured out how to actually pull the pump apart. There is a rubber washer around the housing below the blade - pull on it hard enough and the pump slides apart. When it did - holy cow! It was filled with grimy sandy muck. I cleaned it all out, but did not feel like testing it to see if worked. So I likely have a spare should the new one ever go out.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 10, 2009
Empty Washer and unplug. Hold the start button (arrow with two lines) for 10 seconds. Plug back in and put on the Rinse and Spin cycle (right hand side) I went ahead and ran that cylce (31 minutes with some bleach) and all worked well.
If problem persists call CSR. 800-243-0000
Posted on Sep 20, 2009
HI. This is a water inlet issue here.
Correct water level (246) is not reached within 8 minutes after water is supplied or it does not reach the preset water level within 25 minutes
First you will need to check the water fill faucets to make sure that they are turned all the way on.If the faucets are on, then move on to the hoses. Check the hoses for kinks. Make sure the hoses are straight, and not curved. If all checks out Ok here, i would advise to move on to the filter screens.
The hot and cold water from your home is connect to the water inlet valve on the back of the washer. In each end of the water supply hoses there may be a filter screen to catch debris and prevent it from damaging the washer. The water inlet valve also has filter screens. If the filter screens become clogged, the result is low water pressure, no water or the wrong water temperature,as well. The water inlet valve can be identified by the water hoses connecting to it at the back of the washer. Start by turning off the water supply at the valves on the wall. Disconnect both hoses from the back of the washer. Place the hoses into a bucket and turn them on to confirm that you are getting adequate water pressure and to clear any debris from the line.
Inspect the filter screens on both of the hoses and the inlet valve for debris build up. If you find any debris, clean it out. The screens in the inlet valve are not removable so use caution to avoid damaging them.
If you are getting good water pressure and you find no build up of debris, then the inlet valve itself may be faulty.
TESTING PROCEDURE FOR THE WATER VALVE ASSEMBLY
There are two wires connected to each solenoid on the water inlet valve. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip-on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals ( Be sure to not pull the wires). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
Use a continuity tester or multimeter to test for continuity. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. A reading of infinity indicates a bad solenoid that must be replaced. Different brands and models will have various measurements, but the valve should show some resistance if it is functioning properly. Test the second one in the same way as the first
NOTE:-(The water inlet valve can be identified by the water hoses connected to it at the back of the washer.)
(If the entire inlet system check out ok, and the hoses and valve are ok, replace the pressure switch, and pressure switch hose)
Posted on Nov 02, 2009
That noise means it is blocked. Did you get the filters in the back of the machine at the inlets? I've been through heck with this.... check out what finally worked.
IE= Inlet Error. I have struggled with this problem. After much trial and error it appears that it is due to my well water. People who have city water will probably not have this problem with this machine. Well water or hard water buyers beware. This machine is VERY much a primadonna princess capable of stopping your rinse cycle at the slightest imperfections. This is the Princess and the Pea of Washers... but I have a series of possible solutions that will have you appreciating her primadonna superiority once again.
Troubleshooting... Listen.... Does she sound like she is struggling and no water is coming in? If so then it isn't. The cycles will last forever as she makes all sorts of grunting noises. Something is preventing the water from coming in. It could also be that the pressure in to the washer is under 55 psi.
a. I have adjusted the pressure in the pumphouse to allow for minor fluctuations so that the machine will have at least 55 psi.
b. Take off the hot and cold inlet hose and clean the screen at the back of the washer. The two screens are supposed to come out of the male receptacles. They are fragile... beware. I use a squirt bottle/atomizer to clean these screens as mine chipped and will not budge.
c. You can add a screen just off the faucets so that you don't have to move the machine each and every time you get an IE error. This helps but does not solve.
d. I installed a faucet filter that I bought from Home Depot in the PVC sprinkler's section. They are made of a black plastic material and can easily cross thread, so be careful. They look about the size of a one liter container and unscrew midway to reveal a removable cylindrical mesh filter. This makes it possible to widen the surface area where tiny particles can be trapped without totally blocking flow to the inlet sensor. :-) When installing this make sure to completely rinse the hoses, and all screens coming into the machine. I took the shortcut first and thought my idea had failed only to discover that the screen behind the washer was partially blocked.
e. Periodically remove the filter and clean. Depending on the quality of your water, you may need to do this at all the points that have a screen.
I now have a screen washer between the sprinkler system filter and hose and the one that comes installed inside the male ends of the inlets for the water hoses. This has helped enormously.
f. Another possible offender is the soap and softener dispenser. To remove and clean press down on the plastic toggle piece on the soap side, the whole drawer should slide off and clean. Non-HE detergents and softeners can create a buildup of gooey gunk. Just clean it. Inside the drawer space you can clean to increase flow. I use baby wipes.
g. Make sure that the filter on the bottom is free from obstructions. If there is water in the drum, you will be flooded if you remove. This is a last resort after all the inlet lines have been cleaned and cleared.
Note: It doesn't take much to lower the flow of water to the point that this machine will not run. Since you cannot override the computer on it to run a spin cycle or even advance to remove water it can be highly frustrating. I've learned to obey my machine and just clear every last possible inlet.
Best of luck.
Posted on May 30, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
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Manually turn the motor and drum and listen for the
noise, if so the motor bearings, the drum agitator shaft and fittings must be
checked. Also the suspensions which include the shock absorbers and springs,
the body clamps must be checked to be in correct alignment and not changed in
position. Tightening of the mounting is
also very important. Finally in most cases a drop of OIL or smear of grease on
the moving parts cane solve most issues.
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