Question about True T-49 Side by Side Refrigerator Commercial

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I have a 2 door reach in true freezer which is now just keeping a steady 5 degrees about temp, should be 0 -10, fans, compressor, fans evap are all runing okay, the coils were clean, so what could the problem be .

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If its getting warmer or more humid where you are this is probably a sign of needing to clean your outer coils. Remove the panel covering the compressor and check the condition of the coils. Clean with a nylon brush or wire brush. Or blow out with compressed air.

If the outer coils look OK see if they feel warm up and down the sides. If they don't you may have a defrost problem. If they are warm recheck them in 30 minutes if still warm or warmer and no one has opened the door check the lite inside, and the fan inside (it will only run with door closed). Hit the switch and see if lite goes out and make sure the switch is being activated with the door closed. And check the door seals any vinyl cracked on them they need replacing but can be warped sometimes letting in warm air (usually a sign of frost inside the door or water leaking out but not always).
It could be low on refrigerant or an inefficient compressor but not likely as much as these other items are.

The last thing is the thermometer could be reading wrong or out of calibration. Is it Electronic? Yes - Then its most likely one of the other problem before. If its mechanical (bi-metal) get another thermometer you trust or a new one and check it before you trust it. 2 of them telling you its 5'f then Id believe it other wise one or both of them are wrong.

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

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That is, measure the entering air temp to the condenser, say 75 degrees. Now add 30 to that and get 105 degrees. Look at a P/T chart and see what the pressure is for that temp which is about 253 for R-404-A.
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In most cases, there is a device located in or on the evap that senses the temp of the evap. This can be a defrost terminator/fan delay. Sometimes they are separate devices and sometimes they are a 2 in 1 device. If the evap does not get cold enough, the fans will not come on. Usually about +20 degree F. It is to prevent circulating warm air after a defrost and to keep from overloading the compressor after a defrost as heat is generated by electric elements. I would look to see if the defrost terminator / fan delay has malfunctioned, then I would check the refrigeration system performance.

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http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php

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Freezers have a sensor that is referred to as a "Fan Delay/Defrost Terminator". It senses the temp during the defrost cycle. Usually, when the evap temp reaches about 50 degrees, there should not be any frost or ice on it. This device terminates the defrost cycle. It also keeps the fans off so warm air is not circulated. When the evap gets to about 20 degress or so, the sensor switches on the evap fans. If the fans are not coming on, either the sensor is bad or the evap is not reaching the proper temp to cause the sensor to turn on the fans.

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The pressures depend, somewhat, on the expansion device,i.e. a TXV or Cap Tube. Take a pressure reading, then convert it to a temperature. The evap temp should be right at 10 colder than the box temp. Remember, heat flows to cold so the evap has to "Lead the Load" in order to cool. In many cases, the condensing pressure is usually ambient temp, plus 30, then convert to a pressure. These are general accepted practices that have been used for many years.

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1 Answer

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Really need to know what motor(s) are running (compressor, evap fan inside freezer compartment, condenser fan under fridge)?? Of course, check your temperature (thermostat) settings. Side-by-sides usually have 2 of them. They should be labled for refridgerator and freezer. The freezer control usually only opens a baffle from the freezer compartment to the refridge compartment. The refrigerator temp control is the one that controls the compressor on-off cycles and the temp of refrig compartment (this keeps the refrig compartment from freezing the milk and cokes) If the freezer control/baffle is set too far open, this will cause the refrig temp control to shut off too soon for the freezer temp to get low enough. These controls can get bumped out of the correct setting accidently from time to time.
To check the following, the fridge has to be running, or in a condition where it "should be" running: If compressor is running (condenser fan should be too), check if evaporator fan (inside freezer) is running. Open (freezer) door and hold door light switch in when you check evaporator fan operation (some fans stop when door is open) If it is not running you may have a bad evaporator fan motor. It could also be a bad defrost timer, causing the evaporator (also inside back of freezer) to ice-up. This blocks the air flow over evap. Also, there is a defrost terminator switch on the evaporator coil that stops the defrost cycle when coil is clear of ice/frost (but timer hasn't ended defrost cycle). If it is defective, that could also keep the fridge from going into the defrost cycle, or taking it out too soon. If it is the timer, change the defrost terminator as well. Depending on how handy you are, you may be able to check/change any of these parts yourself. If you don't know much about elecrical stuff, you should leave it to a repair tech. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

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I'll try to give you the "Readers Digest" version.
First, make sure there is no ice build up on the evap. Light frost is O.K. as long as it does not effect air flow. (Very Important). All fans need to be running. Again, an air flow thing. There should be some product in the box but not too close to the evap. Again, an air flow thing.
The expansion device can effect your pressures to some degree i.e. Cap tube vs. TXV.
As a general rule of thumb, which I use almost everyday when it comes to pressures:
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I would look at low side first to see if it is within reason. Don't let the high side get too high. Increases the compression ratio and overworks the compressor.
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Good Luck and hope this gets you started.

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