Question about Infinity SW-12 Subwoofer
Infinity SW12 sub was shipped and damaged slightly. now 2-5 seconds after start up it makes duck call noise. It last one second. then works OK. Thanks, Tom A.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
3/4 update: i bypassed the 300w amp on my first ovtr3 with a cs3006 crossover i purchased on ebay. the input wires at the base of the speaker were connected to the input of the crossover, the bass output of the new crossover was connected to the yellow/yellow-black lf+/lf- wires that used to leave the old 300w amp. the high freq output of the new crossover was directly connected to the leads coming from the speaker's tweeter (running the midfreq outputs from the new crossover to the input of the speaker's old crossover is no good, since the midfreq output of the new crossover would rolloff and provide little high freq to the tweeter). The mid-freq output from the crossover was connected to the input of the old crossover that came with the speaker (alternatively, i could have wired the mid freq output from the new crossover directly to the midrange speakers, but i figured the old crossover might have had some characteristics that would have been helpful. the result is better than i hoped for! true, the bass is not quite as floor shaking as before (and you need an amp that can boost +5-+10db below 350Hz and rolloff the boost above 350Hz), but the end result is more than satisfying and gives these speakers new life. I am using a Sony receiver that puts out around 200W for the front speakers.
Posted on Mar 04, 2008
Fixed the problem...I just purchased another one online (from a store that has a good return problem) and will return the one that doesn't work! Cheers! :)
Posted on Jun 27, 2008
I had the same problem. When I opened it up, the fuse was blown, and it was a pain to find the fuse it needs (3 Amp, 250 V slow-blow fuse, 5x20 mm). Also, the 2 large electrolytics (big purple things near the amp) and one small capacitor were all blown. For 4 fuses, bought seperately from, and the 2 electrolytics and 1 capacitor, it cost about $20, plus almost 20 more in shipping, which still isnt bad considering the original price of the sub. However, the tricky part is that you have to know how to use a soldering iron to take out the old components and put in the new ones.
Posted on Mar 23, 2009
Looks like a broken copper braid that links the speaker terminal to the cone (from there on it goes to the coil which is underneath the cone).
Check the speaker connection terminals (near the magnet), you will notice that each terminal has a copper braid wire going from that terminal to the speaker cone.
Inspect both braid wires carefully at each end (near the speaker terminal and near the speaker cone), there will either be some damage to the braid at one or more of these four locations or the braid could be actually broken at any of these spots.
The braid can actually be resoldered at the point where it's damaged or broken - this task will require good soldering skills, mainly because this kind of braid wires are difficuld to solder (they are a bit difficult to clean because of their structure and solder won't attach itself well to oxydized copper), but also because some speaker cones are made of plastic which may melt if you overheat it with a soldering iron.
Besides that, when resoldering is being done, only a very short portion of the braid should be wetted with solder because the solder point will become rigid when the solder cools down, and the braid needs to remain very flexible when the speaker operates (if it's too rigid or too short, damage to the speaker cone could occur or the braid could get broken again when the speaker will be playing at a loud volume).
Hope you can have it repaired, it can be done at home, but there are also speaker repair shops where you can get it done (i'm not sure about the prices though).
Anyway, the alternative is to replace the speaker itself.
Posted on Sep 11, 2009
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