Alternated belt came off and tangled up with ttiming belt. now it jumps time or if cranked by hand the distributer moves in with the cam...1989 prelude so 2.0 dual overhead cam.... what's the cost and
Alternated belt came off and tangled up with ttiming belt. now it jumps time or if cranked by hand the distributer moves in with the cam...1989 prelude so 2.0 dual overhead cam.... what's the cost and how much time would it take to repair?
Re: Alternated belt came off and tangled up with ttiming...
Sorry guy but chances are your valves are shot. My brother is a prelude fan and he had one that lost a belt too. Best bet is to take the head off and see if there is damage to the pistons. If not put a good head on it and go. Usually bout $350 for a good head and $200-$250 in gaskets, head bolts, fluid and a belt.
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Disconnect battery, remove breather box, disconnect wires to alternator. If it has coil packs, remove them. Remove valve cover. Remove power steering pump( don't unhook the hoses) lay it to the side. Loosen alternator. You may need to rent a special tool to remove crankshaft pulley. Unplug cam sensor, remove timing cover. remove #1 spark plug, turn crank by hand until you find TDC compression stroke (notice timing marks on cam and crank pulleys). loosen bolt on timing belt tensioner and remove timing belt. Remove cam pulley and replace cam seal, while you're at it you may as well change the crank seal too. Reinstall everything in reverse order.After you get it back together, you'll have to recode your radio, if it is equipped with anti theft. If you're lucky, this is about a 6 hour job.
You can rotate the cam/crank into a positon that will not move as you remove the old belt, as long as the new belt places the cam/crank in same position as the old belt had them, it don't matter where the timing marks are. Leave your old belt on, rotate to a position that will not move or have tension on belt, (no matter the marks) and replace the belt. Make sure to recheck timing marks after new belt is installed by rotating the crank/cam back to timing marks, or just trust that the belt was replaced without the cam or crank rotated. Easy off, easy on, just make sure the cam/crank are still in time as the old belt had them located. NOTE: timing marks are there in case of a broke belt, or for a car that has jumped time. As long as cam and crank are held in same positon, and car was in time before the procedure, it don't matter where the timing marks are at during belt replacement.
This sounds like the crank seal, the engine doesnt have to be removed, in order to get to seal is like replacing the ttiming belt, and once in the timing belt i would replace the crank and cam seals, also do the timing belt, and maybe the waterpump, you will need to remove the crank pulley and then the timing covers then align timing marks for timing belt before ou remove it, with timing belt off the crank pulley then slides off the crankshaft and the seal is behind it, the cam shaft gear unbolts and the seal is behind the gear, once the gears are off then you will be able to remove the seals from the engine,heres a few diagrams to help. good luck and i hope this is helpful,
if you have the six there are marks on the cams i belive they point at 10 and 2 facing each other and if you look through the holes in the cam gears there are marks that line up with the marks on the cam then there is a notch in the crank gear that lines up with a dimple in the block(oil pump)if you line cams up before removing belt you should be ok and a tip when you get the belt around the love pulley stick a piece of rubber hose under belt this will prevent the belt from spinning the crank as it is lodged between timing belt and lip on oil pump also prevents belt from jumping teeth so you can get slack to the proper side also the office style paperclips that fold over after clipped to papers these wprk well to hold the belt to the cams so when your fussing with the tensioner the cams wont move and jump time but spin the crank 2 revolutions before tottally reassembling but all your timing marks should line up again
its a timing belt attacked to the side of engine then you have 3 open belts. The timing belt is connected to crank at engine to camshaft for cylinders. if incased it is a timing belt. it will be a challenge to put on.
3.0l Mitsubishi 6 cylinder.
support engine... remove engine mount... remove alternator, power stearing pump, compressor (if equipt) do not remove hoses from power stearing pump or compressor move them out of the way were they wont get damaged. Remove the tension pulley for the serpentine belt, and the tensioner for the compressor belt if equipt. then remove the compressor mounting bracket. Next remove the engine mounting plate and the crank pulley and balancer assembly. you should now be able to remove the the 3 piece timing cover. Once removed remove the tensioner spring from the water pump and loosen the tensioner nut. Remove the belt. At this point it is also recommended to replace the water pump and plumbing as well. The water pump service life is aproximately the same as the timing belt at 60,000 miles. This engine in stock form is a non interfering type engine. Meaning that moving the cams or crank out of sync will not cause damage. Turn each of the cams over by hand and line them up with the timing mark on the top of the back cover with the marks on the pulleys. Using a wrench turn the crank so that the pulley mark lines up with the mark cast into the block. replace the belt, tensioner spring (replace tensioner if warn) and tighten the tensioner bolt. roll the crank over 2 complete turns forward and recheck the cams to make sure the marks are still lined up. roll the crank backwards and recheck the timing marks again. (this process is much easier done with the plugs removed.) If everything is still lined up correctly (crank at TDC and cam pulleys pointing to each designated mark on the covers.) reassemble the cover and assessorys in the reverse order that they were removed and reinstall the old motor mount or replace if needed.
remove the crankshaft,make sure that the plugs are removed ,line up the timming marks on tdc,(top dead center) remove alternator belt.remove all the plastic covers check the move ment in the water pump and the cam belt tennsioner if it has one as the water pump does the same job.
remove all old bits of the old belt.
alignment of the cam shaft(s) with a dot and arrow on them both.rebuild with a new toyota or gates belt.when all back in place turn the engine by hand ,there should be no tight spots.then fit crankpully.