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Re: Wood splitter slow action
What's going on is the seals are worn out on the inside and the fluid is bypassing. This is why it is slow.....while operating it, feel it. If it is hot, it's bypassing....the actuator (cylider that houses the piston) needs rebuilt.
If you can get the specs on this, it is really easy to reseal....pressure testing is another thing....take it to a rebuild shop. get this done and it will last another 30 winters!
If it's always been that way, it may have a single-stage pump. My Troy-Bilt PTO splitter was made by Didier around 1984 and has a 2-stage hydraulic pump. The cylinder return stroke is relatively quick.
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Does the motor turn it self off after a couple of minutes of no pumping?= ran out of water. If there is water up to the pump and still no water, check filter/s ( if there is any). Undo V band and check pump internals, impeller may be broken from shaft? When putting back together tap V band with block off wood or back of screw driver evenly as you do up the clamp to stop it distorting
When the dumping piston lowers, there should be fluid being taken into the other side of the piston from the return hose. The fluid level in the reservoir should not change. Has the hose routing been changed from original design?
Often there is a paper gaskit and sometimes a jointing compound is applied which acts like a glue.
It has presumably been there for years and the heat and jointing compound makes it stick. Get a chunky lump of wood, hold this on the pump and hit the wood with a heavy hammer. The wood will prevent any damage to the casing and the blow will shock it off.
You will need a new paper gaskit when putting back on. Let me know if that does the trick!
remove the one end of the hose that is from the rod end of the clylinder.
two ways you can go here. either: detach the one end of the hose that is attached to directional control valve and leads to the cap end of the cylinder and place the end in a pale then retract the cylinder by physically forcing the rod back in and all the oil will drain out of the cap end into the pale and the rod end will fill with air.
or u could hold the directional valve in the position to let the oil flow back to tank while physically forcing the rod back in. the oil in the cap end will drain to tank and rod end will fill with air.
drain the tank of oil.
if you wanted to be extra thurough remove the remaining lines and drain the oil out of them.
reattach all lines.
replace oil filters/strainers. should be one on the return line going to tank. and one on the suction line before the pump. But there may not be a second filter.
fill tank with new oil.
extend the cylinder using the pump. allowing the air to bleed off the rod side. may chatter at bit while extending. if excessive chatter remove line end to allow the air in the rod side to bleed to atmosphere and continue till fully extended.
reattach line. probably a good idea to run a couple cycles.
and repeat the entire process for a thurogh flushing.
! note: dont be dissconnecting lines with pressure in them or while the system is running.
! note: be sure to have enough oil in the tank so the pump is not sucking air. this will eventually cause unrepairable damage to pump if sucking air for too long.
i just wrote this off the top of my head and ive only worked on industrial hyraulic systems and never on a log splitter before so just keep that in mind. hope it helps
I'm afraid that your splitter ram is stucked. This is based from your comment that all the hoses are disconnected. Therefore, there is no more pressure going to the ram, Unless of course if the line is clogged. By the way, are you sure if the ram is depressurized.? Please have this checked. However, if you are sure, then, there is no other way but to dismantle the ram, and check for the part inside it that caused it to stucked.
With NO PREASURE on the hyd system or the cylinder ( brace it )unhook both hoses from the hyd cylinder and hook together ( may require a made up hose or special fitting ), then operate the system again. If it bogs down again you KNOW it's not a cylinder problem ( piston dammage, bent rod, piece of metal stuck in a cylinder port...) . With the hoses hooked up normaly, you possiably have a restriction on the rod side ( pressure down to the cylinder) of the control valve. I have seen a piece of piston stuck in the port fitting because it could not go by the spool. Or depending on allot of variables, you MAY have a " flow control valve " that will control the decent speed of the cylinder failing or out of adjustment ( fixed orficed check valve or manual gate ). these are normally in the barrel line of the cylinder, but that depends on the configuration of the cylinder.Good luck and be carefull!!!
On your flywheel there should be 2 holes threaded on the top area & the retaining nut in the centre.
remove the centre nut completely, then get a flat piece of steel bar (about 6" long x 1/2" thick x 11/2" wide) drill 2 holes (clearance holes) at the same distance as the ones on the flywheel.
then drill one in the centre about 1/4" dia.
Get two bolts that will fit into the 2 threaded holes & pass then through your newly drilled bar.
Place a ball bearing on the centre hole & tighten your 2 bolts inwards.
When they both start to get tight tap the flywheel with a hammer & tighten futher on the bolts.
The flywheel should now come loose.