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I was given an empisal KH-680-L knitting machine with manual. I followed manual. the carriage keeps getting stuck half way through the knitting line and looses stitches. Please help

Keeps loosing stitches and gets stuck

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

RickE1
  • 202 Answers

SOURCE: upper thread getting tangled in the bobbin

Always remember T-N-T. Thread, Needle, Tension. Assuming its threaded properly, is the needle all the way in and facing the right direction? These symptoms also suggest the bobbin may be in the bobbincase upside down thus turning in the wrong direction. Hope this helps.

Posted on Aug 23, 2007

bargainbox
  • 1388 Answers

SOURCE: Loose stitching underneath. HOW CAN I FIX!!!!

I'm **t sure what you mean by freehand stitching........do you get a good even stitch with zig zag, this is the most important first test ?

Ensure that all is clean and free of lint jams....**w for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you can**t form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me k**w if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "k**tting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and **t to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do **t gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would **t recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small *****s and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (**t soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is ** lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension ***** in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other ***** at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is **t a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's ** trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension ***** very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it can**t be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....** case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (a**ther reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistant diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !

If you want any more help with this, just post back here, or, drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at www.bargainbox.com.au

Posted on Mar 09, 2008

  • 185 Answers

SOURCE: Problems with Singer CE-150... the LED light #19 keeps coming on, but I KNOW it isn't threaded incorrectly..

This machine uses a rotary thread break sensor. If you look at the top left of your machine when it is running the sensor (white dial) should be spinning. Threading around this part is critical. Make sure it spins when you pull thread through the needle. if it does not you have missed something in threading. If this is spinning and machine still stops it is likely the sensor is malfunctioning.

Posted on Apr 01, 2008

safenude
  • 124 Answers

SOURCE: Loose stitch

Welcome to FixYa. I am the sewing machine expert that chose your issue to solve.

When everything seems to be working fine and an occasional stitch is loose.....now get ready.......here it is.......the needle!

It seems impossible, but the needle is the most neglected part of the machine. The one you are using could be slightly bent or have a slight burr that you won't see with the naked eye. Also, needles, especially in an embroidery machine (which work their buns off), are only good for about 8 hours of cumulative use. I would say that an embroidery needle should be retired after 3 or 4. They get dull like a razor blade which can cause enough drag to create a timing issue that's barely perceptible.
Welcome to FixYa! I am the sewing machine expert that chose to help you with your issue.

There are really only two things that can cause bottom (note: remember that problems with the bottom thread, almost always comes from the top and not the bobbin. Bobbins rarely need tension adjustments). These two things are:

  1. An area was missed when the machine was threaded (most machines have an arrow at each area on the thread path where the thread MUST run or the stitch on the bottom will be sloppy. Threading can be tricky and even the most experienced miss once in a while.
  2. The tension adjustment mechanism in the thread path. If the thread is not properly through this area, the thread on the bottom will be sloppy or if, threaded properly, and the tension is set too loose, the stitch will be sloppy. If the tension is set too tight, the bottom thread will be tight and pucker the fabric.
It is counter-intuitive that problems with the top tension cause problems with the bottom stitch but it sure will.

So try it and see if that helps.

Thanks for using FixYa.com

P.S. - If you find that the solution/answer I provided led you to, or resulted in a fix, please close the ticket with a FixYa! rating. I would be very grateful for your show of appreciation.
If it hasn’t, please do not assign a rating just yet. Please post back as to what steps you took, results, etc, and I will try to assist you further.



Posted on Jan 31, 2009

Mongo32
  • 111 Answers

SOURCE: my macine is new and i cant fix the bobbin tension

the problem is always on the other side of the fabric - if thread bunches up underneath, the top tension or threading is wrong

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

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