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No hot air in clothes drier - but tumbles and control screen lit, normal

I'm presuming the heat element needs replacing or a wire to it has disconnected. I wish to open up the drier and apply a multimeter. I've removed the Torx screws from the back of the drier, including two holding the top down with a lip in the way of the back sliding up. I presume there are some clips somewhere preventing the top moving. I'd like some advice on how to open it up without snapping any clips.

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  • Sais Apr 26, 2013

    Model: Miele Navitronic T 4882C front loading clothes drier.



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Depending on the model, once youve removed the 2 screws at the back, the whole top should actually slide backwards and then you should be able to lift off, it should not take a great deal of force but may need a nudge. most just slot backwards.

re the heating, the element should be behind the back panel, and should be easily accessible, you will easliy be able to tell if its bust, as it will actually be burnt out and collapsed, not nice and firm and springy.

to replace this is a doddle, about 7 quid from amazon just type in the model number and part to search and its as easy as unplug the old, plug in the new.

hope that helps.

Posted on Apr 22, 2013

Testimonial: "This particular model has two flanges coming down from the top of the drier at the back, each an inch wide, each with a screw. When I take the two screws out, the top doesn't slide back. I lifted it fractionally and saw another two matching flanges sticking down from the top on the inside of the rear wall, matching the outside pair. The screws appear to go through the outside one, through the wall, and into the inside blocks. These inside blocks/flanges stop the lid sliding backward. Unfortunately, I can't lift the rear of the top up enough to see what is holding it in place further forward. Thanks,"


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SOURCE: hotpoint tumble drier wont heat

What is the model number?

Posted on Oct 20, 2012

  • 18 Answers

SOURCE: How do you remove top from a Hotpoint CTD80 tumble

2 screws at the back and then push the top towards the back of the might need to give it a bit of a wack, if it's too tight just take the 3 screws from the back of the side panels and things will loosen up a little

Posted on Jun 20, 2011

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Power from the house

Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating Element

Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it. The proper ohm reading can be found in the service manual or sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on your dryer (9- 13 ohms is a common reading). Electric heating elements aren't repairable. The heating element is easy to replace. Check our videos for other types of dryer heating elements.

Thermal fuse / Thermal Cut Out / Thermistor

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front cover. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing They are also round and made of metal and plastic. The thermistor is located on the blower housing usually. If any of the fuses do not have continuity replace it. Check for continuity if none replace, But before replacing check for obstructions. The fuses are very inexpensive and easy to replace.


A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. Check all connections, make sure they are tight. Loose connections can lead to a fire. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

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If the dryer is not drying the clothes then you would need to check for the following things—
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Drier shuts off

Thermostat controls heat. There is also a

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Dryer does not dry clothes

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The thermal fuses are located on the element casing.  They each have two wires coming out of them.  They are about 3/4 inch round with screw ears on the sides so they are about 1 1/2 inch long and about an inch across.  With a multimeter, check the continuity across the terminals.  If there is no continuity the fuse needs to be replaced.


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