Adjusting the outfeed table on the Delta Model: JT-160
I am unable to correct a .006'' drop on the side opposite of the fence, close to the cutter head of the outfeed table. I have the fence squared within .001'' to the infeed table, but I cannot adjust the positioning set-screw enough to raise the outfeed table to meet as required. The result are surfaces that are not aligning as the should after a cut is made. If I'm understanding this design as I should be, I should be able to make the correct set-screw adjustments in question, and then take up any difference of the other set screws that may have changed and then have a sound and square set up. Another thing this unit is doing is not cutting the latter section of a long board when light passes are taken. However, I suspect this is due to fact of the outfeed tables misalignment.
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Re: adjusting the outfeed table on the Delta Model:...
Sometimes you just have to shim them. If you've worked the gibs and can't get any more adjustment out of them, you might try buying some thin brass or copper metal stock (you can get it in rolls at Hobby Lobby) and use it as a shim to hold the table in the appropriate position.
It sounds crude, but that was the only way I managed to get my industrial 6" powermatic to true up.
Also bring the infeed table up to zero, aligned exactly with the outfeed table and check with a known true straightedge. This will help you to keep a clear idea in mind of which direction to move things when you're making adjustments.
If you can get the edges and diagonals straight, you're well on your way to straight cuts.
Make sure beforehand that the surface you're fixing to is flat and you're not clamping the machine down in a way that's torqueing the base.
Castings just aren't rested long enough these days before the surfaces are ground, and things twist a bit sometimes. You may be working with a surface not flat, and unable to get it perfect.
Good luck. I hope that helps a little.
You may need to use an auxiliary roller stand to support the outfeed of long boards to keep the weight from causing a droop that lifts the tail off the tables and prevents a straight cut.
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With any of these portable planers, the sniping can be a problem that you can minimize. Of course you can use a board longer than you need... but more practically: 1. Take light cuts 2. Make sure your infeed and outfeed tables are at the same height and are parallel to the suface of the machine below the cutter. 3. Provide additional in-feed and out-feed support beyond the little in-feed and out-feed tables to keep your material moving consistently in the same plane from start to finish. you might use support rollers. Take care to get the whole setup adjusted all in one plane. Good luck.
You might have the outfeed table lower than the blade. If the outfeed table is adjustable, then you can check it easily with a steel ruler. With the Power OFF, lay the steel rule on edge on the outfeed table so that it hangs over the blade. Rotate the blade by hand in the forward direction. The blade just just barely touch the ruler. If the ruler is bumped up and pulled forward by the blade, then this is the problem. If your outfeed table is not adjustable, then you need to adjust your blades. If this is not the problem it may be that your wood is not uniformly dried.
If you can locate an old Delta Fence, I have seen those transplanted to a number of other table saws quite easily and reliably.
Otherwise aftermarket, there is the Beismeyer fence, it was adopted by Delta and licensed. You can get them through Delta or even Amazon. There are other vendors. You will want to add outfeed tables and extension tables as well.
You did not indicate which saw you have, but in general terms this applies to most saws.
Adjusting a jointer to relieve snipe can be trickey but here are a few procedures that will help.
-The two tables on the jointer are adjustable, the front (infeed) is what you adjust for cut depth.
- The back (outfeed) needs to be the exact hieght as your knives
The outfeed needs to be adjusted first
-using a straight edge on the outfeed table adjust it so that when you turn the head (counter clockwise) the knives just touch the staight edge (NOTE** all the knives should touch the straight edge the same, if not your knives are not set correctly) This is your most important adjustment, if the outfeed is to high or to low it will cause inconsistant jointing.
-Now that the outfeed is trued up to the head you can adjust the infeed table, using the straight edge align it so that it is perfectly lined up with the outfeed table (not touching the kinives) Your jointer is now at ZERO
You can now adjust the infeed for depth of cut, Start by lowering the infeed a very small amount (1/16 of a inch to start)
The biggest problem I have seen is that people try to cut to much at one time, it will work alot better if you take several small cuts instead of one deep cut.
Also- getting the knives set perfectly in the head is a key to success, if this is not happening you WILL have jointing problems. ALSO if the knives are not sharp they will pull the material down causing snipe.
I really hope this helps and if you need a visual aid try looking it up on you tube.
I have used my jointer for numerous different projects, Here is a cool one for tapered table legs.
Take a piece of square stock (like 2x2 ) about 3 feet long, make a mark about 2 foot up and wrap a piece of tape around it at the mark.
now make a mark (we will call it a stop mark) on the fence of the jointer by the head.
with a pencil and number the edges on the 2x2 (above the tape so you dont joint them off)
turn on jointer and run side 1 until your tape is at the fence mark, carefully lift 2x2 and do the same to the 2 side.
only joint the #1 & #2 sides, run several more times and you will have a perfect tapered leg.
The knives could be dull, you would have to be the judge of that. If the bevel & face are rusty they are probably dull. They can be honed or taken to a sharpening shop.
The outfeed table could also be too high. I usually adjust the knives above the outfeed table. I use an aluminum straight edge & adjust them using a sheet of printer paper on the outfeed table so that they are about the thickness of the paper above the table. I place the paper on the outfeed table put the straightedge on the paper & rotate & adjust each knife so they just slightly hit the straightedge when I rotate the cutterhead by hand. Needless to say the jointer needs to be unplugged while doing this.
The board could also be convex to start with. To fix that problerm start jointing at the start of the convex part and not at the end of the board.
First, unplug the jointer, then, insure that all the cutters are set to the same height. Raise the outfeed table with a straight piece of wood or a framing square sitting on it and extending over the cutters. Each cutter should just touch the board without raising it. The infeed table is lowered by how deep you want to cut. Always look at the grain of the board you are cutting. Never allow the cutters to strike grain that is running down into the cutters. It will chip out chunks of wood. The grain should be tapering down away from the cutters, back toward you, never toward them.
The tapering you mentioned usually happens when the outfeed table is lower than the cutter tops.
Well, the infeed table is supposed to be lower than the outfeed table. This is how the jointer actually removes material to flatten a face or board edge. What is important is that the the outfeed table is level with the top of the cutterhead blades, so as you push material through the cutterhead, the outfeed table fully supports the workpiece.
The infeed table is supposed to be adjustable up and down to remove different amounts of material.
If both infeed and outfeed tables were aligned, no material would be cut (assuming the outfeed was aligned with top of the blades).
You adjust the handle tension by actually adjusting the t-square itself, changing the relative position it sits from the rect tube mounted to the saw.
This is done by turning the two allen set screws mounted in the angle iron that is welded to the fence. There are a couple of tabs that ride along the inside face of the rect tube when the fence slides from side to side. You'll see that each of these tabs is adjustable, in or out, by slightly turning the allen set screws with an allen wrench. BOTH of these must be adjusted, so that you maintain the fence's 'squareness' to the table.
What I do is line up the edge of the fence with the mitre slot in the saw table, feeling the edge of the fence as it hangs over the edge of the mitre slot, both at the infeed and outfeed end of the slot. It should be perfectly flush at both ends.
By turning the set screws in or out a little, you can adjust the handle tension to the place where you like it (you don't need to force it into position to have it hold firmly; that's too tight). Then check the squareness of the fence by clamping it down along the edge of the mitre jig slot, and see if it's parrallel. If not, you need to adjust one or both screws to make it parrallel, and get the tension right. You may have to go back and forth a few times, but eventually you can dial it in to where it feels just right and the alignment is correct. Think small adjustments.
At the same time, put a little dab of wheel bearing grease or vaseline on the cam of the fence handle where it rubs against that little flap. This will make it easier to engage when the tension is firm and keep it from wearing abrasively.
This fence is a joy to use when it's dialed in. I hope you find this information helpful. Happy woodworking!
a jointer includes infeed and outfeed tables. A set of rotating blades is positioned between these two blades. A fence is set on one side of the jointer to serve as a guide. The infeed table and outfeed table are adjusted so that they are parallel, but the infeed table is slightly lower thereby exposing a small amount of the cutting blades. The woodworker then presses the lumber against the infeed table and pushes it onto the outfeed table; the rapidly spinning blades remove a small amount of material. If the wood is particularly warped, several passes on the jointer may be required.