Question about Delta JT160 Shopmaster 10 Amp 6 Inch Benchtop Jointer

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Adjusting the outfeed table on the Delta Model: JT-160

I am unable to correct a .006'' drop on the side opposite of the fence, close to the cutter head of the outfeed table. I have the fence squared within .001'' to the infeed table, but I cannot adjust the positioning set-screw enough to raise the outfeed table to meet as required. The result are surfaces that are not aligning as the should after a cut is made. If I'm understanding this design as I should be, I should be able to make the correct set-screw adjustments in question, and then take up any difference of the other set screws that may have changed and then have a sound and square set up. Another thing this unit is doing is not cutting the latter section of a long board when light passes are taken. However, I suspect this is due to fact of the outfeed tables misalignment.

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  • Rick Wymer
    Rick Wymer May 11, 2010

    Do You have the JT160, or the JT160R ??
    Have you checked to make sure that the Cutterhead Knives are Straight & True Across the Length of the Cutterhead? You may have to Loosen your Outfeed Table all the way out, and Clean the Tracks (called "Ways")...Have you Tried to Raise the Outfeed & Infeed Tables to a Height above the Cutterhead and Make Sure they are Level with each other across the entire Length of these Tables?
    Have You checked to Make sure That the Cutterhead Knives are the SAME Height across the Width of the Cutterhead??
    Are You Turning your Work-piece end for end on each passing cut? Are you Using a "Featherboard" to Hold your Work-piece flush to the table?
    The Outfeed Table should be adjusted to the SAME Height as The Top of The Cut ( I use a Long Straight-edge Level 4 footer myself). Are you applying the Same Downward Pressure on Your Work-piece for it's entire Length?
    (I have a 12" Delta Jointer in addition to a Complete Woodworking Shop)
    If you could provide me with The EXACT Model of your Machine, I could go over the Service Manual, and perhaps get you running True again.


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Sometimes you just have to shim them. If you've worked the gibs and can't get any more adjustment out of them, you might try buying some thin brass or copper metal stock (you can get it in rolls at Hobby Lobby) and use it as a shim to hold the table in the appropriate position.
It sounds crude, but that was the only way I managed to get my industrial 6" powermatic to true up.
Also bring the infeed table up to zero, aligned exactly with the outfeed table and check with a known true straightedge. This will help you to keep a clear idea in mind of which direction to move things when you're making adjustments.
If you can get the edges and diagonals straight, you're well on your way to straight cuts.
Make sure beforehand that the surface you're fixing to is flat and you're not clamping the machine down in a way that's torqueing the base.
Castings just aren't rested long enough these days before the surfaces are ground, and things twist a bit sometimes. You may be working with a surface not flat, and unable to get it perfect.
Good luck. I hope that helps a little.
You may need to use an auxiliary roller stand to support the outfeed of long boards to keep the weight from causing a droop that lifts the tail off the tables and prevents a straight cut.

Posted on Mar 28, 2009

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Adjusting a jointer to relieve snipe can be trickey but here are a few procedures that will help.

-The two tables on the jointer are adjustable, the front (infeed) is what you adjust for cut depth.
- The back (outfeed) needs to be the exact hieght as your knives

The outfeed needs to be adjusted first
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You can now adjust the infeed for depth of cut, Start by lowering the infeed a very small amount (1/16 of a inch to start)

The biggest problem I have seen is that people try to cut to much at one time, it will work alot better if you take several small cuts instead of one deep cut.

Also- getting the knives set perfectly in the head is a key to success, if this is not happening you WILL have jointing problems. ALSO if the knives are not sharp they will pull the material down causing snipe.

I really hope this helps and if you need a visual aid try looking it up on you tube.

I have used my jointer for numerous different projects, Here is a cool one for tapered table legs.
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with a pencil and number the edges on the 2x2 (above the tape so you dont joint them off)

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only joint the #1 & #2 sides, run several more times and you will have a perfect tapered leg.

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The outfeed table could also be too high. I usually adjust the knives above the outfeed table. I use an aluminum straight edge & adjust them using a sheet of printer paper on the outfeed table so that they are about the thickness of the paper above the table. I place the paper on the outfeed table put the straightedge on the paper & rotate & adjust each knife so they just slightly hit the straightedge when I rotate the cutterhead by hand. Needless to say the jointer needs to be unplugged while doing this.

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The tapering you mentioned usually happens when the outfeed table is lower than the cutter tops.

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