Question about GE JTP27 Electric Double Oven

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My manual control oven comes on by itself

The elements in the bottom oven start heating up even when the manual dial is set to off.

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Top oven will not heat up

Had a similar problem. The overheat sensor had failed to the open position and the oven control would light up and you could set the temp, but it would drop to 100 degrees and then go blank.

Posted on Jan 06, 2008

aborcass
  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: GE Profile -Installed wall oven - won't heat

brand new??? under a year old??? if so you have a warr call for service, but it sounds like an ignitor isssue, brand new , perhapsgot damaged in shipping 1-800-ge-cares

Posted on Mar 30, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE double oven - bottem will not heat, top oven fine

I had a similar problem. Solved mine by resetting the manual reset thermal switch. The switch for the top oven is located behind the control panal which can be removed easily by taking out three screws then lifting up an leaning out. The switch has a red reset button, just push it in till it clicks.

For safety, SWITCH THE BREAKER OFF WHILE YOU DO THIS!!!

The lower oven switch is located behind the vent grill between the two ovens.

GE should be ashamed of hiding this feature-it isn't mentioned in the manual. I discovered it on a schematic hidden behind the control panal.

Good Luck, DVS1936

Posted on Nov 02, 2008

directcurent
  • 59 Answers

SOURCE: GE oven only heats up to 300 then shuts off

just a thought but maby the
tempature sensure has gone bad

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

  • 3230 Answers

SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

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1 Answer

What would cause the broiler element to override the baking element? My oven has lost its mind. It doesn't matter what setting I use, The broil element takes over and burns everything. Please help.


Not 100% sure but my guess. Most electric ovens usually bake with both elements on. The bake element(bottom) is usually on at full power with 240 volts to it. The broil element(top) is usually on at 1/2 power 120 volts to help even out the temperature. My guess is your bottom element is not coming on at all either because it is burned out or something in the control system. So what is happening is the oven is trying to heat to the set temp with only the top element keeping it on much longer than it normally should be on and burning everything. Now if you set the oven for bake and the top is on red hot, you have a control system problem something like a bad selector switch or main control board if the oven has a electronic control.

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Check the lower heating element for voltage (>180), if present then the element is bad.

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SMEG OVEN BRAND NEW WON'T HEAT


This tutorial will show you how to check your Smeg element and how to replace your Smeg cooker element.
Here are the 3 main faults to look for in your oven or cooker that is not heating
  • Your oven will not work until the clock/timer has been re-set after replacing an oven element or tripping the electrical supply. Consult your Smeg manual.
  • If your Oven is not getting hot or heating up it could be a faulty element, if the fan in the oven is running and the thermostat light is on, this will lead us to believe that the element has gone faulty. With grills the thermostat light should come on there should be heat, if not then this could be the grill element or the thermostat.
  • When you turn the oven on, the household electrical supply trips on the Rcd (this is the earth trip in the fuse board sometimes called the breaker tripping) your fan oven element has gone to earth and needs replacing.

If this helped you why not get me a beer? Paul is from the Naturally he would appreciate beer How to Repair Home...

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The heating element in the lower part of the oven burned. I was almost like a welding rod, it kept burning even when we had the oven off. I turned the power off at the fuse box before it finally stopped....


This sounds more like the electric control dial thermostat, keeping power on at the element, both element and control dial will need replacing

Jul 11, 2011 | Maytag Ovens

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I have recently moved into a new house and the oven settings on all three dials have been wore away and cant see which setting to use for cooking


Hello,
The control on the right is for temperature,0 to 275 degrees centigrade.50 is about at 2 o, clock and 275 is about 9 o, clock.Middle dial is for the timer.The left hand one is your functions.at 2o,clock is the light.At 3o,clock is conventional oven top and bottom elements heat.5o,clock is the top element for browning.7o,clock is the bottom element for crisping.9o,clock is the infra red grill for small stuff one element.11o,clock is the full grill for all.12o,clock is off.If you need to order the knobs the part no. is 3303563831. cost € 21.36.

Hope this helped.

May 24, 2010 | Electrolux EOB2610 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

Stove working, broiler working, oven NOT working .. explain pls.


Assumption: This is an electric oven(?).

You seem to be saying that the bottom heating element in the oven is not coming on.

This can be caused by three possible failures: 1. Thermostat (this is the dial you turn to set the temperature); 2. Selector dial (this is the dial you turn to select the mode (broil, cook, etc); 3. the heating element has failed.

My guess is that the heating element has failed (usually the culprit). It is easy to remove.
1. Unplug all power.
2. Unscrew screws at back holding heating element in.
3. Pull heating element out (it may may electrical connection with a jack built into the wall of the oven cabinet or it may have wires you have to disconnect).
4. If you know how to use an ohmmeter, check the element for continuity. It should have some resistance but not MegaOhms.
5. If you don't know how to check, take it to the parts store and let the counter guy check it for you OR just buy a new one and try it out.

If this was helpful, please select YES to the first two RATINGS questions. Good Luck!

Oct 15, 2009 | GE Ovens

1 Answer

My oven burns everything.


Use a 'oven thermometer' in the oven and determine the 'actual temperature' in the oven. Your knob setting is off (not calibrated) and the oven is hotter than the control knob setting.

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I just had a model 976-4CX put in...I have no manual...I'm trying to find one. I thought I had a problem with the element, dial or thermostat. The bottom worked, but the top stopped working. There are 2 timers with dials next to the clock labeled Start and Stop, and Push for Manual. Come to find out my problem was solved by adjusting the Start and Stop dials and/or pushing in for manual!?!
If I had a manual I'd know how these timers worked.

Nov 29, 2008 | Magic Chef 9522 Electric Double Oven

2 Answers

Zanussi zbf 760 (9 yrs old now)


This tutorial will show you how to check your Zanussi element and how to replace your Zanussi cooker element.
Here are the 3 main faults to look for in your oven or cooker that is not heating
  1. Your oven will not work until the clock/timer has been re-set after replacing an oven element or tripping the electrical supply. Consult your Zanussi manual.
  2. If you're Oven is not getting hot or heating up it could be a faulty element, if the fan in the oven is running and the thermostat light is on, this will lead us to believe that the element has gone faulty. With grills the thermostat light should come on there should be heat, if not then this could be the grill element or the thermostat.
  3. When you turn the oven on, the household electrical supply trips on the Rcd (this is the earth trip in the fuse board sometimes called the breaker tripping) your fan oven element has gone to earth and needs replacing.
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