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My John Deere LA175 will not start It cranks and turns over and when I put some gas in the air intake it will run until it uses all the gas. Is it a safety switch or carb problem?

Any safety switches that will cut the fuel supply off?

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: john deere lt120 , 2004

my zero turn z5426 keeps moving on the left side even when its engaged in neutral

Posted on Nov 05, 2008

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mowerman1857
  • 389 Answers

SOURCE: John Deere LA175 lawn tractor front wheel bushings

Remove the tire and wheel from the spindle. Take a long punch or similar item and reach in the center of the wheel hub where the spindle goes. Locate the space in between the inner and outer bushing and tap the edge of the old bushing until it comes out. Now go in from the other side and do the same with the other bushing. This one will be a little easier to do since you don't have to hunt for the center space. Put the new bushings back in the same way just be sure you drive them in STRAIGHT

Posted on Sep 18, 2009

  • 229 Answers

SOURCE: MOWER DECK BELT ROUTE FOR LA175 JOHN DEERE LAWN

you can try johndeere.com you should be able to find it there.

Posted on Oct 20, 2009

mickey813
  • 472 Answers

SOURCE: John Deere L120. Engine dies when PTO switch is pulled.

sounds like the seat switch is bad

Posted on Mar 02, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: John Deere will not start.

If you have gas running down to the carberator ( take the fuel line off and make sure there is gas running to it or there may be a screen or filter plugged by the tank or on the way to the carb) if there is gas there the problem lies in the carb itself. If you have some mechanical ability you should be all right as it is not rocket science. If you are comfortable with taking the carb apart the first thing i would check is the needle vavle. With the carb apart you will see a big brass looking thing this is the float, right above that is the neddle valve, that is the first place they seem to stick on me. Move the float up and down if the neddle above it doesn't move or sticks there is your problem. Spray it with carb cleaner and see if it moves freely. You may have to dismantle the carb to get it to work freely. If it won't buy a carb kit and install all the new gaskets needle valves and jets ( this is a very good ideal any how) Also make sure any little ports in the carb are open ( in the bottom of the carb there may be tiny little holes that are plugged) find a very small wire to clean them with and also make sure when you are done you can spray carb cleaner thru them. This is why they have a small straw on the can with it ( watch your eyes and wear safety glasses as you never know where it will spray out from) That stuff will dry your skin out fast so don't get it in your eyes and you may want to wear rubber gloves. Also be very careful when putting back together as there are little pieces that like to slide around and fall out or may get bent even worse you don't want them in your motor. Also try to count every screw you turn as these are jets and you will want to put them back to the place they were set at cause it's a pain to get them set right by adjusting them later. Do not force anything putting it back as you may bend the jets or float and you will have to take it apart again and replace them as well. Take your time and be patient and you will be just fine

Posted on May 08, 2010

Testimonial: "thanks...you gave me encouragement to give it a try. I took off the shroud, air cleaner box and couldn't take off the carb as there are no heads on the four bolts that hold it on. Looks like it was designed not to be removed? I took off an inspection plate on top of the carb and cleaned all of the channels and ports within with carb cleaner and compressed air...still no gas flowing thru carb...unless I force with compressed air. Any other thoughts? It is a twin cylinder OHV B/S. Thank you. "

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