I think i''ve blown the main circuit board on this unit.The one with the dials. I've still got power to the 110 but it sure makes the grinders wind out. There is only 3 boards And am hoping it's only the one burnt out.. Any suggestions on where to buy the boards cheap, or better yet if i can send this board somewhere to get looked over and fixed? Thanks
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Replacing and configuring a main power board to a Plasma display is not a simple job as you thinks. With only a multimeter, you can't do anything. It is a skilled work. Contact any experienced service technician. If you wish to get more details about the repair process of plasma displays, check this link. If you are not familiar with electronics, do not attempt to
repair.Whether you sufferfatal electrical shock!
Instead, contact the nearest service center.
It is due to power supply regulator fault. Check the main power supply regulator section circuits for any damaged [bulged] electrolytic capacitors. Replace the suspected capacitors. When replace an electrolytic capacitor, make sure about its polarity. Like torch batteries, these capacitors also have both [+ve] and [_ve] terminals, and should match it with markings at the printed circuit board, when replace them. If the polarity changes when replacing them, they might burst out. Normally, [-ve] marking will be there on its body. See the example of the suspected component. Both good and damaged. See the bulged capacitor and good one on the same frame.
Check for voltaged at the solenoid valve. This will either be a 24 volt or 110 volt solenoid valve. Confirm power into the unit 110 volts. If you have power into the unit and no voltaged at the solenoid valve on a call for humidification at the humidistat than the circuit board or the step down transfgormer has failed.. If you do have voltage at the solenid valve than the valve has failed.
The first thing I check is the electric plug at the wall outlet to make sure I have 220 volts you will need a electric test meter If you are not comfortable with this you need to get a licensed electrician, with a ohm meter you can check the limit switches and the door switch with the power off at the breaker. one of the 110 circuits run the motor the other the element.
Make sure there's power getting to the washer. Check for a
tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse. Check the wall socket for
power. Sometimes the power cord disconnects at the washer, if this is
the case, the wiring must be repaired or replaced.
Solved by resoldering some solder joints!!!!!!!
Toshiba Model 57H81 Rear Projection TV - Purchased 11-09-2001
Problem: Toshiba 57H81 Flashing Red Power Light, No Picture/Sound, Blown Fuses F850 + F852
Symptoms January, 2009:
Upon turning on set I got flashing red power light and nothing else.
Removing plug for one minute and plugging in results in:
Audible click, steady red power light for 2 seconds then slow flashing red light
Pushing power button results in steady red for about 2 seconds then slow flashing red light, no other set activity
Removing power cord for several hours and plugging back in made no change
Audible click, steady red for about 2 seconds then slow flashing red light
Possible related note:Over past several months occasionally the entire screen would flicker momentarily and at other times be problem free for weeks.
Fuses F850 and F852 found blown
PD0074 DEF/CON Power Board
There are two main power supply capacitors in this set.They are C-809 and C-810.One their negative lead on the printed circuit board re-soldered leads and nearby contacts. I’m told that because the factory left out a printed circuit board eyelet, the connection will come loose over time.When I called Toshiba customer service they said there was a known solder joint problem causing blinking red light.
Replaced blown fuses F850 and F852.
I actually installed a fuse panel on the inside of the cabinet and routed the fuse connections here instead of ordering the special fuses and replacing them on the circuit board.
Had to use a 5 Amp SLO-BLOW for F850. Fast blow does not survive power up. Get the red blinking light.
Twelve hours of my time over three days to research issue, disassemble set, make repairs, add fuse panel.
Already owned Service Manual and Circuit diagrams from a different 2004 repair.
Less than ten dollars at Radio Shack for fuses and fuse panel. Already had wires, etc.
Some solder. Already owned de-soldering tools, etc.
Visited both local authorized Toshiba factory service repair facilities.One said repair would have to include replacing Q751 + Q752 STK392-110 Convergence Amps with ST392-180, and realigning set for a total of $500+ and it would be more if they had to order a power board. NO THANK YOU!Other shop said $65 for site visit and $30 to make an estimate that could be applied to repair.
Firstly, try plugging the unit into another mains socket just to make sure it's not the socket that's faulty, or try another appliance in the socket you are using. Next, make sure the fuse in the plug hasn't blown. If you don't have a fuse tester, you can try the fuse in another similar appliance to see if it works. If it has blown and your spare lead is the same, there will be an internal problem. Inside the unit is an in-line 2 amp fuse. If this has blown you almost certainly have a power board problem. Always switch the mains off before plugging in or removing the mains lead from the rear of the unit. Back EMF can damage the appliance if you don't do this.