Question about Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Before assuming you have a bad heating element, read through the following link:
Most dryer heat related problems are attributed to poor ventilation which, in turn, causes the dryer to overheat to the point of failure. More commonly the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) fails. The component acts as a fuse and must be replaced if bad. In addition, if the TCO is determined to be defective, it is recommended that you replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat at the same time. Both these components work in conjunction with the heating element and are mounted on the heater box. The TCO is located on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat is located adjacent to the heating element leads. These two components are often sold as a kit. If you fail to replace both of them you can experience premature failure of the component you do replace.
Pay particular attention to the section that discusses proper dryer ventilation. If you haven't checked or cleaned the exhaust ducting any time recently, now might be a good time to do so . A dryer left in a clogged or poorly ventilated condition will cause repeated failures in the heating circuit. Not to mention this creates a fire hazard.
If you read through the link and determine that you have a bad heating element, follow these steps to remove:
1. Unplug the dryer and remove the lower panel under the door.
2. Remove the lint screen from the dryer door.
3. Remove the blower fan housing vent cover.
4. Disconnect and label the component wiring on the heater box.
5. Loosen the mounting screw on the heater box front support.
6. The entire heater box, with element inside, should slide out of the dryer.
7. There should be a couple of mounting screws on the component side of the heater box that you need to remove and the entire element slides out.
If you still have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Jun 12, 2009
The ignitor may be bad or the thermal fuse may be failed.
Posted on Aug 27, 2009
Testimonial: "I replaced both works great thanks for the conformation."
The F40 error is a communication error which means the main control W10111616 is not communicating with the motor control part number 8544799.
First - go through the machine and check all harneses 7 plugs. This expensive machine uses the cheapest parts possible. Unplug and re-plug all connections you can find.
Particularly the controller (CCU) and motor.
Most likely neither control is the problem but since the main control was replaced we know it's not the problem.
The key to diagnosing this problem is to check voltage to the motor control. There is a black and white wire going to L1 and neutral.
Refer to the wiring diagram for an image of this.
If there is 120 volts to the control and the blower motor is not running then the 8544799 motor control is most likely at fault.
It is more likely you will not read voltage there.
Use extreme caution checking live voltage and only do so if you're comfortable and confident using a volt/ohm meter.
If there is no voltage to the motor control and the main motor doesn't run the thermal fuse can be at fault or the main control which was replaced and didn't help.
From the description you give I believe the main motor is running when you get the F40 code so the thermal fuse and main control are most likely okay.
If there is no voltage to the motor control then the problem can be a fuse link that may be open preventing voltage from getting to the motor control.
This part is not the thermal fuse and is not listed in the parts diagram or even shown on the wiring diagram. The fuse link is most likely the cause of your troubles.
If the inline fuse link is open you will have to replace the entire wire harness. The inline fuse link is not available as a separate part.
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Posted on Sep 23, 2010
Check the burner tube and clean it out.
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Posted on Sep 30, 2010
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