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Whirlpool Home AppliancesIf you should experience a problem not covered in TROUBLESHOOTING, ... You willneed your model and serial number located on the oven frame behind the ...... TheACCUBAKE® system electronically regulates the oven heat ..... Range convertedimproperly. If propane gas is being used, contact a service technician or.
This is kind of hard to answer, You need good eyes or a magnifying glass. Was the range converted from natural gas to LPG (propane) or reverse? Basically, the larger the burner, the larger the hole in the oriface. If in doubt, you can try swapping 2 of them. (Use a 5mm socket).
Normally soot is from a range that hasn't been converted for the gas type, like natural or propane. It may be set up for natural when you're on propane or visa versa. Has this range ever worked properly without sooting?
Most ranges are easy to convert from propane to gas or vice versa. If there is a gas regulator installed on the back gas inlet, you could see if it is running 3-6" WC or 10-12" WC, The latter is for propane. If no regulator is present the orifice sizes will need to be checked. Propane has a higher caloric value than natural gas so the orifices are smaller. One way to see would be to install the oven. If the orifices are for propane and you are using natural gas there will be too little flame. I would estimate a conversion would cost no more than $250.00 to $300.00 depending on where you are. I would hire a professional to verify. I know it is expensive but the technician will be able to check your older oven (1985) for potentially dangerous gas leaks etc while he is there.
Yes. For the oven, it is usually 3 full revolutions CCW. (easiest to count 12 one quarter turns with an open end wrench) Make sure to go through and reverse all LP conversion steps, including the regulator adjustment.
I am not sure of the model number of my Garland gas range (propane) I bought it in 1970 from a farmer who had purchased it at a restaurant sale. It is OLD. (so am I) I have had trouble for years with the ovens going off at times and not relighting immediately. The right oven especially.
In the last 35 years I have had the thermocouplers replaced twice, the safety valves twice, and new pilots twice. The last time these were replaced was 6 months ago by a repairman who said this was the problem. Very spendy. The ovens still would go out. I had a thought (and related it to the repairman) that perhaps there wasn't enough air circulation to the oven burners (the top burners and grill worked fine) He said there was plenty of air getting to the ovens. Two weeks later I had my son help me move the stove out another 4" from the wall and I have not had one bit of problem with the ovens since.
You can buy new fire bricks for the grill at a heating shop. I am having trouble with the thermostats now, they don't regulate the ovens to coincide with the settings. I will have them replaced next.
Every one thinks I should just get a new stove. No way. This is a great old stove, I love it.
Msmaytag it sounds like the oven wasn't converted properly if at all to propane. If you look at the bake burner while the oven is on you should see very little yellow on the flame. If you see mostly yellow, try adjusting the air to more open. This will changed the air/fuel and may resolve the issue. If not, follow the directions for converting to propane and see if the orfice hood was either replaced or tightened down. I am not quite as familiar with the maytag is why I ask you to follow the directions. The issue with propane is that it runs at 10wc instead of the 5wc of natural gas. So double the pressure, you need more air to thin the fuel. Hope this helps.