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Re: compressor is not running, poping sound when...
The popping sound could be a direct short circuit, in which case you need to try to see where exactly the sound is coming from. You should then be able to correct it. Second thing is that it is possibly a bad starter relay and can easily be replaced. ratemeplease
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for now I think you need to unplug it and let's have a look at where the wiring goes in and hooks up to the compressor sounds like you got a short. we need to make sure the compressor Electrical prongs are not arcing. we definitely need to unplug it until we find out what's going on Appliance 911 Sea Breeze
Pull it out from the wall so the back is accessible.
Unplug it. Gotta stay safe.
Lie down and use a flashlight to look at the electrical wires and the component that they connect to. See if there is a red reset button on the compressor. Check the electrical supply cord with a continuity meter to determine if there is a broken wire.
Sounds like your unit may have a "burnt-out" compressor motor. This can happen when you have a "power outage" followed by a "power surge" when the power supply resumed. This is known as "electrical fusion" and should be covered by your Household Insurance ie EITHER repair or replacement of you fridge depending on the Insurer and/or the age of your particular appliance.
SOME units have an in-line FUSE [usually in a small box/case with a retaining screw near the compressor where the power cord enters the unit]. Make sure the POWER is switched OFF and the cord unplugged BEFORE you open the holder AND replace the FUSE with one of the same size/rating as already installed [assuming of course that there is a fuse present] ...
Its normal for it to start and stop.
Check the mountings are tight
Some of this might help...
Check your power cord and power supply, check the plug is clean and free from corrosion or dirt.
Plug another appliance into the same socket to check there is power at the socket.
Note: Electricity can cause serious injury even Death. Isolate your power supply from the mains switchboard.
Switch off and Unplug your appliance from the wall socket before attempting any repairs.
If its still under warranty, take it back to the store or manufacturer for replacement.
Call a serviceman to test the appliance for you,
If not you could...
Check your fuse in the device, you will have to dismantle the appliance. Some of them have a fuse to protect the motor.
Get your Multimeter and do some tests...
Test the flexible cord connections
Electrical tests included, visual inspection, Earth continuity, Polarity and Insulation resistance.
Examining cord for Damage
Disconnect flexible cord from power supply.
Check cord along the whole length for obvious damage
1: Visual Inspection
A visual test is necessary before using test instruments to ensure that all specific safety requirements are meet.
Check the general condition and safety of the cord, plug, cord anchorage, terminations and of the appliance itself.
2: Earth Continuity.
The earthing system of an electrical installation must be installed in a manner that will allow circuit protection devices to operate if there is a fault between live parts (other than Neutral) and the mass of earth. What to check: For class (one) 1 protectively earthed appliances only, test for very low resistance between exposed appliance metalwork and the earth pin of the plug. this resistance should be as low as possible and must not exceed 1 ohm. Note: the Exposed metal parts of a class 2 double-insulated appliance must not be earthed. Equipment requirements:
A Multimeter (Digital or analogue) Set on a ohm scale or an insulation tester that also has a continuity scale.
A set of leads.
Why is this test necessary:
An incorrect connection of phase and neutral conductors to fittings and appliances is extremely dangerous and has been the cause, either directly or indirectly of many shocks and fatalities. What to check:
Polarity tests are carried out to ensure that every single-pole switch operates in the active conductor or the circuit in which it is connected. Equipment requirements:
A Multimeter (Digital or analogue) Set on the resistance scale when the SUPPLY is NOT connected.
or a voltage indicator set on a suitable voltage rating when the supply is not connected.
4: Insulation Resistance
Why this test is necessary:
All live conductors (including Neutrals) and live parts must be insulated to prevent - Electric shock hazards from inadvertent contact.
- Fire hazards and equipment damage from short circuits. What to check:
Insulation resistance tests must be made between:
- Active conductors of a poly-phase circuit
- Active and Neutral
- Active and Earth
- Neutral and Earth
The insulation resistance between appropriate components shall be not less than 1 mega-ohm minimum Equipment requirements:
An insulation resistance tester which maintains an output of 500 volts when loaded with a 1 mega-ohm resistance.
A set of leads.
Different countries adhere to spicific Electrical (safety) Regulations and standards
This information is only intended to enlighten the novice, guide and remind someone already in the field of electrical installations.
DO NOT attempt any electrical repairs unless you have the appropriate background or training.
Usually resetting the freezer is as easy as unplugging the machine waiting 7 minutes and then plugging the machine in again. If the machine does not start the compressor and the you would then assure that the lights on the inside of the machine are working. You would then remove the panel on the lower back of the machine giving you access to the compressor area of the machine. You would then use the palm of your hand against the side of the compressor to feel for a vibration and to assure the compressor was running. If the compressor was not running you would then check the power cord going from your outlet to your machine and assure the outlet is supplying power to your machine. After assuring power is going to the machine you would then look at the small black box on the side of the compressor you would unplug your machine and then remove the small black box. This would give you access to the start relay and overload. Unplug the wires that connect the relay and overload and pull the relay/overload off the compressors three prongs that it is mounted to. You would first observe if there were any electrical burns on the relay and if there were not you would then hold the relay in your hand and shake the relay slightly, if you hear any rattling sound on the inside of the relay, then you would replace the relay. If you have a multimeter you can test the relay further to assure the relay is functioning properly. If you find the relay is functioning properly and there are no breaks, burns, or cuts in the power cord you would next look at the main control board having a short or the wires going from the control to the relay having a short. If you hear the relay makeing a clicking sound yet the compressor is not starting you would also replace the relay as well. If you have any further questions message me back I await your reply. Thank you, Rick
Electrical: A 115 Volt, 60 Hz., AC only 15- or 20- amp fused, grounded electrical supply is required. It is recommended that a separate circuit serving only your refrigerator be provided. Use an outlet that cannot be turned off by a switch. Do not use an extension cord QUICK REFERENCE TO YOUR MANUAL
Dust on the condenser coils can cause overheating, observe safety precautions then clean coils. Switch off the unit before you clean them. If the problem persists, test the compressor for overheating. Overheating will cause many problems with cooling ability. Leave the unit unplugged for 3 hours and plug it in again. If it starts working, the compressor is probably overheating (Observe cautions with food going bad). A simple cause of the problem might also be that there is not enough airflow Lack of airflow is the number one cause of compressor problems and thus an owner purchasing another unit for hundreds of dollars when you can fix it for free.There should be at least several inches distance between the sides and walls/cupboards/ceiling.
There is an in-line fuse mounted in the line supplying the power to the ice-maker. It is in the wire clipped to the side, change out this fuse asap. It is actually a 20-amp fused, associated with the grounded electrical supply.
You may order parts very cheap from here
TIME TO CHANGE YOUR FILTER
While your on the back of the system, please check the filter. There is a filter in the back of the fridge in the upper right hand side. If you do not change it, it will slow down the frig and burn it out permanently.
The lighting circuit and the compressor electrical circuit are independent from each other once they go past the electrical terminal block, (where the power cord connects to, on the back of the fridge).
For the description of the problem, it sounds like you have a loose power cord terminal connection at the block, a defective power cord or power outlet.
Try connecting the fridge on the other power outlet (if it is connected to a regular dual outlet ), some times the contactors, over time, tend to loose the grip on the power cord plug and the contact is lost, when you remove the plug from the outlet and plug it back in, restores temporarily the contact again, or, the plug itself can be defective and loses contact. Replacing the power cord and using a different power outlet (even if it is a dual) will let you know if that where the problem was. If that doesn't solve the problem, let me know and will do some more troubleshooting.
Good Luck and keep me posted.
if you keep starting it it will quit any way . but this sounds like a start relay or a bad or run cap / but you could have a bad compressor also . and if running on a long ext cord it cause this problem so ck these / hope this has helped mm feed back pls ..
all you need to do is replace the rtc overload contactor on the compressor body,this part supplies power to the start windings of the compressor and after the compressor is running it switches the electrics to the run windings,if it is defective it will sound as if the compressor is running but only on the start windings and will be quite warm and is actually not running to full speed and this will cause your cooling problem,sealed systems rarely leak out their refrigerant
Sounds like the compressor, starting capacitor has failed, you will need a repairman to check it out, i'm not sure if your models capacitor can be replaced seperately or if you need the whole compressor replaced. Good luck !