Question about Proview PL713S 17" Flat Panel LCD Monitor

5 Answers

Power Surge damage. Suggestions on which part to replace.

I've a Proview pl713s LCD monitor that has suffered damage from a power surge. I opened the monitor and all the circuit boards look clean (no burns). However, when it's given power, the power light flashes fast and continuously, but the screen stays black (with or without a signal feed). The VGA cable connects directly to the same circuit board as the ribbon cable going to the center of the LCD screen, and this circuit board is also connected to another circuit board that has components similar to those in a PC power supply unit (and to which the power cable connects). From that circuit board, 8 wires (4 connectors) connect to the side of the LCD screen. The first circuit board has a microcontroller and a has sticker labeling it with 01FM713B J52-001 The second circuit board is stamped by Mirage Electronics Co. and has a sticker listing a few numbers also. Would the surge damage have stopped at the second circuit board (maybe power is simply not getting to the LCD panel) or could there be damage to the first circuit board and possibly the microcontroler also? Just wondering what I should try to replace to get it working without buying another monitor. Also, none of the wires that I can see are burnt or melted. If it would help, I can provide pictures of the parts in question.

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  • Nathaniel Clark Nov 26, 2007

    Thanks for the reply. All the 6 450mF 25V Capacitors (located in a tight group) have blown by your description.

    As an enduser, where would I start in looking for a replacement board? Or could I just replace the capacitors?

    The board is stamped:

    Mirage Electonics Co. LTD.


    DATE: 10.20.2005

    200-000-170DTLAH VERSION: A

    The sticker just below the stamp is marked:



    K01-002 W


    The rest of the board looks undamaged.
    I've sent an email to Mirage Electronics asking about the board since I didn't see it listed on their website.

  • Nathaniel Clark Nov 26, 2007

    The capacitors are 470uF 25V
    My mistake

  • Nathaniel Clark Jun 10, 2008

    I ordered the capacitors from DigiKey and was able to solder them to the power board fairly easily. However, I made a critical mistake.
    After partially assembling the monitor, I plugged it into my laptop (which was on) then pluged the monitor into the wall.
    The outlet sparked and my computer stopped working and started smoking visibly. And the monitor still doesn't work.
    My dad thinks that the capacitors became charged when I plugged the monitor into my laptop and that they where somehow grounded and therefore discharged when the monitor was plugged in.

    So with no further ideas on how to fix the monitor or the now fried laptop. The monitor is being scrapped.

    Thanks for all your help, the soldering was fun and reasonably easy.

  • suninwest Mar 22, 2009

    nbanyan - you've described the parts in great detail. I have the same proview model. The monitor display went black, while the green power LED stays on. I dismantled the monitor (after spending a good amount of time trying to figure out how to remove the case, which was so tight) - and I see exactly those two boards what you've described.

    Jcan101 - you're accurate in your description of the possible cause. In the board where the power supply is connected (made by Mirage Electronics Co. Ltd.,) I see a tightly grouped 6 capacitors (470uF 25V). I see a +  symbol on top of the cylinder, when I checked those, 3 of them have a flat top while the other 3 have a bulged top - I can feel the bulging and it is very visible too. So, those 3 bulged top capacitors have blown and I need to unsolder them; replace with new ones. I don't have any prior experience in soldering/unsoldering. I will first buy the capacitors and then try it out. 

    I must tell you that I did a lot of googling to find out any solutions for this problem (proview PL713S) - I couldn't find any even in this site. Finally I googled for Mirage Electronics and landed on this post! This is great information and I will update once I try replacing the capacitors.

    Thank you all for great information. 

  • suninwest Mar 26, 2009


    I received the 6 x 470uf 25V capacitors today and replaced the 2 capacitors which had bulged top. put everything back and turned on the monitor - same problem. the display goes off after 2 seconds. opened it up again and checked all capacitors closely... hmm... noticed that the tiny 220uf 25v capacitor which is standing next to the group of six 470uf capacitors (in which I replaced two of them), has a bulging top! If I had noticed it before, I could have ordered for new ones along with 470uf capacitors and could have completed the job today. phew... now i need to get the 220ufs. Radio Shack has 220uf 35v capacitors. I'm not sure if I can use that instead of a 25v one. I will try to get a 25v one; replace the bulged up one and update the status - may be after a week. thanks.

  • jarl11 Apr 05, 2009

    I have a Proview PL2200W LCD flat screen 19" monitor. After a power surge, my monitor was blank. Luckily, I have an extra monitor so I can get back online. I opened it up & discovered the Mirage Electronics power supply board you describe. My power supply is somewhat newer &, it appears, has been updated. The capacitors, C211 - C214 have been upped to 680uF @ 25V. However, this didn't seem to keep it fm happening. Capacitors C215 & C216 are 470uF @ 25V, & they are also blown. I will attempt to replace these caps and check the rest of the power supply. I will let you know how it goes.

  • Anonymous Mar 23, 2014

    I have iiyama 5131bk lcd monitor the power led is on but no picture or no check for cable connection must be any problem with power inv board or mobo please help there is backlight that turns on after i press the power on botton but no picture and no check signal cable pleese any advise



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I would start looking at the power supply, it's usually a separate board where the a/c line plugs into. In many cases i have seen that the problem you described is from a damaged power supply, sounds like something is shorting causing the power supply to continuously come on and off. I would first check the capictors to see if any of them have blown, usually cylinder looking and sometimes you'll see an X or a K at the top of the cylinder, if it's blown then the top will be bulging out instead of being flat. If all those look good then there is probably a short somewhere else like in one of the transistors, if so you'd be best to just find another power supply board to replace.

Posted on Nov 09, 2007

  • Jcan1101 Nov 26, 2007

    If you have any soldering experience you can replace the capacitors with the same spec then that would get it working again, to find the capaictors you would need to look around for any local electronic stores in your area and get some with the same specs. As for replacement board i'm not sure the manufacturer is the only place i can think of. If you are going to replace the capictors your self be sure to remember it does matter which way you put them in there is a positive and negative side to them. If you don't have much experience in electronics it might be a good idea to have someone help you that does or do a little research on Internet about them to make sure they are installed correctly.


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Wow i found this post searching for that power-supply board type. Seems this PI-170DTLA is being used in many models, different brands and sizes from 17" up to 22".

- First of all: don't just replace those fried capacitors with a bulge but do yourself a favor and change them all.

- 2nd: These capacitors are so-called Low ESR types. That means they have a specially low inner resistance. You normally can't tell the difference between the cheap normal types and the low-esr types! There is ultra-low-esr, too. Its not necessary here but won't hurt either (if price is ok). Normal types will work for a short time (expect up to 4 month).

- 3rd: All these capacitors we have to change have a specific polarity. Inserted the wrong polarity these capaciors will die shortly if not immediately (sometimes quite audible!)

- 4th: There is a number 105° printed on these capacitors. Make sure your replacement has the same (or higher) number. Lower is bad - this is the maximum temperature in degrees centigrade for this piece.

- 5th: Do not exceed the dimensions of the old parts. A height of 20mm for the group of standing 6 capacitors (plus C217) is OK. C11 and C12 have to be laid sideways if they exceed the height of the old parts.

If that is all clear go and get some parts:
C211, C212, C213, C213 = 680µF 25V 105° (ultra-)low-esr type (Rev A was only 470µF but 680µF is definitely better here!)

C215, C216 = 470µF 25V 105° (ultra-)low-esr type

C217, C11, C12 = 220µF 25V 105° (ultra-)low-esr type

I am from germany and hav found an online shop totally dedicated in selling only low-esr and ultra-low-esr capacitors. I will place a link to their page here but i am sure you will find a shop in the states too.

Ok if you have your replacements and start replacing the capacitors watch out for the stripe on the side of the cylinder. That stripe has a "-" imprinted which marks the negative end of the capacitor (remember: polarity!!!). On the circuit board the negative end is marked, too: on top side (where the big items reside) the placemark for the capacitor is shaded black on the negative end. On bottom side (where the soldering is done) you find a sign like this "-| (-". The rounded side marks the negative end.

If you have to lay down C11 and C12 sideways then first align the polarity and then bend its pins. C11 is best laid down towards C22 (or up if you hold the board to read "MIRAGE") and C12 is best laid down towards C11 (or to the right).

If at hand use a fuse-checker on the 3 fuses (Identify: F203 is one of them right between C11 and C215) . No need to remove them from the board for tests.
If no other piece of the board looks burnt and your work looks good (dont forget to shorten the lenghthy wires of the new capacitors) and you made sure all new capacitors have the right polarity (capacitor-stripe to board-mark or "(" ) then reassemble the monitor and stop when you plugged all wires back to their respective places.

Put power back on to the AC-Socket >>without<< plugging your LCD into anything else (computer, ..), switch it on and if your backlight shines (maybe some message appears) you can relax, turn power off again (unplug ac cord!!!!) and finish assembling.

If anything goes like "zzzzt", "booom" or the led still only blinks around either you have done something wrong or some other part of your ac-board has gone, too.

Phew ... was only up for a brief description but it's gotten more and more

Contact me at "fixya AT geesen DASH home DOT de" if you like and all typos are legally mine. You can copy them if you like :)

Posted on Aug 13, 2009

  • archetrix Aug 13, 2009

    Me again .... found a (german) page with pictures of the board. I guess it will help somebody looking at a picture to identify if he's fiddling with the same board.

    As i mentioned this board seems to be universal. The pictures are taken of a 17" LCD Medion MD 32117.


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For the PL713S, if after replacing the 6 470's and the 220 caps, it still doesn't want to work, check the 100uf 400volt cap laying on its side close to the 470's. It was bad also on my monitor but after replacing it, the monitor works again......hope this helps.....

Posted on Apr 23, 2010

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Power Surge damage. Suggestions on which part to replace? This trouble maybe power supply or inverter boards is defective.
first you can test the voltage of the multr,and then check which part is defective.From can find those parts
if you have any question,please let us know,we sincerely hope we can help you!
you can also check this boards whether suit you:
PI 170DTLA 200 000 170DTLAH Proview 860 AB0 170DTLAH Power Supply...

Posted on Dec 01, 2014


Posted on Dec 15, 2007

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 859 Answers

SOURCE: Power Surge damage. Suggestions on which part to replace.

You probably have a sacrificial diode that blew out to save the rest of the monitor from further damage. The manufacturer should replace it with a refurbished one at little and sometimes no charge (comparatively speaking).

Posted on May 10, 2008

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