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Makita hr3851 drill does not turn rotary drill or cycle impact tools.

Splined sleeve in toolholder is split and does not turn with cylinder liner. Cylinder liner turns OK. Impact bolt is not moving freely. Piston and striker move freely. Motor runs OK.

Posted by Anonymous on


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  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi there,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2712 Answers

SOURCE: hammer drills and rotary hammers comparison

Basically yes. Lower power units are usually titled as "hammer drills." Higher power units, usually labeled "rotary hammers," tend to be larger and provide bigger impact forces. But there are a few differences that are worth knowing: The rotary hammer usually have a chisel only feature, for light chiseling and masonry removal. Rotary hammers also have specially designed chucks that only accept bits specifically designed to fit their chuck. The special chuck on a rotary hammer helps hold the drill bit and prevents it from slipping during use.

Posted on Aug 27, 2008

  • 154 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Bosch 11236vs and the hammer function

Most of the time the o-ring on the striker needs changed. Look closely at the hammer piston as well, once in a while (very rare) the piston will develop a crack that allows air to escape by the striker, keeping it from striking the impact bolt. Make sure to add a little extra grease when going back together as well.

Posted on Oct 21, 2009

  • 52 Answers

SOURCE: How to replace the hammer and striker

Sorry I couldn't be of more help. I've looked at about every DV 20 version parts list and cannot find a part 16 that would create any difficulty in removing. All are either gears, pins, or the plate that goes under the switch. from the way you are describing it it sounds like the only possibility would be the Model DV 20VB which has a spindle which has to be unscrewed from the drill chuck it is held in by a retaining clip that you would need retaining ring pliers to remove.

Posted on Feb 11, 2010

  • 1498 Answers

SOURCE: Hitachi Cordless Impact Driver gearing problem

Hi there,

The speed shift slider switch wasn't lined up correctly when the unit was reassembled.

Unfortunately, you going to need to repeat the disassemble/reassemble process once more.

I've been there. It doesn't take much to be out of alignment. Set everything to the lowest setting (clutch, speed) and take your time.

Best regards

Posted on Apr 22, 2010

  • 7733 Answers

SOURCE: diagram of side handle for makita rotary hammer

G to : Power Tool Parts and Tool Repair

Posted on Oct 12, 2010

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1 Answer

Makita hr3851 won't hammer or drill

Try pulling out the brushes and blow some air in were the brushes go it may have gotten some trash in between the brush and the armature . they may need to be replaced, here is a pleace that will give you a breakdown and sell you the parts.

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My makita hr3851 hammer drill will hammer but when switched over to hammer drill it stays in hammer mode. I have replaced the lever that changes from hammer to hammer drill and it still only hammers


How is the healt of this piece is it worn also the other part that will work together with this part must be replaced

Or hows the part connexion 221347-1 spiral bevel gear on the 152335-6 cilinder liner ?? i think its economic not interesting for repair because of the high prices. and the problem of discontinued parts in the prospect

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Makita have most cases a problem with the stroke bolt in front of the locking sleeve a broken ring that will blocked the stroke bolt.
In some cases the locking sleeve is also damaged , a rotary hammer is not made for demolition only a little small task but not for a long load , the metal pieces of the machine is no hard enough for long lasting .

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Apr 22, 2013 | Makita HR3851 Electric Rotary Hammer

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The usual point of failure for your problem is the con-rod (PN 312956-8) from the crank eccentric (PN321726-4) to the piston (PN321370-7). The good news is it's right under the large, black cap on top of the motor so it's easy to check. Just screw the cap off and check the con-rod. Keep the tool upright so none of the lubricant runs out of the crank case. It's usually thick enough to stay in but can be runny if warm enough. If that's OK you will have to go further into the tool to check the free movement of the impact bolt (PN323718-9) and striker (PN321369-2).

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possible broken spindle or gear in the gear case

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Made in China now, good luck with that

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you need to get that service,
the grease causes the hammering.
and probably too much pressure was applied
to it.

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