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Amana in wall oven display not working but oven works

The oven works but the display does not what are my options thanks don

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  • Don Herchuk Apr 23, 2013

    rich,model # is AEW353ODDS thanks for your help ,Don

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  • Kitchen Ranges Master
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What is the model number?

Posted on Apr 23, 2013

Testimonial: "Hi rich model # is AEW35ODDS again everything works except for the display thanks for your help, Don"

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

dblred
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SOURCE: Amana oven does not work.

the most likly problem is the bake ignitor is bad. this is a common part to fail in gas ovens. the bake ignitor part number for your model is 31940001, and price ranges from $45-$75. a bad clock can also cause this issue, but I would start with the ignitor. let me know if you have further questions. shane

Posted on Jun 29, 2009

  • 61 Answers

SOURCE: Oven won't work - digital display/control stopped working

probably a bad control board chekc out www.appliancepartssolutions.com
cheep parts...good luck

Posted on Jan 21, 2010

aborcass
  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: Amana stove, oven igniter works but oven wont light

although the bake ignitor appears to be glowing, it probably does not glow with the intensity it needs to open the safety valve assy, VERY common problem, go aheadand replace the ignitor, this will correct your issue

Posted on Feb 09, 2010

Testimonial: "100% correct, I ordered the part from on line and it was a very easy fix and the oven is working great. Thank you"

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: F1 code

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Oct 01, 2010

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