The table can be cleaned and waxed with a good quality paste wax like Trewax clear. If it has rust, you can use automative polish/cleaner and a rag or fine scotch pads to get the rust out, then wax the surface to protect it. Period waxing will maintain a low friction surface through use. Old timers used to recommend rubbing the bare steel table with talc to seal the pores, but I find was is more readily available and gives a better surface for use...Wax is also good on the moving parts of the fence.
The worm gears and trunnions can be cleaned with compressed air and regular 30w motor oil in a pump can. Maybe a soft wire brush or toothbrush if needed to remove built up resin and pitch. If there's a really heavy build up on the gears, get some OxiSolve bit and blade cleaner from Woodworker's supply and it will safely dissolve the gunk to a consistency you can scrub off with a toothbrush. I maintain these moving mechanical parts with oil, which an old pro recommended years ago, and have found it doesn't contribute to sawdust build up as you think it might, not nearly so much as an assembly lube or white grease, and makes raising and lower the blade a joy. If you're concerned about dryness, you can try triflow or some kind of bicycle chain lube, but I've decided the expense isn't worth the results, and oil is readily available when I need it...
If replacement parts are available for your model, try here.
Otherwise, and for older machines, you might find a manual or parts info at this site.
After market fences are available for your saw, and depend on user preference. I've been very happy with my Biesemeyer fence, after using it (and many others) for 22 years. It is also heavy duty.