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How can I make the stitches tighter?

How do I make the stitching tighter. Its the first time I have ever used an overlocker. When stitching together the stitches are big and loose. All the dials are on 3.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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bargainbox
  • 1388 Answers

SOURCE: Machine not sewing

Make sure you have threaded the machine from right to left, it sounds like the needle thread is trapped under the lower looper thread and cannot form a stitch.........start the threading over from scratch like this:

  1. Lower Looper
  2. Upper Looper
  3. Left Needle
  4. Right Needle
Is there a diagram for how to thread on the inside of the door ?

Follow that slowly and carefully to make sure you have not missed any thread guides on the way, as each one needs to be followed through to ensure correct tension and thread progression.

If you are certain that all threaded correctly, did you have a fabric jam and pulled it loose ? If so, the timing may well be affected.

Post an update and we'll get this right.

Bargain Box

Posted on Feb 03, 2008

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bargainbox
  • 1388 Answers

SOURCE: Loose stitching underneath. HOW CAN I FIX!!!!

I'm **t sure what you mean by freehand stitching........do you get a good even stitch with zig zag, this is the most important first test ?

Ensure that all is clean and free of lint jams....**w for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you can**t form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me k**w if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "k**tting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and **t to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do **t gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would **t recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small *****s and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (**t soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is ** lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension ***** in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other ***** at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is **t a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's ** trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension ***** very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it can**t be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....** case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (a**ther reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistant diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !

If you want any more help with this, just post back here, or, drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at www.bargainbox.com.au

Posted on Mar 09, 2008

  • 106 Answers

SOURCE: bernina 1300 dc overlocker skipping stitches

Make sure the chain stitch thread is threaded exactly as it should be, make doubly sure the thread comes off the bobbin vertically and runs through all eyes smoothly. Any faults in the threading causes extra tension at the needle despite what the tension is set on.
If this is not the cause then the needle depth and the looper timing needs checking.
Rob

Posted on Mar 30, 2008

akylas
  • 26 Answers

SOURCE: thread wont overlock

When the thread breaks too often, try these, that goes for all sewing machines
1. Replace the needles,
2. Loosen slightly the tension of the needle threads.
3. The top threads are to thin,
4.The sewing (rotary) hook or looper, has burs,
5. Wrong threading

Posted on May 28, 2008

  • 323 Answers

SOURCE: Loose stitching underneath. HOW CAN I FIX!!!!

Sounds as though you may have a burr or rough spot on the hook where the bobbin inserts. Run your finger along the edge of the hook to see if there are any rough spots.I'm sure you're going to find at least one from the time you broke the needle.Once you locate it, remove it with an emery stick or small sharpening stone. Polish it so that it is smooth. Should work okay.
sewman7

Posted on Jun 27, 2008

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1 Answer

Setting a elna 792d for rolled hem


I don't know your model in particular but generally this is how you set up a serger/overlocker to create a rolled hem. Remove the left hand needle and thread if 4 threads are threaded). Now there is usually a lever around the stitching area that you slide back towards you to remove the stitching finger back (disengaged). Then you adjust the top looper tension looser (about 2-3) and lower looper tension tighter (7 or 8). Leave needle tension at normal tension (5). You may need to move the cutting blade to the right too. The technique is to cut the fabric wider but with a narrow stitch so the cut edge rolls under within the stitching. You want the top looper thread really loose so it rolls right around underneath up against the needle thread, the lower looper thread needs to be tight and almost invisible, pulling the upper looper thread down. I usually do a few test runs and check the stitching. Once happy, I turn the stitch length right down to 1 so it is very dense. This uses a lot of thread up.

Ideally use a wooly overlock thread on the upper looper as this "fluffs" out once stitched and "fills" in covering the fabric edge completely.
some good images here
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A serger (overlocker) is not a sewing machine. If you look at the inside seams of a purchased t-shirt, you will usually find a serge stitch that was created using a serger (overlocker). A serger/overlocker usually uses 3 or 4 threads to create that stitch. It also trims the fabric at the same time it finishes the fabric edge. The serge stitch is a chain stitch that, if you pull a particular thread, the entire stitch will come undone.

Your sewing machine is not able to create that same stitch. Your sewing machine may have what is called an "overlock" stitch, but it will use only 2 threads (the top and bobbin) to create that stitch. You would have to consult your owner's manual to see if it can make an overlock stitch.


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I am trying to alter a swim suit, and I need to use a stretch stitch. Does the Singer model 2638 have this feature?


Here is the stitch selection page from your manual

tally_girl_49.jpg
I would suggest that you use the stitch called "elastic overlock" using a stretch needle, you need a ball point tip on the needle to press between the elastane fibres in lycra. A stretch needle is blue, coated with a substance that makes it easier to stitch these types of man made stretch fibres, often size 75. If you can't get one of those, then use a ball point needle, size 70 or 80.

You need a stitch with forwards and backwards movement so that the stitching doesn't break under stress. Your machine also has a stretch straight stitch and this would be a forwards and backwards straight stitch so this will work too but can look a bit 'heavy' sometimes. But even triple zig zag narrowed down will work often.

If you are sewing leg edges with lycra, shop made garments will have clear swimsuit elastic sewn into the seam using a coverstitch overlocker, you'll never get as good a result with a regular sewing machine but you can get a reasonable finish with practice. This elastic is available to buy, you might want to use the overlock stitch to attach it to the fabric edge, stretching as you go, then turn it to the inside and use a stretch twin needle and straight stitch to top stitch from the outside, stretching the fabric as you sew.

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1 Answer

How do i adjust the loose thread on top? Using the 3 thread stitch the top loop is loose and bulging over edge instead of smooth with rest of stitches. Setting is set to recommended setting but is still...


I always adjust my overlocker stitch in several ways. I start test serging with the blade set right out to the right so that it "fills" the stitching. I'll set all the thread dials to the middle setting, ie. 5. Then I test serge, and check the stitch formation. If the needle is looping underneath, then I'll tighten it "A LITTLE". If the looper threads are lying off the cut edge of the fabric, then I'll dial both the top and bottom looper numbers up a little to make those threads tighter.

Each fabric behaves differently depending on its "hand" so the right stitch settings do vary, ie. organza is different to heavy weight cotton or denim. So if my inital setting is then "bunching" up the fabric within the stitching, I will then lower the numbers for the top and bottom looper to release the thread some. And if the fabric is very soft and light and still bunches up, then I will move the blade over to the left some, cutting a narrower edge within the overlocking so the threads lie better.

So revist the settings, check that the cones are flowing freely, thread is into the tension devices fully, then retest the stitching. If it is the top looper only that is looping off the edge, and not the bottom as well, and they are both set to the same number, then I'd be a bit suss about the tension dial.

Feb 28, 2011 | Singer 14SH654

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How do I overlock stretch fabrics so the stitches won't break when the fabric stretches?


I suggest also setting the stitch length to about 2 (very close together). When the stitch is shorter, it seems to be able to give a little more. I also use woolly nylon, but I still had the problem (especially when hemming). This is how I solved my problem....

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Bernina 1300 dc overlocker skipping stitches


Make sure the chain stitch thread is threaded exactly as it should be, make doubly sure the thread comes off the bobbin vertically and runs through all eyes smoothly. Any faults in the threading causes extra tension at the needle despite what the tension is set on.
If this is not the cause then the needle depth and the looper timing needs checking.
Rob

Mar 14, 2008 | Sewing Machines

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