- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Take plug out of saw, ground it out on metal cylinder, slowly crank saw and see what kind of spark you have. Quick,bright blue fire is good, yellow or huge kernel fire is not. No fire is ignition module. If soaked with gas change plug if that don't do it, it is time to put a kit in the carberator.
First thing you need to check is the cylinder.Take the spark plug ouy.use a flashlight and look down the hole towards the muffler side.If its scratched up afraid the motor is shot and will need to be rebuilt.If its not scratched up let me know on here.Then I will give you more things to check.
Make sure the muffler has not become plugged. Check the flywheel key as it may have sheared off for some reason causing the timing to be off, yet still generate sparks. Are the sparks blue and snappy? If not, check the ignition module gap to the flywheel magnets--use a thin business card for a gauge. A wide gap can cause weak spark. Hope this gets you running again!
Ignition module gap Place a business or index card between the fly wheel and coil, rotate until the magnetic attraction pulls everything tight together. Tighten the coil screws, rotate the flywheel until the attraction eases and remove the card. Ensure nothing contacts when flywheel is rotated.
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH Lou
I too have a rancher 55 and had what sounds like the same problem this week. It would start fine but run for only a few seconds at a time. I took it all apart today and found the problem - a cracked fuel line. In the places where I could see the hose it looked fine, but it wasn't until I removed the fuel tank that I found the crack...right where it exits the tank and then goes thru the housing above it. You don't need to remove the tank to replace the hose but it is easier that way. You do have to push it thru a grommet at the top of the tank. I read some other posts about checking the tank vent to see that it's not plugged up. Mine was ok so I knew it had to be something else. The vent is in a hole about the size of a pencil and is recessed about an inch into the tank on the upper right side. Its partially covered by a plastic cap that's part of the vibration damper, which can be removed to gain access to the vent. The vent tube can then be pushed out from inside the tank with the use of long needle nose pliers, but be gentle. I just loosened it then pushed it out with a finger. I put it all back together with a new hose and its running like new again!