I suggest you open the fuel tank and "fish" up the fuel line hose with the filter attached. Simply blow out the filter. That should allow your engine to get necessary fuel to carbuetor. This is 90% of today's no start problems.
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try replacing the spark plug with a new one
compression alters the resistance to spark across the gap so it may be shorting out under compression
I have known instances where a plug shows a good spark but when inverted into the head , the insulation moved down and shorted out the spark
the gap can be closed to less than .020" and see if that helps
Hello Margaret, I would purchase a compression tester from a local parts store and check compression. They simply screw into the spark plug threads, then you pull on the starter rope a few times and observe the reading. You should have at least 60 psi of compression. If compression is good, I would then check spark. Spark testers are fairly cheap and are available at your local parts store too. If you just replaced the carb, Im willing to bet you will find your answer with the two solutions I mentioned. If spark is weak, the coil can be adjusted closer to the flywheel. If compression is weak, your probably looking at a new cylinder/piston and may not be worth fixing. Hope this helps. Good luck and happy wrenching!
3 most common possibilities: Most gas mower carburetors have a tiny hole for the fuel to rise into the vacuum venturi throat of the intake. The hole in this riser tube which goes down the center of your float chamber to the area where the fuel sits in the bowl is only about as big as dental floss. Take the tine of a wire brush to clear it of crystallized or varnished gasoline and oxidized pot metal tube crust. When they make stainless carburetors, it will eliminate half of the heart attacks caused by this problem. Additives and condensation that settle out in old gas also can lead to clogging. Another very common problem is shearing the aluminum alignment pin in the top of the crankshaft when the mower whacks a log, root or rock. The inertia splits the alignment pin in half and throws spark timing off. So it backfires or won't run. Also check your spark by grounding the fat end of the sparkplug with a jumper cable to the engine casing, leave it plugged to the wire and pull the cord to see if it is firing. Keep spark away from fuel. Ignition points in some small engines get crusty when sitting in humid conditions. So they have to be filed clean of oxidation for proper contact and sparkplug operation.
Some people use an actual compression testing tool that measures psi and some people just put their thumb over the spark plug hole and pull the rope quickly and see if it pushes their thumb off the hole.
Next step would be to check the ignition module(coil),I have a lawnmower that uses the same 2 cycle engine. Check coil for spark by removing the spark plug from the block then connect the insulator side of the sparkplug back to the coil then ground the plug by touching the threaded side to the block away from the sparkplug hole while turning the engine over. Should see a spark, if not you'll need a new coil,not hard to replace. calls for Briggs & Stratton #80-1268 you can also use a Toro/Lawnboy coil #99-2911 or #99-2916 or #684049.
dont sound good but you could try this, put some motor oil in the cyclinder which gives it false compression couple of table spoons ,remove the spark plug put 2 spoonsfull in the cyclinder put the sparkplug back in it should start sometimes it will free the rings or if it just runs a little then quits the rings or ring could be stuck
Priming the engine(put some gas in the sparkplug hole ,after you have checked the sparkplug,the colour of the spark has to be violet).Start the engine.If it starts there is a carburation problem,change the fuel lines to primer bulb.
Suggest , Clean Spark plug with Gas and wire brush.... drain all gas, add new gas with correct gas:oil mixture..... spray Gumout/Carb cleaner in air intake and spark plug hole.. these are the easy solutions to try.. good luck -Doug