Question about Whirlpool Gold GI6FARXXB 25.5 cu. ft. French Door Refrigerator with SpillGuard Glass Shelves, Accu-Chill, Fast Cool, Energy Star Qualified, Tap Touch Controls and External Ice/Water Dispenser: Black
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Okay, here's a bunch of info in the order I would troubleshoot since the one year warranty expired.
1) The water filter might be clogged. Try just removing it to see if it makes ice. If it does change the water filter.
2) The water inlet valve might (still) be defective. The water inlet valve is an electro-mechanical valve. The coil can show good for continuity and still not let the water thru although you didn't say if it worked when he left. if recently replaced it should be under his warranty.
3) The water pressure in the house might be too low. The water inlet valve which supplies water to the ice maker is designed to work with a minimum of 20 psi of water pressure.
4) The door switch might be defective. When the freezer door is opened the freezer door switch does two things, it turns on the light in the freezer and turns off the ice maker and dispenser. If the door switch fails the dispenser will not turn on. The switch can be checked for continuity with an Ohm meter. If it doesn't have continuity it should be replaced.
5) It could be that the ice maker assembly itself is defective. The freezer temp should be between 0-5 degrees for the ice maker to cycle properly. There are several components in the control module of the ice maker that can fail and most are not sold separately. Also, ice makers have a relatively short lifespan and so it might not be worth fixing. If other, simpler parts like the water inlet valve or shut off arm have been ruled out, and the only thing left is the ice maker itself, replace it as a unit. Not as expensive as you may think...Under $100
6) The icemaker module at the front might also be defective. The module has a motor that cycles the ice ejector arms around to push the ice cubes out when the ice maker thermostat closes. It also has contacts in it for the mold heater and water inlet valve. The motor or contacts of the module can fail. Usually there are test points in the module that a service person can use to determine if there is a problem with it or one of the related ice maker components.
7) The icemaker mold thermostat might be defective. Inside the control module of the ice maker is a thermostat which monitors the temperature of the ice mold (ice tray). Once the mold reaches the proper temperature the ice maker starts a harvest cycle by ejecting the ice cubes and refilling with water. If the mold thermostat is defective the ice maker doesn't advance. The thermostat can be checked for continuity. Replace it as needed.The freezer temp should be between 0-5 degrees for optimum performance.
Unplug your unit and let it sit for 24 hours. It will melt the ice and then you can dump the overflow tray located on the bottom of the unit. You may have to remove the guard in front to access the overflow water tray.
if it is leaking, and not just from any of the relief valves, you will need to replace it. There is not much you can do. If it blew the circuit breaker, there is probably a build-up of sediment inside that is surrounding the element and making it overheat. By the sounds of it, replacement is the option.
The most likely problem is that the thermostats are set too high. Remove the thermostat cover plates and look to see where the thermostats are set. The range should be between 120F and 135F. Liquids expand with heat so the higher the temp, the high the pressure. Decrease the setting on the thermostat until the leak stops.
The other likely cause is a head of air trapped in the top of the tank. After drawing hot water, it wiill be displaced by the incoming cold makeup water. This will compress any air in the top of the tank. As the water heats, the air will heat and pressure will build - possibly causing the leak. You can purge the tank of air by opening the pressure relief valve until water comes out (which I assume that you have already tried).
***UNPLUG THE UNIT***
Take the cover off the back where the tubes go from the compressor into the freezer. If you can see into the freezer AT ALL, you have a mouse issue. Plug this hole with expanding foam. If you're getting room air into the freezer and your door seals aren't coming apart, it's usually from the rear. Make sure to melt all ice that formed in the bottom of the freezer before you plug it back in.