Shutter curtain dont reset mirror in certain speeds
It started when choosing 1/125th speed, the curtain wouldnt go all its way to reset the mirror, i would have to either slam the camera or i could touch the curtain (not a option when film is loaded) to fully reset the mirror. Its gotten worse, now 1/60th and 1/250th speed show the same problem and slamming the camera wont help anymore, so i if take a pictuer at those speeds, i will probably have to take the next one blindly at any other speed to reset the mirror.
would it be expensive to fix this? could i do it myself? things are expensive down here and this camera has been serviced before...I wouldnt like to give up on this camera, its been with me for a while.
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Re: Shutter curtain dont reset mirror in certain speeds
your K1000 needs a clean, lube and adjust. ( CLA ) the shutter must be repaired and calibrated. not a hard job, but a special calibration instrument must be used to calibrate all shutter speeds.
slamming the camera just makes things worse, you could brake the meter. take or send your K1000 to a camera repair shop and get an estimate for a CLA.
there are no new parts available, so if the camera requires parts the shop should state good used parts only.
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If your shutter curtain doesnt close, it may be out of Sync with the shutter button. My Minolta x700 had this problem. My camera guy fixed it for me with a couple of tinker moves. Contact your nearest camera repair shop (if available) and ask how much it would be to fix the Sync between depressing the shutter button and the curtain. it may just be some grime that has it stuck.
It's not the aperture, it's the shutter speed. It's also not the mirror, but the shutter. The camera's fastest shutter sync speed is 1/200. You must use a shutter speed no faster than that. Due to the construction of the shutter, the frame is not fully exposed simultaneously at faster speeds and thus part of the image is blacked out.
Using a flash, the amount of light is controlled almost exclusively by the flash; the exposure is controlled by the aperture and the shutter speed is all but irrelevant.
That's entirely correct. 1/250th is the fastest shutter speed you can use when using flash. Many other cameras can still only use 1/60th or 1/125. It's all to do with the two curtain nature of an SLR shutter: when you release the shutter, one curtain withdraws across the frame to expose and then a second one follows behind to shut off the light source. For exposures of 1/250 or slower on your camera, the second curtain does not start to travel across until the first one has fully opened, so you have a fully open exposure frame allowing the flash to reach every part of the sensor. At faster speeds, the second curtain sets off before the first one has finished and at the highest speeds it's so close behind the first that only a narrow **** is open to the incoming light as the shutter curtains pass across the sensor. If you fire the flash at these speeds the shadow of the first or second (or both) curtains will appear on the sensor and the picture will look like a narrow horizontal band, or if using fill in flash, it will look like a bright band across the picture.
It's immaterial though as the normal exposure rules don't apply with flash: the flash duration is typically anywhere from 1/4000th to 1/50000th and in that exposure time it outputs sufficient light onto the subject to enable a photo to be captured. As the flash is the dominant light source, the ambient light captured when the shutter is open for 1/250th is insignificant unless you're making a daylight exposure and using the flash for fill in purposes.
There are some specialist SLR and flash combos which will allow the full range of shutter speeds, but they do so by firing the flash multiple times very rapidly to ensure that there is flash light present effectively continuously as the narrow exposure **** passes across the sensor.
Compact cameras have shutters which work differently and which fully
expose the sensor at all shutter speeds, so in that respect they can
have a far more flexible flash exposure system. Unfortunately, they ruin
it by having pathetically weak built-in flashes which are only good for
very short distances.
Yes. If you were able to set a faster shutter speed, then you would not expose the entire frame and would have the shadow of either the first or second shutter curtain (or both) partially masking the frame.
At higher speeds, the shutter is never fully exposed: before the first shutter curtain has finished travelling across the frame, the second one has stated it's journey. All SLR's have this issue and on some older models you could only use a maximum 1/60th of a second.
In practice though, in dark conditions the "slow" shutter speed does not affect exposure as the true exposure will be determined by how much light the flash puts out, and it puts this light out in as little as 50 microseconds (50 millionths of a second) for a modern electronic flash bulb.
Faster shutter speeds can be used successfully, but only with flashes which operate in high speed mode. What they do is to make the flash burst seem longer by rapidly firing the flash bulb many times. This trick can ensure that there is sufficient light to expose the frame at the highest shutter speeds. Shutters which operate at, say, 1/4000 may seem fast, but compared to the speed at which a single electronic flash burst operates, it's an eternity.
Unless you are using high-end Nikon Speedlights with camera and flash set for Auto FP High-Speed Sync, your top flash sync shutter speed on the D80 is 1/200 second. The black band you are seeing at faster shutter speeds is because the second curtain of the shutter begins to close before the first curtain reaches the fully-open position (which is when the flash fires). The higher the shutter speed, the shorter the gap between first and second curtains. To get full exposure with flash, there must be an instant when the shutter is fully open -- first curtain completed travel, second curtain not started yet.
"As the speed increases the final image should get lighter" applies to ISO speed. Higher shutter speeds mean less light reaching the sensor, but that's not the cause of the black bands.
The D80 is not able to set exposure with non-CPU lenses like your Soligor, so it probably is very far off on the correct exposure. You must operate in Manual mode and choose a shutter speed appropriate for the lighting. Reflex (mirror) lenses have no aperture adjustment, and I'm guessing your Soligor 500mm is probably f/8 like just about every other 500mm reflex. A good starting exposure for a typical sunlit scene would be 4x your ISO setting. For example, at ISO 400 set your shutter speed to 1600.
Sounds like you are having some photo taking issues. There is a rule of thumb for shooting, It is the focal length must be equal to or less than the shutter speed. Example. 100 mm lens must have 1/100 of a second or faster when hand holding a camera. If your shots are too blurry or out of focus, try using faster film speed, ie. 400 asa or 800 or 1600, try using a flash if you are going to be at 1/60 a second. The faster the film you use, allows you to have a faster shutter speed. Another option is to use a tripod, and then your shutter speed is irrelevant.