It works fine on ac. all other appliances work fine on propane. the tank is 3/4 full the flame will go out and the check light comes on sometimes it will stay lite for 2 hours sometimes for 2 minutes. it dosn't make a differance if I'm on the road or parked
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: refrigerator on rv keeps going out
Two reasons, first would be that the burner is dirty and needs cleaning. Second is that the thermocouple is either faulty or incorrectly installed. By this I mean that it might be slightly too far away from the flame to be able to conduct sufficient heat to keep the thermocouple open. This can happen when you park or drive and the rv is at different angles. So the flame does not heat the thermocouple enough and it shuts off the supply.
Norcold had my repair person replace the burner assembly and wiring harness - that fixed the problem - after lots of thermocouple and other replacements that did not work. Seems Nocold made a change and knew about the problem - just didn't tell anyone.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Give Arcticold a call. We will help diagnose the problem free of charge. I would help on this site but will require a lot more info. Toll free 1-888-782-6665 I have attached a video that may help.
You may wish to check the flue clear anything that you find. Old birds next etc. Also make sure the flame and orifice are clean free from debris or rust. Propane should burn blue not orange. Incorrect gas setting if the flame is orange. Some yellow at the tip is ok. Proper adjustments are critical. Have you tried the unit on AC?
Other tips I have read indicate possible freezing in the back.
Defrost freezer completely as some here mentioned and restart see if this helps. Here is a good RV forum I saw good tips worth investigating.
This is an RV frig correct? It SHOULD work either/or. AC or DC. If your plugged into AC then often the frig will work with that alone. DC is for when you have no AC so you can power your appliances of the battery. Maybe you have a converter (AC to DC which most RV's do) that somehow is not getting the DC to the frig.
your refrigerator is an ammonia absorption system it does not have a compressor only a series of closed pipes and small tanks located behind the styrofoam box so; to operate yout refrigerator you need: a propane flame or, a 12 volt heating coil or an AC transformer to heat the system depending on if you have a 1,2,or, 3 way system. also; these refrigerators will only work if you are on level ground so check your fuses, transformer and, or, your gas thermocouple: the thermocouple is a rod that sits in the burner flame to control the gas valve if you see some yellow dust around the back of the refrigerator you have a leak of the sealed system don't buy a new refrigerator just replace the system and, be sure that you remove the twisted metal riser in the top of the refrigerator vent pipe to use in your new system or, nothing will work the ammonia absorption sealed systems can be bought on ebay etc.
ammonia absorption refrigerators need continuous heat either by a heating coil powered by a transformer or, a propane flame check/replace your gas thermocouple or, transformer to the heating coil located on the refrigerator back
Assuming this is on a travel trailer / RV, correct?
The red "check" light indicates that the fridge was not able to detect the presence of a flame from the burner area. This could be due to low LP gas pressure (causes different flame size), no LP gas (tanks are exhausted / turned off), damaged wiring going to the igniter / sense electrodes, defective gas valve, or damaged igniter / control board.
Few items to check first.
Inspect propane regulator.
#1 Is the RV on level ground?
#2 Purge the air pocket in the line.
Turn on all you stove heads. Let it burn for 3 minutes to eliminate air pocket on propane line.
#3 Inspect for leak marking on the outside panel.
I have to ask, what is idle mode? I've never seen one that runs on idle mode, in a RV in 15 years. Has anyone used a manometer and tested Inches of water column in propane supply to fridge, as well as other appliances? Any I've seen run on propane, are either on, (flame present, or off, no flame present.) Flame goes out completely when not calling for cool.