My guest spot flood light will go up but immediately goes back do
My guest spot flood light on my boat will go up when holding down the button, but when you release the button it goes straight back down by itself, i have upper and lower controls.how do I repair this problem?
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
the light switch is in the power up button...turn the unit on let it boot up then push power button to set light as you want it do not hold down power button that will just turn unit off.. push the power button just one time if you want light brighter push till you get the back light you want
There are so many variables to answer this that more specific information is required. 1. Depends on both mineral deposits in the affected area and nearby industry that may cause pollution. 2 & 3. Depends on terrain, objectives and application. 4. Depends on type of plants desired and their tollerances to existing soil conditions. Also, economics of soil modification.
Sorry for the delay. I don't understand why they have the third "on/off" switch. Normally on a boat like yours, the set would be as follows :
Each pair of batteries would be jumped together to make a single large bank. We can then consider them "bank 1" and "bank 2" usually they will correspond to port and starboard.
Now you will take the positive lead from bank 1 and connect it to B1 on the port switch and then jumper it to B1 on the starboard switch.
You will do the same for bank 2 and the starboard switch.
The "common" on each switch will be your positive output to the motors corresponding them to port and starboard.
Now you can run your port motor with the port switch selected to battery 1 and the starboard motor with the starboard switch selected to battery 2.
Your emergency parallel is already built in. If battery bank 1 dies, you can start both engines with battery bank 2 and vice versa. Putting the switche(s) to the "all" position will allow you to start/run the engine(s) form both banks at once.
You can use the third switch to supply the "house" system. Take its power feed from the "common" terminal on either of the battery switches. In this way you can isolate which battery bank you use to draw power from for all of your accessories so there is no fear of you running a battery bank dead and being stranded. For example if your house feed is connected to the port battery switch and you have the port battery switch selected to bank 1 (port bank), should you run the battery dead listening to the radio you can simply start the starboard engine and then select "all" on the port switch. Now the starboard engine will be charging the port battery bank, bringing the house system back to life and allowing you to start the port engine.
In order for the system to work it is important that all of the battery and engine grounds be connected together in a central point (a common buss bar).
Dont forget that you cannot switch battery switches while the engines are running.
The pedal has generally four functions:
1) Forward and back on the pedal make the motor go left and right (push forward to turn the motor right, push back to turn it left)
2) Momentary power - the little 'button' towards the top will engage the motor as long as you press down on it.
3) Selector Swith - on the side of the foot pedeal there is a switch with the following settings Con - Off - Mom (Continuous - keeps the motor going all the time, Off - well it's off and Mom - will only go when you press the momentary button).
4) Speed select - the knob on the left controlls how fast the motor goes.
It takes some getting used to but offers tremendous control and hands free operation!
If a boat is anything like a car, the amp's negative post should not be connected to the battery, but to the ground of the boat. In a car, the entire chassis is grounded to the negative terminal, so when you run a line from the positive terminal of the battery to the positive post on the amp, and a line from the negative post on the amp to the chassis it is a complete circuit. I highly recommend placing a fuse on the positive line from the battery to the amp. Wiring this way prevents the amp from blowing up your battery, as well as prevents the battery from blowing your amp. Hope it works.
Thanks for your question! I'm sorry that you haven't received an answer yet. The response rate on FixYa FREE questions is usually over 80%, but sometimes questions go un-answered when: 1. the question is unclear, incomplete, or poorly worded... 2. the question is mis-categorized - so the correct experts aren't viewing it... 3. the question requires an answer for something that cannot be explained online adequately... 4. specific training, tools, or equipment are required to avoid injury or death... 5. the Experts that are online simply don't have the resources to answer your question fully... Please feel free to re-work your question if you feel one of these may be the reason. Of course you are not required - but converting your question to a PAID one usually increases the reply rate as well. Normal rates for FixYa are... $ 9.99 answer for one question. $12.99 Live Real-Time online chat or premium e-mail support. $29.99 Live Real Time phone support Sometimes FixYa will run specials for unlimited questions via monthly subscription or reduced rates for limited periods.
the savings that can be had when an informed Expert can save you a $100
service call, or a $350 trip to the car dealership. Your problem solved - guaranteed! Or your money back!!
you don't want to pay - feel free to re-submit your question so it
returns back to the top of the work queue if you still need help.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for helping with your FREE question
The ground and neutral are bonded until a source power is sensed by the machine, then they separate.(pg 24 in your manual). The problem is that the GFI receptacle is faster then the xantrex.
One solution is to run the 2 ground wires thru a HEAVY DUTY momentary push button that DISCONNECTS, before it ties into your ground bar on your boat. Hold the button down as you plug in to the dock, count to ten and let it go. The internal bonding will have had plenty of time to separate. If you find a better way....... let me know too.
After testing everything out, I went out and bought the new Eagle Cuda 300 model. I hooked that up and made sure it worked, then tried the Cuda 242 unit on the new transducer. That did it, it worked fine. The problem was a bad transducer. Might have been that -30 deg weather last winter, I'm taking that off the boat this winter. Transducer cost about $50-$60, new Cuda 300 cost about $80.