Question about Air Tools & Compressors
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Assuming that you are wiring for 115v. Lets start with the ground. The cord that attaches to the wall outlet will have three wires, green, black , and white. Insert the cord thru one of the openings of the pressure switch and attach the green wire to the ground screw. Next look very closely at the contacts and notice that they are arrainged in pairs. There is a small brass bar with two contacts that completes the circuit for each line. Start with L1 and attach white wire from cord, then attach white wire from motor to the screw terminal that small brass bar bridges to (should be T1). Next attach black wire from cord to L2 and black wire from motor to remining screw. Remember that the small brass bar with two contacts is the bridge and simply connects white to white and black to black. Enjoy
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
SOURCE: cut off switch problem
The pressure switch will trip off when the compressor reaches the rated setting (usually 120 ~150psi). If the compressor keeps running untill the safety pops releasing air (usually about 160psi) then the switch is most likely problem. I use SquareD switch from WWW.Grainger.com. However if the compressor keeps running but never pops the safety and only reaching around 90 to 100psi, then you could have several other issues including: leaking fittings (check with soapy water), worn cylinder and piston (on oilfree compressor examine cylinder from below and look for scratches), leaking valves on oil type compressor. Please email with your finding and any questions Good Luck
Posted on Jan 28, 2009
1)Let your unit pump up.
2)Turn it off.
3)Find the supply line from the pump to the tank.
4)Remove the supply line from the pump head.
5a)If you hear air coming from the tank you have a bad check valve.
5b)If you do not hear air coming from the tank, you have a leaky
Posted on Feb 02, 2009
Usually, a leak at the pressure switch unloader valve is caused by the checkvalve in the tank. The unloader valve at the pressure switch bleeds out the air from discharge tube after compressor reaches set pressure. This only takes a few seconds. If air continues to leak then air is leaking back into the discharge tube past the tank checkvalve. Follow the air discharge line from the compressor to the brass valve at the tank. The brass valve is the checkvalve that holds the pressure in the tank. There are usually two connections at this valve. One is the unloader tube to the pressure switch. Simple test for leaking checkvalve, with pressure in tank unplug or switch off the compressor and remove the small unloader line at the checkvalve(brass valve) and look/listen for leak. If leaking, remove the checkvalve and examine seat/check for debris keeping the valve slightly open. If it cannot be cleaned, order generic replacement from www.grainger.com. It will cost less than the factory checkvalve. Just pay attention to the thread sizes for easy fit. Good Luck on your repair and email if you have questions.
Posted on Mar 25, 2009
SOURCE: breaker relay tripping out
If the unloading valve trips , which i think is the safety valve that tells me the compressor is pumping up past its maximum allowed pressure. that black switch should be the overload switch. check the amps of the wires going to the motor while its running and then look at the name plate of the motor to see the maximum amount of amps that the motor is allowed to draw.
Posted on Jul 21, 2009
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