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Re: need to adjust on and off steeings
Usually you cannot do this... but this is what an air regulator is for. Using the regulator, you can set the desired working air pressure required for your task, despite the ON and OFF settings of the compressor.
Use your regulator (or fit one) to lower working pressure of the air.
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2 possible actions to have to get what can blow off. 1. there is something dirt or corrosion in the check valve if its blows out on the pressure relief valve its under on the black hoseline right on the pressure switch point 2 . it can also be the safety valve will open if the pressure is adjust set to high. or like CONTIMAC compressors has often this problem. 8 bar safety valve on a 8 bar adjusting is very tight taken on factory then you will lower the adjustment to over 7bar max thats most times the max presure for airtools !! or replace a good choice with 11 bar = 159.5418 psi safety valve if thats the point .then its solved.
Another fix in an failure when is when there are metal parts are used there can be metal parts come of out of a membrane or another metal part that and come between the check-valve on the tank where you must clean the metal pieces the relief of the pressure switch remains on a rusty metal particle in the non-return valve
A regulator controls the pressure in the air line leaving the compressor and does not affect when the compressor turns on or off.
The pressure switch monitors the pressure in the tank and turns the compressor motor on and off when the switch closes or opens in response to changes in the tank pressure. If the compressor does not shut off, it is possible the pressure switch has been set to a pressure level that is higher than the compressor is capable of attaining, thus it does not shut off.
The compressor is capable of developing 150 psi and is noted as having a "120 psi cut-in pressure". When you say it doesn't shut off, does that mean it will generate 150 psi or more of pressure and fails to shut off or it develops less than 150 psi and does not shut off.
If the compressor does not generate 150 psi, then it is probably somewhat worn out and not capable of developing enough pressure to meet the factory high pressure limit. I would try adjusting the pressure switch upper pressure limit down to 130 psi or less (less if the compressor will not develop 130 psi) and see if this solves your problem If it doesn't,
If the compressor will develop 150 psi or more, then try adjusting the high pressure limit to less than 150 psi. If you can't adjust the high pressure limit then the pressure switch is defective and needs to be replaced.
There are many different brands of pressure switch each having a different configeration as to setting. I would suggest to look under the switch cover for instructions or model mumber, then google for instructions for that particular model. I generally find that adjustment does not solve the problem (if you are trying to correct a problem). Example: Compressor never reaches cut-out pressure (problem with pump/cylinder/valves). Compressor set at 200psi cut-out from the factory and you would like to lower to say 125. Regulator no longer works so you need to lower pressure. If you post your exact issue, I may be able to suggest a long term solution. If your compressor is several years old, I would suggest replacing the switch with new in the pressure range desired. It has been my experience that once you change the settings from factory, the switch usually never works correctly because the factory uses different springs to achieve settings and use adjustment to fine tune + - few lbs. Good luck with your repair project.
There is no adjustment on the relief valve. They are preset at the factory. You might have a problem with the pressure shut off being set too high on the upper limit causing the pop off to activate before the motor shuts off.
That would depend on the type of pressure control switch it had on it, but all of the ones I've ever seen have it near the high pressure adjuster under the pressure switch cover- VERY HIGH VOLTAGES- RISK OF INJURY OR DEATH- UNDER PRESSURE SWITCH COVER WITH UNIT STILL CONNECTED TO POWER-
On the common switch used (A condore mdr 5) the differential is adjusted by DEPRESSING the nob & turning it.
On MDR 4 the adjuster is directly behind the high pressure adjuster. it is a flat bladed screw attached to a spring-screw in to increase cut in pressure.
You can also get pressure switches with a higher cut in pressure.
In Australia from a company called Ross Brown Sales in N.S.W
do you mean the relief valve. it is factory set for your safety and the sefety of the equiptment. also known as the safety relief valve.
if you are talking about working pressure you need to adjust that with the air regulator.
if you are talking the cut out pressure sensor, again this is also factory set for safety. if your equiptment is designed for 110 psi then when your resivor reaches that set point it should cut the motor off and stop running.
The adjustment for "Cut-In" and "Cut Out" can be found under the pressure switch cover, if available. Some switches are sealed to prevent tampering that might compromise safety. If you remove the cover you will see the four electrical connections and one or two screws with springs under them. Most times if the adjustments are accessible you will find a set of instructions under the switch cover. One screw will adjust both the "Cut-In/Cut-Out" pressure and one to adjust the "Cut-Out" pressure only.
However you need to remember some important issues regarding these adjustments. The first is that the "Cut-In/Cut-Out" pressure is set at the factory and is set there for a reason. The only reason to change these is because over time the adjustments can change or you are installing a new switch. The other thing to remember is that the safety relief valve is set just above the "Cut-Out" psi. So any meaningful increase will only trigger the safety valve.
If you need to readjust your compressor back to factory settings make sure you do it with small adjustments. 1/4 to 1/2 turn of the screws. Run the compressor and check both the "Cut-In" and "Cut Out" psi setting before making another adjustment.
If your pump is shutting off before it reaches it's max psi. then you need to adjust you switch. Under the black case there are two adjustment screws. One is the high\low adjustment, the other is high pressure cut off. The first will change when the pump turns on and off for your low psi setting and the high setting simultaneously. The second will allow you to raise or lower just the high setting. There should be a diagram under the black cap to show which is which. Adjust the high side only and just a 1\4 turn then run the compressor and see if that takes care of the high setting.
Generally, the pressure switch is not adjusted more than once or twice in the life of the compressor since the discharge pressure can be adjusted with pressure regulator. However the life of the compressor can be increased if lower pressure settings are maintained. Your pressure switch was set at the factory to a setting of about 120 - 150. If your cutout pressure is higher than 150 surely lower.
STEP 1: Turn Main Calibration Screw ( center screw with large spring) clockwise to increase pressure and turn counter-clockwise to decrease pressure.
STEP 2: Turn Differential Pressure Screw (small spring) clockwise to decrease cut-in pressure and turn counter-clockwise to increase cut-in pressure.
Differential Pressure is defined as the difference between cut-out and cut-in pressure. There should be about 7 to 12 psi difference between cut-out and cut-in. In our shop we rarely adjust more than a couple of turns because these switches are sensitive. Good Luck and please post again if you have other concerns about your compressor.