Question about Whirlpool GEQ9800L Electric Dryer

4 Answers

My dryer will not heat up. I have changed the fuse & checked the coils. I was told to check to see if I was getting voltage to the wires that lead to the coils. I thought maybe the thermostat or the heating element were the problem. Now, I'm tolad that a bad timer may be the problem. Since the timer is a very costly item, I was looking for a second opinion.

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  • teamtallman Mar 12, 2009

    Model# GEQ9800LG0



    I have checked all of the wires going to the heating element as suggested by a local dealer. I did not get and voltage out of the upper wire when removed from the unit. I was told to check them while they were still attached would give me a false reading since they are both attached.

  • teamtallman Mar 12, 2009

    The lower wire shows no reading on my volt meter. I tried the breakers after I changed the fuse. Does the lower(solid red) wire indicate the timer??

  • teamtallman Mar 12, 2009

    The one that is directly connected to the heating element

  • steve
    steve May 11, 2010

    1. Verify 220 volts at the terminal block where the cord attaches.

    2. Verify 110v from each leg to neutral at the terminal block.

    3. Inspect all wires at the terminal block for a broken or burned wire.

    4. With all wires attached to their corresponding parts do the following;

    open the bottom panel of the dryer.

    turn the timer to a time dry heat setting.

    start the dryer.

    with the volt meter set to 220 plus volts.

    touch each meter lead to the dryer heater terminals.

    If no voltage is read, do the following.

    Unplug the dryer.

    Set the volt meter for continuity.

    Pull the 2 wires off the heater.

    touch one meter lead to one heater terminal, touch the other meter lead to the other terminal.

    If you get a reading...good.

    then touch one lead to a heater terminal and the other lead to the heater canister.

    then touch the other heater terminal and the canister.

    if you get a continuity reading on either...the heater is bad.

    replace the heater wires to the heater.

    On the left side of the heater canister...unplug the thermostat wires.

    touch the meter leads to the 2 thermostat terminals.

    no reading...bad thermostat.

    a reading is a good thermostat.

    replace the thermostat wires.

    just behind the thermostat is the thermal fuse.

    remove both wires from the thermal fuse.

    touch the meter leads to the 2 thermal fuse terminals.

    no reading is bad.

    a reading is good.

    after you complete these test, get back to me for the next step.

  • steve
    steve May 11, 2010

    What is your model number and exactly what have you checked and how did you check it?

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4 Answers

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  • Contributor
  • 45 Answers

Yes their is one other thing you can try, you are right about the timers!, but i don't believe this is your problem! sounds to me you have a bad HIGH limit switch , you see these switches are used to protect the heating element's from becoming to hot and when they do become hot they act like a thermostat and open their self till things cool down and then they re close and let the electricity go on to the heating element, their may be two, you can find them inside the dryer around the drum, when you remove the outer dryer housing and locate these limits, get a continuity tester, make sure the power is off, and see if you have continuity between the two terminals on the limit, their should only be two wires attached to these limits,if their is no continuity replace them. things that make these go bad is, not cleaning the filter after each use and a stoped up or almost stoped up vent. hope we helped and good luck to u..

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

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Did you check to make sure you didnt blow one ckt breaker and one is still hot? happened to me once and it was only runnin on 110...still turns the drum but no heat. good luck hope to help

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

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  • Whirlpool Master
  • 3,361 Answers

The solid red wire comes from the motor not the timer.
The motor has to be running to test power at the heater.

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

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  • 163 Answers

Could be timer or motor switch.check all connections and terminal ends to make sure they are in good shape.but both are costly.i would check breaker flip it on and off and see if it works.they will run whe breaker trips but wont heat.also you can turn breaker off and take cover off to make sure all connections are good.take cover off end that electrical cord and make sure all connections are good.that is about all other options.good luck

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

  • mike cooksey Mar 12, 2009

    are you checking wire on motor or timer?

  • mike cooksey Mar 12, 2009

    yes it could be timer.

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Dryer turns but no heat


Hi Mike
Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Bud

Oct 10, 2013 | Kenmore 64852 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

All parts are moving but there is no heat. I can't figure out how to get to the heating element to replace it. I was told that it was in the back but after removing all of the back screws only the top...


Hi sndysalem...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me thumbs up

Sep 14, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

13 year old Whirlpool dryer blew thermal fuse. Bypassed to test and found that when door is wide open, dryer heats up to normal temperature. When I close the door, the heat automatically goes way down to...


Hi JWillett06...
My thoughts are to change the door switch...
Check out some of the solutions below...
****************************************************
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me thumbs up

Sep 14, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

I have an LG DLE8377NM electric dryer that is spinning great and even blowing air great, but no heat. I read that it could be the heating element, thermostat, thermal cut out switch or it isnt getting...


You will use an ohm meter across the two terminals where the cord attaches to the dryer, and also read the receptical to make sure 220v is getting to the dryer...one hot lead to ground should read 110/120v.
When both leads read 110/120v then that is your 220v.
Here is a little more info for you:

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Dec 27, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore elite elec dryer, 110.64972300. runs no heat


Pull one wire off the element and start the dryer in a heat cycle . Check power from that wire to the cabinet . Touch the meter to the terminal you pulled that wire off of , and check that voltage . You cannot get correct voltage by checking across the element . Trace the wire NOT getting 120 volts . It will either go to the timer or motor . It will lead you to the problem .

Apr 28, 2010 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

The dryier runs but stop heating


Check the red wire coming in from the timer to the motor switch to see if you have power there. If you have power going into the motor but not out to the heater you need a new motor.

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2 Answers

Drying Machine Problem


Hi..

If your dryer is not drying,

Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating elementOften a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.


Regards
PCmania



Jul 16, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

2 Answers

My Kenmore electric dryer runs but no heat ....


Before I wish you luck i want you to review all of the possible reasons for your problem

If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

May 29, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

GE Dryer Mod DDE8040l heater coils


Check your voltage to the dryer, make sure you have the required 220 volts. If you are only getting 110 volts the dryer would run but not heat. So check the breaker or fuse box first,, then check the plug for proper voltage, then the terminal block to make sure you do not have a wired burned off.. after that it would most likely a high limit thermostat. Good luck. I hope this will fixYa. and dont forget to rate me. Thanks
Mike

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