In our basement where the freezer is located, there was a lot of white mist in the air. Our freezer no longer works. The fan is on and light but no cooling. It is only four months old. Could all of the coolent have leaked out?
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Make sure everything is clean of debris and I would personally see if you could cool the area around the unit. Maybe use a fan or turn the air down in that room. Humidity and hot temps kill a unit's sealed system.
Ventilation is the key here. I have had the same issue with my upright freezer in my conservatory (Which gets stupidly hot).
Make sure that there is good air circulation around the unit and that the cooling matrix is clean and dust free. Beyond that, you may find that a desk fan pointed at the cooling matrix to increase the air circulation may help - It has helped with mine, though I suspect that in the end, I'm going to have to move it to a cooler place.
The first thing to check is the condenser coil at the bottom of the freezer. Take the slatted front cover off at the bottom where the compressor is located. You will see the conderser coils. This looks like a radiator with aluminum fins, about 16 by 16 inches square. Be sure the coils are clean. Since the compressor is close to the floor it pulls a lot of dust into the coils. You may need to take a long stiff bristle brush to get as much dust as possible off the coils. If this is stopped up, the unit will definately overheat very quickly. While you are down there make sure the fan behind the coils is running. There are several reasons the fan might stop running. The motor can burn out, something can impede the fan blades such as paper, or sometimes rodents. If the fan isn't running the compressor will overheat and shut off. Once you check these basic things, you may then have to address the problem of dissapating the heat. The answer to your question is yes, it will shut down if it gets too hot. You need plenty of air space behind and over the unit in your situation. The air needs to flow into the front bottom section of this unit and flow freely out the back. All commercial refrigeration is designed to operate in 75 degree areas. As your room temperature increases the efficiency of the freezer will decrease. It is not uncommon to find these units in kitchens where the temperature is 85 even 90 degrees. They will continue to work, but will probably run all the time. I would think if you could get 3 to 4 inches of space at the back of the unit and the two feet above the unit with clean coils and properly running fans, you should get better results. You MUST have free flowing air to keep the unit running. The ideal situation is to have the air flow directly through from front to the back of the compressor compartment. In your case, you may have to move the freezer away from the back wall and allow the air to flow up the back of the freezer and out over the top into the room. 2 inch holes are not enough.
If you have never defrosted it before, leave it off for a lot lot longer, doors open in a warm area. Is the fan working when you close the door ?(or hold the door switch in), if not, there could be a problem with the condenser fan), otherwise 90% of the time, they are frosted up internally, and because of good insulation, need time to "warm up" inside, in order to defrost
Coils are probably underneath. remove the grille at the front (usually you just rotate it down to pull off) and then vaccum inside with a wand. If there aren't any coils there either, pull the machine out from the wall, and remove the lower panel from the back side. Inside you should find a fan next to a coil. Make sure that fan is working, and if it isn't make sure it is getting power.
Vacuum out as good as you can, and if you can use compressed air to blow it clean, even better (vacuum first because it will kick out a lot of dust).
If vacuuming the coils doesn't work, then you probably have a freon leakage problem, in which case it is probably not worth the cost of repair.
The evaporator fan in the back of the freezer blows over the cooling
coils. Those coils are typically hidden from view behind a panel.
The problem you describe would lead me to suspect that the coils are
iced over. That is why there is some cold, but not enough. The fan is
blowing over a block of ice. An overfilled freezer is another
Iced over coils may be the result of a malfunctioning defrost system, a
plugged drain tube, a poor seal on the door seals to the cabinet
resulting in a lot of moist air entering the freezer (or fridge) or the
refrigerant level is under pressure (needs more refrigerant added).
Most refrigerators never need refrigerant added, but after 25 years, it
could be that yours does. However, it can only be done by a pro, and it
probably isn't worth investing that kind of money in such an old fridge.
I recommend you start by unplugging the fridge and inspecting the coils
inside the freezer. If they aren't iced over, then the door seals may
be still be the problem by letting in warm air.
The thermostat may have shorted out so that it is no longer making contact to put power to the compressor. After drying out the components try bypassing the thermostat and see if it will start or make any sound whatsoever. If it does start and run with the thermostat bypassed replace the thermostat. 4-6 inches of water can also get to the relay on the compressor. Replacing the relay and over load assembly also be a good idea.
Sounds like the freezer evapurator fan... they make noise on and off at times when bears are wore... Thats about the only thing that can make noise inthe area ur talking about.. if noise comes back listen where the freezer fan is.. is most liklly the problem